文獻(xiàn)出處：NkrumahE.TheEffectofGarmentFitandZipperApplicationonThePerformanceofZipperonTheGhanaianMarket[J].AfricanJournalofAppliedResearch(AJAR),2015,1(1).原文THEEFFECTOFGARMENTFITANDZIPPERAPPLICATIONON

THEPERFORMANCEOFZIPPERONTHEGHANAIANMARKETNkrumah,E.ABSTRACTZippersareoneofthecommonlyusedfastenersintheclothingindustryinGhanabecausezippercostsrelativelylessandareeasiertofastenthanotherfasteners.However,itisperceivedthatmostzippersontheGhanaianmarketdonotfunctioneffectivelyastheyshouldduetoincorrectpracticesindressmaking.Theaimofthestudywastoexaminethefactorsingarmentconstructionthataffecttheperformanceofzippers.Theobjectivesaretoidentifytheeffectofgarmentfitonzipperperformanceandtodeterminetheeffectofzipperapplicationmethodonzipperperformance.Theresearchdesignusedwascross-sectionalsurveyandthesimplerandomsamplingtechniquewasusedtosample325tailors,dressmakersandfashionstudentsfromtheCapeCoastMetropolisfortheirviewsontheperformanceofzippersontheGhanaianmarket.ThemainfindingsofthestudywerethatClosefittedgarmentsandtheconcealedzipperapplicationmethodallaffectedzipperperformancenegatively.Thestudythereforerecommendedthatdressmakersshouldupgradetheirskillsonappropriategarmentfitandcorrectzipperapplicationtoreducezipperfailure.Keywords：Zipper;Fastener;Performance;Garment;GhanaINTRODUCTIONZippersareoneofthecommonlyusedfastenersintheclothingindustryworldwide.Gaddis(2011)arguedthatzipperswerethefirstmachinesthatpeoplelearnttomasterintheirchildhoodandhaveremainedthemostcommonmechanismsofdailylives.Itmayinfactbejustalittlestartlingtothinkofzippersasmachines,butsurelythatiswhattheyare;carefullyfittedpiecesofmetalandplasticthatmustmoveinclosecoordination.Whenthiscoordinationfails,thegarmentmaybeunusableuntilthezipperisrepairedorreplaced.AimTheaimofthestudywastoexaminetheeffectgarmentfitandzipperapplicationmethodontheperformanceofzippersontheGhanaianmarket.ObjectivesThespecificobjectivesareto:Identifytheeffectofgarmentfitonzipperperformance.Determinetheeffectofzipperapplicationmethodonzipperperformance.ResearchQuestionsHowdoesthefitofgarmentsaffectzipperperformanceasperceivedbytheusersofzippers?Whataretheviewsoftheusersofzippersontheeffectofzipperapplicationonzipperperformance?LITERATUREREVIEWAccordingtoJyler(2008),zippersaretheprincipalitemsusedinclothingthatarepartlytextileinnatureandpartlynon-textile,hardmaterial.Theyprovideaneatstrongfasteningingarments,andcanbefunctionalordecorativeorboth.Theyprovidetwoedgesthatwillmeshtogetherandresistpullingapartwhenstressedonatapesupportthatcanbesewnintothegarment(White,2009).Frings(2002)alsoaddedthat,zipperarefasteningdevicesconsistingofparallelrowsofmetal,plastic,ornylonteethonadjacentedgesofanopeningthatareinterlockedbyaslidingtab.Thomas(2009)alsoindicatedthat,thezippercanalsobeusedindiverswaysfordecoratingclothes.Thezipperisarecentadditiontothefamilyofsewninclosures,butithasprettymuchtakenoverastheuniversalclosuresinceitsintroduction.AccordingtoJyler(2008),zippercanvaryinthematerialsofthetape,theformandmaterialsofthemeshingsections,andintheoverallconstructionandfunctionofthezipper.Thelatteraffectspredominantlytheirmethodsofattachmenttogarments.However,Stone(2004)addedthatallthesezippersareproducedtodifferentspecificationsandtheirselectionshouldbebasedonhigherqualityspecification.Differentauthorsclassifyzipperdifferently,theseclassificationvaryaccordingtozipperpropertiessuchas:form,materialandpurpose.BuchananandMayer(2002),andJyler(2008)allclassifiedzippersaccordingtotheirform.BuchananandMayerclassifiedzippersintotwomaingroupswhichare:chainzipper(mediumweightzipperswithmetalorplasticteeth)coilzipper(syntheticcoilsofpolyesterornylonattachedtoawoventype)usefulforfinefabrics.Jyleragainindicatedthatthemajortypesofzipperare:individualmetalteeth,spiralcoil,plasticmoldedteeth,andinvisiblezippers.Thesetwoclassificationswerebasedonthenatureofmeshingsectionsofthezippers.ZipperApplicationZipperapplicationistheprocessofattachingzippersonagarment.Thisprocesscansometimesproveabitdifficultforbeginnersbuttheyarereallyeasyifthecorrectproceduresarefollowed,andthezipperorcordingfootisusedonthemachine(Diamond&Diamond,2007).Insertingazipperwithoutthisattachmentmaybreakthemachineneedle,perhapsdamagethemachine,andit’sdoubtfulthatthezipperwilllooktrimonceit’sinthegarmentandmaycausepermanentdamagetothezipper.Therearevariouszipperapplicationsdependingontheplacementofthezipperinthegarment,andthetypeofgarment.Inaddition,thetypeofzipperwillalsocertainlydeterminetheapplicationmethodtobeused.Generallyzippersarecenteredinaslotseamorhiddeninalappedseam.Mostzippersareinsertedintoseams.GarmentFitAccordingtoStone(2004),thefitofagarmentalsoaffecttheperformanceofclosuresonthem.Therearethreebasictypesofgarmentfitandthesearelossfitting,semiclosefittingandclosefitting.Thereisnoproblemwiththelossandsemiclosefittinggarmentshowevertheproblemiswiththeclosefittinggarments.Theclosenessofgarmentstothebodyputextrastrainonthezipper(Gaddis,2011).Whenthesezippersgetoverstretchedtotheirelasticlimitsduetothestressonittheteetheventuallypopopenfromthemiddlecausingapermanentdamagetothezipper.Ironically,manypeoplebuyorsewtheirclothesalittlebitsnugwiththeideathatitwillmakethemlookslimmer.Theoppositeistrue.Too-tightclothingcanmakeonelookpoundsheavier(Robison,2010).RESEARCHMETHODOLOGYCross-sectionalsurveywasusedtocollectdatatoseekzipperconsumers5perceptionsontheperformanceofzippersusedintheindustryfromapopulationof600garmentproducerswhichcomprisedof439tailorsanddressmakersintheCapeCoastMetropolisand161fashionstudentsofCapeCoastPolytechnicandCapeCoastTechnicalInstitute.Simplerandomsamplingprocedurewasusedtogetthesamplesizeof325respondentscomprisedoftailors,dressmakersandfashionstudents.Basedontheobjectivesofthestudy,questionnaireswereemployedforthedatacollection.Theadministeredquestionnaireswereeditedandgroupedunderemergingthemesbasedontheobjectivesofthestudyforeasyanalysis.EachresponsewascodedandenteredintoStatisticalProductandServiceSolutions(SPSS)version17foranalysis.Descriptivestatisticssuchasfrequencies,percentages,tablesandfigureswereusedtopresenttheresults.FINDINGSANDDISCUSSIONZipperApplicationMethodmostPronetoFailureAccordingtoStone(2004),improperzipperapplicationcandisturboperabilityandconsequentlyleadtopermanentdamageofthezipper,soaninvestigationintothezipperapplicationmethodusedbythedressmakerswhichwasmostpronetofailurewasdone.ThesefindingsconfirmthefindingsfromthedatatabulatedinTable8,where72.8%oftherespondentsfoundtheconcealedzipperapplicationmethodtobethemostdifficultmethodascomparedtoothermethods.Hence,thesuspicionthatconcealedzipperapplicationmethodwasthefirstreasonforzipperfailureongarments.Thefailureofzippersduringgarmentconstructionwaslikelytohavecomefromtheuseoftheconcealedmethod.Themethodmayresultinfailure,andzipperdamageduetobadapplicationmaybeconsiderablyhighforinexperiencedconsumersbecauseforaprofessionalfinish,onewouldhavetostitchveryclosetothezipperteethandalsotheuseofthecorrectfoot,whennotproperlydone,candisturboperabilityandconsequentlyleadtopermanentdamageofthezipperasstatedbyStone(2004).CONCLUSIONBasedontheresults,thefollowingconclusionsweredrawn:Closefittedgarmentsexertmorepressureonthegarment;thispressureisfeltmoreontheweakestareasofthegarmentwhicharetheseamsandthezipper,withthezipperbeingweakergenerallythantheseams.Again,incorrectzipperapplicationaffectedzipperperformancenegatively,theconcealedzipperapplicationmethodwereamajorcauseofzipperfailureingarments.Theconcealedzipperapplicationmethodrequiresspecialexpertiseandzipper-footforaprofessionalfinishhowever,thezipper-footsareveryexpensivewhenavailable.RecommendationsToensurereliablezippersfortheclothingindustryinGhanathestudyrecommends:Dressmakersshouldnotmakegarmentstofitsnuglytothebodyasthisputsextrastrainonthezippertoforcefullyplyopen.Dressmakersshouldoccasionallyupgradetheirskillsonthecorrectapplicationofzippersthroughworkshopsandshortcoursesinordertoreducetheincidenceofzippersfailureduetoimproperzipperapplication.譯文服裝的合體性和拉鏈的應(yīng)用對加納市場的影響恩克魯瑪摘要拉鏈?zhǔn)欠b行業(yè)中常用的配件之一，在加納地區(qū)，這主要是因?yàn)槔湹某杀鞠鄬^低，并且更容易使用，效果也比其他緊固件好。然而，我們發(fā)現(xiàn)，大多數(shù)的拉鏈在加納市場中，并沒有得到有效的使用，主要是因?yàn)樗鼈冊谥埔逻^程中，被不正確的使用。這項(xiàng)研究的目的是研究服裝制造中，影響拉鏈?zhǔn)褂眯实囊蛩?。目?biāo)是確定在服裝制造中，拉鏈的影響及拉鏈的應(yīng)用。研究采用的是簡單隨機(jī)抽樣技術(shù)，選取了325個裁縫作為研究對象。這項(xiàng)研究的主要發(fā)現(xiàn)是，修身的衣服和隱藏拉鏈的應(yīng)用方法，對拉鏈的應(yīng)用產(chǎn)生了負(fù)面的影響。因此，建議裁縫應(yīng)該提高他們的技能，將拉鏈以最合適的辦法應(yīng)用到服裝中。關(guān)鍵詞:拉鏈;緊固件;性能;服裝;加納引言拉鏈?zhǔn)侨蚍b行業(yè)中常用的緊固件。迪斯(2011)認(rèn)為，拉鏈?zhǔn)侨藗冊谒麄兊耐昃蛯W(xué)會使用的第一個小部件，在日常生活中也是最常見的服裝中的配件。實(shí)際上，這樣認(rèn)為，一點(diǎn)都不夸張。在拉鏈的安裝中，必須要密切配合好各道工序。當(dāng)這種協(xié)調(diào)失敗的話，拉鏈就很可能無法使用到服裝中，也很難維修和更換。研究的目標(biāo)這項(xiàng)研究的目的就是分析拉鏈在服裝中的應(yīng)用效果，以及拉鏈在加納服裝市場中的表現(xiàn)。具體目標(biāo)是：1識別拉鏈對服裝的影響。2確定拉鏈的應(yīng)用及其對服裝性能的影響。研究的問題1服裝的合體性對拉鏈應(yīng)用的影響？2站在用戶的視角看拉鏈對服裝的影響文獻(xiàn)綜述根據(jù)伊勒(2008)的研究，拉鏈的主要用于服裝的緊固部分，需要和紡織材料融合在一起。他們提供了一個整潔的修身衣服，可以將拉鏈的功能和裝飾效果合二為一。弗林斯(2002)，認(rèn)為，拉鏈?zhǔn)枪潭ㄑb置，是平行成排的金屬，塑料或尼龍牙齒，它們的相鄰邊緣都是吻合的。托馬斯(2009)還表示，拉鏈也可以用于潛水員的服裝中。拉鏈在家庭中的應(yīng)用并不是很長，但自引入以后，在通用服裝領(lǐng)域中已經(jīng)使用了相當(dāng)?shù)拈L時間了。根據(jù)伊勒的說法，拉鏈可以有很多材料，嚙合部分的形式也不同。后者對衣服的使用效果有很大的影響。然而，斯托(2004)補(bǔ)充說，所有這些拉鏈按不同的規(guī)格以及高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)規(guī)范來生產(chǎn)的。(完整譯文請到百度文庫)不同的人對拉鏈的分類也不同，可以根據(jù)拉鏈的形式、材料和用途來分。布坎南和梅耶（2002），伊勒（2008），主要是根據(jù)拉的形式來分類。布坎南和馬耶爾是根據(jù)材料來分類的，他們將拉鏈分成兩類:鏈拉鏈（中等重量與金屬或塑料拉鏈牙齒）和線圈拉鏈（合成聚酯或尼龍的線圈連接一個編織類型）。伊勒再次表明，拉鏈的主要類型有:單獨(dú)的金屬牙齒，螺旋線圈，塑料模制牙齒以及隱形拉鏈。這兩個分類則基于拉鏈的嚙合部分的性質(zhì)來分類。拉鏈的應(yīng)用拉鏈的應(yīng)用，主要是在服裝制作及安裝過程中。這個過程有時對初學(xué)者來說，可能有點(diǎn)困難，但是如果他們真的遵循了正確的程序，那么是很容易上手的（迪亞蒙德，2007）。在服裝中插入