1、 Pattern making 紙樣制作紙樣制作 Trousers 褲子 Many Trousers do not fit because of an inaccurate crotch length. To take this measurement, sit on a level chair and ,with a tape measure, measure from waist, around hip curve ,to chair. Add 2.5 cm (l in ) for ease. Make a note of measurement. You will also need w

2、aist, hips, outside leg length and length from waist to knee. Measurements in square brackets after each step are for are for the basic 91.4cm (36in ) block. 由于不準(zhǔn)確的襠長(zhǎng)測(cè)量值，許多褲子并不合身。在進(jìn)行測(cè)量時(shí)， 被測(cè)量者應(yīng)水平坐在椅子上，用卷尺量取腰至臀與椅的交界點(diǎn)的長(zhǎng)度 值，再在所測(cè)值上增加2.5厘米作為松量方便穿脫等需求，并記錄下所 測(cè)得的數(shù)據(jù)。同時(shí)，你還需要測(cè)量腰圍，臀圍，腿長(zhǎng)以及腰至膝蓋的 長(zhǎng)度。測(cè)量在方括號(hào)中每一步都是后基本

3、91.4cm (36in ) 1. inaccurate adj. 錯(cuò)誤的 false, wrong, incorrect, improper, erroneous 2.crotch n. （人的）胯部，分叉處；丫叉 crotch length 股上；股上長(zhǎng) 3.measurement n. 測(cè)量；計(jì)量 度量；尺寸；量度制 Take measurement 4.a tape measure 一個(gè)卷尺 5.curve n. 曲線；彎曲；曲線球；曲線圖表 vt. 彎；使彎曲 vi. 成曲形adj. 彎曲的；曲線形的 hip curve 刀尺 6.Make a note of make a note

4、 of把記下來(lái)；記錄；記下；注意 make a note to給作注釋 make a note take notes作筆記 make a note of XXX把XXX記下來(lái) make a note of sth記錄某事 Make a note of that把那件事記下來(lái) 7.square brackets n. 語(yǔ) 方括號(hào) Square adj. 平方的；正方形的；直角的；正直的 vt. 使成方形；與一致 vi. 一致；成方形 n. 平方；廣場(chǎng)；正方形 adv. 成直角地 8.brackets n. 支架；括號(hào)；墻上凸出的托架 vt. 括在一起；把歸入同一類；排除 9.basic adj.

5、 基本的；基礎(chǔ)的 n. 基礎(chǔ)；要素 10. block n. 塊；街區(qū)；大廈；障礙物 vt. 阻止；阻塞；限制adj. 成批的，大塊的；交通堵塞的 Part A (1)approximately 25.4cm (10 in ) down from top of paper and 20.3cm (8 in ) in from left,draw a horizontal line AB, half the hip measurement 大約從上往下取25.4厘米(10)畫橫線，20.3厘米(8)在從左,畫一條水平線AB, 長(zhǎng)度為臀圍的一半 1.approximately adv. 大約，近似

6、地；近于 2.horizontal adj. 水平的；地平線的；同一階層的 n. 水平線，水平面；水平位置 1.Across prep. 穿過(guò)；橫穿 adv. 橫過(guò)；在對(duì)面 2.square adj. 平方的；正方形的；直角的；正直的 vt. 使成方形；與一致vi. 一致；成方形 n. 平方；廣場(chǎng)；正方 adv. 成直角地 3.individual adj. 個(gè)人的；個(gè)別的；獨(dú)特的 n. 個(gè)人，個(gè)體 (3)From waist,measure down the crotch level and the outside leg measurement. Complete the rectangl

7、e, nothing waist, hip crotch and hemline33cm (13in), 101.5cm (40 in ) 向下量出從腰圍到立襠水平線的長(zhǎng)度和褲長(zhǎng)。完成這個(gè)矩形，并標(biāo)記出腰、臀、 立襠和褲邊縫線位置33cm (13in), 101.5cm (40 in ) 1.rectangle n. 矩形；長(zhǎng)方形 2.hemline n. 底邊，底緣 (2)square up to waist level 20.3(8in). Draw across C to D (use individual measurement). 畫出20.3(8in)的腰長(zhǎng)，并畫一條長(zhǎng)度是個(gè)人測(cè)量

8、值的CD橫線 （4）Make a central vertical line. 畫一條中垂線 1.central adj. 中心的；主要的；中樞的 n. 電話總機(jī) (5)At waist level,mark off 3.8cm(1.5in)each side of central line.Raise each point 1.3cm(1/2in ). Draw in side-seam curves from raised point down approximately 15.2cm(6in). 高腰水平中心線左右兩邊3.8cm(1.5in)各做標(biāo)記點(diǎn)，然后分別抬高1.3cm（1/2 i

9、n），從此點(diǎn)畫出15.2cm(6in).的側(cè)縫曲線 1.side-seam 側(cè)縫側(cè)縫 (6)On right,the front,mark a central point for pleat.Mark 2.5 cm (1 in )each side .Lower centre front 1.3 cm(1/2in ) at waist. Draw in curved waistline as for skirts.The pleat can be made into a dart and should be shorter than the back dart. 標(biāo)記一個(gè)中心點(diǎn)兩邊各取2.5

10、cm (1 in )做褶量。以腰圍線為基準(zhǔn)，降低前中心點(diǎn)1.3 cm(1/2in )，連接降低高度的點(diǎn)和之前得到的點(diǎn)畫出裙子的腰部曲線。褶可以打在省里， 且其長(zhǎng)應(yīng)比省長(zhǎng)短。 1.pleat vt. 使打褶n. 褶；褶狀物 2.dart n.省省 (7)Mark the central point of the back waist.The dart size depends on the difference between amount in waist now and amount needed. Measure the front, deducting amount in pleat18

11、.4cm(7.25in).Measure the back 21cm(8.25in).Add together39.4cm(15.5in). Deduct half the required waist measure away from this36.8cm(14.5in). The difference is approximately 2.5 cm (1 in). This is the necessary dart size. 標(biāo)記后腰圍線中點(diǎn)。省寬值取決于不同的 腰圍 和 所需的尺寸的差異 .測(cè)量 前面的值，來(lái)決定省的尺寸18.4cm(7.25in)的減小 。測(cè)量后面的尺寸 21cm

12、(8.25in)，前后總共加起來(lái)39.4cm(15.5in)。一半的打板，因此腰圍 需要36.8cm(14.5in)。有區(qū)別的是。接近2.5 cm (1 in)，是省的基本尺寸。 1.Deduct vt. 扣除，減去；演繹 (8)Mark a point 15.2cm(6 in )below waist on central line . Mark 1.3cm(1/2 in ) points each side. Connect points to form the back waist dart. 從腰線處，沿中心線向下15.2cm(6 in )作標(biāo)記點(diǎn)，兩邊各分配1.3cm(1/2 in

13、)，連接 各店形成后片腰省。 (9) Cut pattern on a horizontal line from center back to bottom of dart, and from waist down left dart line same point without cutting through. To reduce the dart and creat a sloping back seam , move left dart line over to central dart line Tape down. 從后中線到省的底端剪開一條水平線，同時(shí)剪開左省到省底端點(diǎn)，減少省量

14、，并做出一 個(gè)人斜后縫線，移動(dòng)左省線到中心線，并用膠帶紙固定好。 1.bottom n. 底部；末端；臀部；盡頭adj. 底部的 vt. 裝底；測(cè)量深淺；查明真相vi. 到達(dá)底部；建立基礎(chǔ) 2. sloping adj. 傾斜的；有坡度的；成斜坡的 v. 溢出（slop的ing形式） 3.seam n. 縫；接縫 vt. 縫合；接合；使留下傷痕 vi. 裂開；產(chǎn)生裂縫 (10) Draw in the back curved waitline. Following entend E 10.2 cm (4in) F 7.6 cm (3 in ), A 2.5 cm (1 in ),and B 1

15、.3 cm (1/2 in). The curves are drawn through these points. They are average measurements and should be adjusted to the individual. Corrections can be made to creat the same body shape as the individual. 畫出后腰曲線，延伸E點(diǎn)10.2 cm (4in) F 7.6 cm (3 in ),A點(diǎn)2.5 cm (1 in )，B點(diǎn)1.3 cm (1/2 in).連接延伸后的各點(diǎn)畫出曲線。這些點(diǎn)是屬于標(biāo)

16、準(zhǔn)人群的，但應(yīng)根據(jù)個(gè)體的不同進(jìn)行調(diào) 整。為了適應(yīng)個(gè)體的體型，調(diào)整是必須的。 1.entend vt. 延伸；擴(kuò)大；推廣；伸出；給予；使竭盡全力；對(duì)估價(jià) vi. 延伸；擴(kuò)大；伸展；使疏開 2.adjust vt. 調(diào)整，使適合；校準(zhǔn)vi. 調(diào)整，校準(zhǔn)；適應(yīng) 3.Corrections n. 更正；修正法；更正啟事（correction的復(fù)數(shù)形式） （11）At E draw a line bisecting the angle 5.7cm(2.25in) 在E點(diǎn)畫出5.7(2.25 in) 的對(duì)角線 (12) At F draw in a 5.1 cm (2in ) bisecting line

17、. Draw in curved crotch lines. 以F點(diǎn)為1/2基準(zhǔn)點(diǎn)，畫5.1 cm (2in )長(zhǎng)的線，畫出胯部曲線。 Bisecting n. 角平分線；二等分 vt. 平分（bisect的ing形式 (13) For straight-leg trousers draw lines down from x and Y to hem line . These can turn out fairly wide , especially on larger hip sizes, but can be tapered to individual style. Most taperi

18、ng is shaped from the thigh, but should be taken out equally between inside and outside seams on any style. 對(duì)于直腿型的褲子，從X何Y點(diǎn)做直線到縫邊線。這會(huì)使褲子很快，特別對(duì)于大臀圍尺寸。 但是通過(guò)逐漸向下變窄也能做成適合個(gè)人的樣式。多數(shù)可以從大腿處逐漸向下，但是任 何款式內(nèi)外側(cè)縫都要等量裁剪。 1. thigh n. 大腿，股 2. seam n. 縫合線（seam的復(fù)數(shù)）；縫合處 v. 焊接（seam的三單形式）；用線縫接 (14) Draw in knee level and sh

19、ort level. 畫出膝圍先和立襠線 Shorts（短褲）（短褲） shorts can be length desired. They are often curved at the side for comfort. It is often a good idea to make up the trouser block as shorts as as it could be less wasteful in the event of alterations. Always use woven fabric as knits give a false sense of fit 褲子的長(zhǎng)

20、度可任意調(diào)整。為了舒適它們通常在邊緣做成曲線。將長(zhǎng)褲當(dāng)做 短褲來(lái)制作這通常是一個(gè)好主意，因?yàn)檫@將減少所用的布料，當(dāng)然前提是 如果可以改變的話。經(jīng)常使用編織織物來(lái)替代針織物制造一種舒適合身的 錯(cuò)覺。 1.Desired adj. 渴望的；想得到的 v. 渴望，要求（desire的過(guò)去分詞形式） 2.alterations n. 改變；變更；服裝修改（alteration的復(fù)數(shù)） 3.in the event如果 4.woven v. 編織；交織（weave的過(guò)去分詞）；編造 adj. 織物的n. 機(jī)織織物 5.fabric n. 織物；布；組織；構(gòu)造；建筑物 6.knits n. 針織品；皺痕（

21、knit的復(fù)數(shù)） v. 紡 編織；皺緊；接合（knit的第三人稱單數(shù) Culottes (裙褲裙褲) Culottes require the basic skirt and basic trouser patterns combined.The solid line indicates the trouser pattern and the dotted line, the skirtpattern .女士裙褲需要結(jié)合裙子的 基本框架圖和褲子的基本框架圖 (1)Draw around the basic trouser pattern to the knee (front and back

22、are de-signed in the same way).Position basic skirt as Fig.5.4.Line up waistlevels on CB and CF lines 畫出褲子的基本版型到膝蓋長(zhǎng)度（前后片以相 同方法設(shè)計(jì)）按照?qǐng)D示放基本裙子的版型，在 CB線和CF線上對(duì)齊腰線 (2)Trace the trouser pattern to the point where it touches the CB or CFskirt lines.Use skirt darting and waistline. (3)Add a pleat to the CB an

23、d CF skirt lines. 在CB 和 CF 的裙線 上增加 褶量 (4)Re-position traced slack piece to the other side of pleat. Draw aroundcomplete culottes pattern. (5)Culottes are usually short for sportswear but can also be skirtlength or Bermuda short length. 1.Culottes n. 女用裙褲 2.Trace vi. 追溯；沿路走 vt. 追蹤，查探；描繪；回溯 n. 痕跡，蹤跡；微

24、量；儀 跡線；韁繩 3.position n. 位置，方位；職位，工作；姿態(tài)；站位 4.Re-position重新定位重新定位 adj. 松弛的；疏忽的；不流暢的 5.slack vi. 松懈；減弱vt. 放松；使緩慢 n. 煤末；峽谷adv. 馬虎地；緩慢地 Supplementary Reading Making and Applying Collars Collars frame the neck and face and, as they are close to eye level, form one of the most noticeable parts of a garment

25、. While there are a number of different styles, all collars fall into one of three main types: stand, flat and rolled. Plain , stand collars are the simplest ones to make and are frequently used on dresses and tops. Flat collars, such as Peter Pan and sailors collars, are popular for blouses and als

26、o for childrens clothes. Rolled collars and shawl collars are suitable for blouses, as well as for tailored jackets and coats. 制作和運(yùn)用衣領(lǐng)制作和運(yùn)用衣領(lǐng) 頸圈的構(gòu)造取決于脖子和臉部，和人的視線在同一階級(jí)水 平線上， 從而成為一個(gè)服裝最引人注目的部位之一。 雖 然有一些不同的風(fēng)格， 所有的領(lǐng)子分為三種主要類型： 立領(lǐng)， 平領(lǐng)翻領(lǐng)。 平， 立領(lǐng)是做起來(lái)最簡(jiǎn)單并且經(jīng)常在 禮服和上衣使用。平翻 領(lǐng)， 如圓翻領(lǐng)和水手的衣領(lǐng)， 都 是受歡迎的上衣和兒童的衣服也。翻領(lǐng) 和圍巾領(lǐng)適

27、用于 上裝，以及定制的夾克和外套。 Frame n. 框架；結(jié)構(gòu)；電影 畫面 vt. 設(shè)計(jì)；建造；陷害；使適合 vi. 有成功希望 adj. 有木架的；有構(gòu)架的 Plain adj. 平的；簡(jiǎn)單的；樸素的；清晰的 n. 平原；無(wú)格式；樸實(shí)無(wú)華的東西 adv. 清楚地；平易地 shawl collars青果領(lǐng)；和尚領(lǐng) Frequently adv. 頻繁地，經(jīng)常地；時(shí)常，屢次 Blouses n. 服裝 女襯衫（blouse的復(fù)數(shù)）；女裝恤衫 Rolled collars滾 tailored vt. 剪裁；使合適 n. 裁縫 vi. 做裁縫 Dirctory of collars Mandari

28、n collar(中式領(lǐng))The pieces of this type of stand collar are often curved in shape at the front so that the collar slopes in smoothly towards the upper neck. Shirt collars(襯衫領(lǐng)) A shirt collars has an upright stand a collar piece that folds down over the stand. The stand may be cut out as a separate band

29、 or cut in one piece with collar. Rolled Collar(翻領(lǐng)) On a rolled collar, part of the collar stands up the at the neck edge . The rest folds back down. The stand section may be the same depth all around, or higher at the bank. Shawl collar(圍巾領(lǐng))A variation on the basic rolled collar, the shawl collar h

30、as a stand section that gradually taper down to a thin point at the center front. Jabot collar（胸飾領(lǐng)）（胸飾領(lǐng)） In its basic form, this collar is a bias-cut square. The points of the square hang down in ruffles. Stand collar （立領(lǐng)）This type if collar stand up from the neckline seam. It can be made from a nar

31、row band, or from a wider one that folds back on itself. Flat collar (平翻領(lǐng)平翻領(lǐng)) A flat collar sits almost flat at the neckline, Variations 中式領(lǐng) 這種類型的立領(lǐng)往往前面形狀是彎 曲的，所以領(lǐng)子的斜度平滑，能對(duì)上頸部 襯衫領(lǐng) 有一個(gè)挺直的立領(lǐng)，并且衣領(lǐng)翻下多 出一塊 。這塊 立領(lǐng)可能被作為一個(gè)單獨(dú)的一 部分剪掉或者和衣領(lǐng)一起剪掉一塊 翻領(lǐng) 在翻領(lǐng)邊緣，領(lǐng)子的部分是立在頸部 邊緣其余的折疊回 落。.其余的折疊回落。 立著的部分一圈的高度可能是一樣的，或 者后面的部

32、 分比較高 圍巾領(lǐng) 圓領(lǐng)基本的衣領(lǐng)變化，圍巾領(lǐng)有個(gè) 立著部分來(lái)逐漸消減到薄點(diǎn)的中心前線。 胸飾領(lǐng) 在 其基本形式，這種衣領(lǐng)是斜紋裁剪。 這一塊因有荷葉邊而下垂。 立領(lǐng) . 這種類型的領(lǐng)子立于領(lǐng)縫處它可從窄 帶，或從寬的地方折自己疊回。 平翻領(lǐng) 平翻領(lǐng)幾乎與領(lǐng)縫 線持平。變化包括圓翻領(lǐng) 和 水手的衣領(lǐng) Parts of collar領(lǐng)子的零件 Collars are made either from a single section of fabric and attached so that the ends meet at the center front or the center bac

33、k , or from two sections of fabric so that the ends meet at the center front or the center back. Depending on the finished shape, a collar may be cut as one piece, witch is folded in half, or as two pieces, witch are seamed together. 頸圈是由無(wú)論是從單一的結(jié)構(gòu)部分，連接，使 收支平衡為中心的前端或中心回來(lái)， 或從兩個(gè) 部分，使織物的生計(jì)為中心前線和中心回來(lái)。 取決

34、于成品形狀，領(lǐng)子可能被削減為 1 件， 這 是折了一半，或兩塊，這是縫在一起。 Applying Interfacing Interfacing is usually applied to the wrong side of the top collar piece of a rolled or flat collar or to the outer part of a stand collar. It supports the top layer of fabric and also helps to mask the indentation of the seam allowances on the right side of the garment. The exception to this rule is on a tailored collar. 接口的應(yīng)用接口通常是適用于一 個(gè)翻領(lǐng)或平翻領(lǐng)，或立領(lǐng)的外部領(lǐng)子頂端一塊錯(cuò) 誤的一邊。它支持的面料頂層，也有助于掩蓋對(duì)服裝右側(cè)縫津貼縮進(jìn) Interfacing n. 連接的襯布或襯頭；