物理海洋學教學大綱課程名稱（中文）：物理海洋學課程名稱（英文）譯名：PhysicalOceanography課程對象：海洋科學專業(yè)本科生(物理海洋方向)先修課程要求：流體力學、概率論與數(shù)理統(tǒng)計、數(shù)學物理方法一、教學目的：為海洋科學專業(yè)學生進入物理海洋方向研究打好基礎(chǔ)。二、本課程的地位、作用和任務(wù)本課程為物理海洋方向?qū)W生之專業(yè)必修課,旨在使學生系統(tǒng)地掌握物理海洋學的基本理論及其發(fā)展的全貌，了解當前國內(nèi)處已達到的水平和今后發(fā)展的方向。要求學生掌握動力海洋（溫、鹽、密、浪潮、流）的基本概念和運動變化的基本規(guī)律，學會分析研究海洋動力現(xiàn)象的基本思路和方法。三、教學內(nèi)容和教學基本要求Chapter1:AVoyageofDiscovery主要內(nèi)容：PhysicsoftheOceanChapter2:TheHistoricalSetting主要內(nèi)容：Definitions，MilestonesintheUnderstandingoftheOcean，EvolutionofsomeTheoreticalIdeas，TheRoleofObservationsinOceanography重點：海洋史的劃分、鄭和下西洋Chapter3:ThePhysicalSetting主要內(nèi)容：OceansandSeas，DimensionsoftheOceans，BathymetricFeatures，MeasuringtheDepthoftheOcean，BathymetricChartsandDataSets，SoundintheOcean。Chapter4:AtmosphericInfluences主要內(nèi)容：TheEarthinSpace，AtmosphericWindSystems，ThePlanetaryBoundaryLayer，MeasurementofWind，TheSamplingProbleminScatterometry，WindStress重點：大氣準三環(huán)模式。Chapter5:TheOceanicHeatBudget53主要內(nèi)容：TheOceanicHeatBudget，Heat-BudgetTerms，DirectCalculationofFluxes，IndirectCalculationofFluxes:BulkFormulas，GlobalDataSetsforFluxes，GeographicDistributionofTerms，MeridionalHeatTransport，MeridionalFreshWaterTransport，VariationsinSolarConstant。重點：大氣圈的熱量收支。Chapter6:Temperature,Salinity,andDensity主要內(nèi)容：DefinitionofSalinity，DefinitionofTemperature，GeographicalDistribution，TheOceanicMixedLayerandThermocline。難點：位密度、位溫、中性層。Chapter7:TheEquationsofMotion107主要內(nèi)容：DominantForcesforOceanDynamics，CoordinateSystem，TypesofFlowintheocean，ConservationofMassandSalt，TheTotalDerivative(D/Dt)，MomentumEquation，ConservationofMass，TheContinuityEquation，SolutionstotheEquationsofMotion。Chapter8:EquationsofMotionWithViscosity主要內(nèi)容：TheInfluenceofViscosity，Turbulence，CalculationofReynoldsStress，Stability，MixingintheOcean。難點：eddyviscosityChapter9:ResponseoftheUpper主要內(nèi)容：InertialMotion，EkmanLayerattheSeaSurface，EkmanMassTransports，ApplicationofEkmanTheory。難點：Ekman’ssolutionChapter10:GeostrophicCurrents主要內(nèi)容：HydrostaticEquilibrium，GeostrophicEquations，SurfaceGeostrophicCurrentsFromAltimetry，GeostrophicCurrentsFromHydrography，CurrentsFromHydrographicSections，LagrangeanMeasurementsofCurrents，EulerianMeasurements。難點：barotropicandbaroclinicfcurrentsChapter11:WindDrivenOceanCirculation主要內(nèi)容：Sverdrup’sTheoryoftheOceanicCirculation，WesternBoundaryCurrents，Munk’sSolution，ObservedCirculationintheAtlantic。難點：Sverdrup’sTheoryoftheOceanicCirculation，WesternBoundaryCurrents，Munk’sSolutionChapter12:VorticityintheOcean主要內(nèi)容：DefinitionsofVorticity，ConservationofVorticity，VorticityandEkmanPumping。難點：derivationofpotentialvorticityanditsapplicationChapter13:DeepCirculationintheOcean主要內(nèi)容：ImportanceoftheThermohalineCirculation，TheoryfortheThermohalineCirculation，ObservationsoftheDeepCirculation，AntarcticCircumpolarCurrent。難點：TheoryfortheThermohalineCirculationChapter14:EquatorialProcesses主要內(nèi)容：EquatorialProcesses難點：KelvinandRossbywavesChapter15:NumericalModels主要內(nèi)容：Introduction–SomeWordsofCaution，NumericalModelsinOceanography，SimulationModels，Primitive-EquationModels，CoastalModels，AssimilationModels，CoupledOceanandAtmosphereModels。Chapter16:OceanWaves主要內(nèi)容：LinearTheoryofOceanSurfaceWaves，Nonlinearwaves，WavesandtheConceptofaWaveSpectrum，Ocean-WaveSpectra，WaveForecasting，MeasurementofWaves。難點：gravitationalsurfacewaveChapter17:CoastalProcessesandTides主要內(nèi)容：ShoalingWavesandCoastalProcesses，Tsunamis，StormSurges，TheoryofOceanTides，TidalPrediction。難點：tidalpotential四、教學時數(shù)的分配表章學時章學時121142412434134461445615464166761