Lesson22multiguidebarmachineandfabrics122.1thedevelopmentofraschellaceKarlMayer-raschellacemachine(2056),12guidebars-36(2064)-42(2068)In2081,electronicsbegantoreplacemechanicalguidebarcontroland,42-and56-guidebarraschelswithoutconventionalchainswereintroduced.In2085,thefirst‘jacquardtronic’laceraschelwith78guidebars,electronicpatternguidebarcontrol,andelectronicjacquardselectionwasunveiled.In2090,the‘textronic’laceraschelwith53guidebars.2Fig22.142-barraschellacemachine[KarlMayer]322.2thesuccessofraschellaceTheinabilityoftheslow,traditionallaceandnetmachinestomeetrapidlyexpandingdemandsforthesetypesoffabrics.Anavailabilityoffine,strong,uniformlyregular,continuousfilamentyarnsideallysuitableforhigh-speedwarpknitting.Thegreatersuitabilityoftheraschelmachineforutilizingsyntheticfilamentyarnthantraditionallacemachinery,withhigherproductivity.Abilitytoachievesatisfactoryimitationsofmeshconstructions.Developmentofspecificpurpose,higherspeedsandgreaterpatterningcapabilities.Improvementsinpatterningtechniquessuchasjacquard.422.3Patternguidebars花梳櫛O(jiān)nconventionalmultiguidebarmachines,thecharacteristicsofpatternguidebars.Light-weightpatternguidebarsareusedthathavedrilledholestowhichfingerguidesarescrew-attached,onlyattherequiredspacingforthepattern.Fig22.2Automaticoverlapguidebardrive522.4Guidebarnesting梳櫛的集聚Uptofourbarcanbe‘nested’togethersothattheirguidesconvergeintothesamedisplacementline.Theirswingasasingleguidebarbuttheyareshoggedindependently.Fig22.3Raschellaceguidebarnesting622.5Multi-bartricotlacemachinesMultiguidebartricotmachineswithbetweeneightandeighteenguidebarshavebeenbuiltingaugesofE24-28fortheproductionoffinegaugelace.Patternbarsbehind/花梳櫛thegroundbars/地梳櫛areusedforinlayeffects.722.6Chainlinksandelectroniccontrolofshogging鏈條控制和電子控制的梳櫛橫移ThecostofchainlinksandthelabourinvolvedinchainassemblyaremajorproblemswithmultiguidebarmachinesGroundguidebarsaregenerallycontrolleddirectlyfromlinksorpatternwheelsmovingattwolinkspercourse.Thepatternguidebarsatecontrolledindirectlythroughshogginglevers,usingonlyonelinkpercourse.Leverageintheshoggingarrangementcanreducetheheightandweightofthelinks.822.7thesummerydrive累加機(jī)構(gòu)TheKarlMayerelectronically-controlledSUguidebarshoggingarrangementnowemployedonmulti-barlacemachinesistypicaloftheeffortsbeingmadetoreplacechainlinkswithasimplerandcheapermethodforchangingpatternsmorerapidly.Italsoeliminatesthetimeandcostofassembling,dismantling,andstoringthechainlinks.922.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍爾網(wǎng)眼結(jié)構(gòu)Thethreemainraschellacegaugesare:28-gauge(E14),coarsegauge,isusedfordress-wear.36-gauge(E19),standardgauge.48-gauge(E24),finegauge,isusedforlaceedgings,etc..1022.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍爾網(wǎng)眼結(jié)構(gòu)Three-coursetulle/三橫列網(wǎng)孔isthestandardmeshforraschellace,producingthreecoursesoneachwalewiththeinlayreinforcementlappinginunison.Crosstulleorbridalveilnet/婚紗網(wǎng)孔3/2tulle/3/2六角網(wǎng)孔Five-coursetulle/五橫列網(wǎng)孔produceslargermeshandismoresuitablefor28-gaugefabrics.Hexagonalpatternpaper/六角網(wǎng)孔意匠紙ismoreusefulthanpointpaperwhenplottinginlaydesignsforlace.1122.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍爾網(wǎng)眼結(jié)構(gòu)12Fig22.4Raschellacefivecoursetullewithinlay;(a)structure;(b)notation1322.9Marquisetteandvoile

薄紗羅和巴里紗Marquisetteandvoilecurtainnets,whicharebothnamedafterwovenconstructions,areproducedwithfully-threadedguidebarsthefrontofwhichmakesapillarstitch.Marquisettehasasquaremeshwhereasvoiletendstoshowdiagonalinlays.Fig22.5ThreebarMarquisetteFig22.6Threebarvoile1422.10Elasticisedfabrics彈性織物Elasticisedfabricsareknittedonhigh-speedraschelandtricotmachinesaswellasinpatternedformonmultiguidebarlacemachines.Themainprerequisitesofthesemachinesisdeliveryoftheelastaneyarnunderconditionsofcontrolledtension,robustknittingelementsthatwillnotdeflectunderthetensionoftheelasticyarn,andcontrolledtensionforthefabrictake-up.powernet/彈力網(wǎng)眼(fig22.8)isthemostwidely-knownstructureforfoundationwear.1522.10Elasticisedfabrics彈性織物Front(nylon)ElastaneFig22.7Elastanefabrics1622.11Jacquardraschels

賈卡拉舍爾織物OnKarlMayermachineusingmechanicaljacquardcontrol,theprincipleemployedwastodeflectselectedguidesinafully-threadedjacquardbarguidebarbymeansofselectivelylowereddropperpins/移位針carriedinaseparately-shoggeddisplacementpinbar/移位針床.Thoseguideshaveagreaterorlesserextentoflapthantheundeflectedguidesofthesameguidebarwhichlapthedistancecontrolledbytheguidebarshoggingatthatcourse.Thepinsarekeptinthedisplacementpositionorraisedoutofactionbymeansofaverdoljacquardapparatus/韋多爾式提花機(jī)構(gòu)andharness/通絲arrangedabovethemachine.1722.11Jacquardraschels

賈卡拉舍爾織物Thetypeofdeflection/歪斜isdependentupontherelativelappingmovementsofbothbarsandtheexactmomentwhenthepincontactstheguide,sothattheguideiseitherdeflectedtowardsorawayfromitsdirectionoflapping.figureillustrateshowasemi-transparent/半密實區(qū)域two-needleinlay/2針襯緯(a)canbedeflectedtotheleftatoddcoursestoproduceopen-workareas/網(wǎng)孔區(qū)域ofone-needleinlays/1針襯緯(b),oratevencoursestoproducesolidareas/密實區(qū)域ofthree-needleinlays/3針襯緯(c).(a)(b)(c)Fig22.8Jacquardinlaydeflectionunits.18Fig22.9Mechanicaljacquardapparatus.1922.12theMayerjacquardtronicmulti-barlaceraschel邁耶電子式多梳拉舍爾花邊機(jī)Thetraditionalmechanicalverdoljacquardcontrol/韋多爾式提花控制,preciouslydescribed,isslow,cumbersome/笨重的andtime-consumingwhenchangingdesigns.Onthelatestelectronicmachines,thejacquardheadhasbeenreplacedbyacomputercontrolthatissimplylinkedbyacable/繩纜tothecombinedselectionelementandjacquardguide,whichareoneunit.Therearenojacquardharnesscords/通絲forliftingandguidedisplacementwhichwouldrestricttheuseoftheconventionalguidebarswingingmovement.Atfirst,KarlMayerusedelectro-magnetstoobtainthejacquarddeflectionmovement;thishasnowbeenreplacedbypiezotechnology/壓電材料.Whenanelectricalvoltageisappliedtoapiezoelectricmaterial,itexpandsorcontractsasafunctionofthepolarity/磁極性.2022.12theMayerjacquardtronicmulti-barlacer