2023/4/111CHAPTER23FinishingTechnologyandFabricPreparation2023/4/112

Keywords全部Newwords1，2，4，5，7，14，15，17，19，26-29，37，40，42，44，45，48，49，51，56，58-61，67，71，73，75，82，83。2023/4/113

Thetermgreige（綢坯，坯布，本色布）goods(orgraygoods)isusedtodescribefabricsastheycomefromtheloomorknittingmachine.Thesefabricsmaycontaintemporaryfinishessuchaswarpsizingorspinningandknittingoils,whichmustberemovedpriortosaleorfurtherprocessing.Afewfabricsaresoldimmediatelyafterweaving;thetermloomfinishedisusedforsuchfabrics（落機(jī)坯布）.Mostofthetime,aseriesofprocessesisrequiredtotransformgreigegoodsintoadyedandfinishedfabricsuitableforapparelhouseholduse.2023/4/114Traditionally,suchprocessinghasusedalargequantityofwater,whichthenhastobeseparatedfromthefabricandtreatedtoremoveprocessingchemicals.Currentdevelopmentinfinishingtechniquesemphasizetheuseoflesswaterandtherecoveryofchemicalsforreuse.Decreasingtheamountofwaterabsorbedbythefabricreducestheenergyrequiredtodrythefabricandtheamountofwaste-waterthatmustbeprocessedforsewage污水,廢水,下水道用污水灌溉.Inmanycases,chemicalsmustberemovedfromfinishingbathstomeetwaterqualitystandardsforsewagedischarge.Ifthechemicalscanbereused,manufacturingcostscanbereduced.2023/4/115Thefibercontentandtheintendedenduseofthefabricdeterminetheselectionofdyesandfinishesandthemethodsusedtoapplythem.Becausesomanycombinationsofchemicals,machines,andtechniquesarepossible,itisdifficulttodescribedyeingandfinishing

asastep-by-step按部就班process.Asageneralrule,naturalfibersreceivemoreprocessingthanmanufacturedfiberstoachievethesameendproduct.Thermoplasticfibersmayrequirecarefulcontrolofprocessingtemperaturestopreventfiberdamage.Knitfabricsusuallyrequirelessprocessingthanwovenfabrics,whicharemadewithheavilysizedwarpyarns.Nonwovenfabricsmayrequirespecialhandlinginfinishingiftheyhavelowinitialstrength.

2023/4/116

Thegeneralorderofprocessingisfabricpreparation,whichincludeswashingandbleaching(漂白工藝),dyeingorprintingtoaddcolorandtheapplicationofspecialfinishes.Moreprocessingisrequiredtoproduceabrightlyprinted,water-repellent（拒水的）,durable-press（耐久壓燙，耐久定形）,polyester-cottonraincoatthantoproduceanundyedcottonosnaberg(低支紗柳條或色格棉布，粗袋布)drapery(供裝飾用的)織物,幃帳,布料fabric.Adescriptionofsomeofthegeneralsystemsinusefollows.2023/4/117FinishingsystemOPEN-WIDTHFINISHINGROPEFINISHINGCONTINOUSSYSTEMBATCHSYSTEMSGARMENTSYSTEMSSOLVENTSYSTEMSFOAMSYSTEMS2023/4/118OPEN-WIDTHFINISHING（平幅整理）Inopen-widthfinishingfabricisprocessedasaflatmaterialopenedtoitsfullwidth.Chemicalsmaybeappliedwithasprayorbyimmersion沉浸ofthefabricintoawater,solvent,orfoambath.Evenpenetrationofthefinishingmaterialisachievedbypassingthefabricthroughoneormoresetsofopposingrollscalledpads浸軋輥,whichpressthechemicalintothefabric(Figure23.1).Rollsarealsousedtoremoveexcessliquidfromfabricsaspartofthedryingprocess.2023/4/119Open-widthdryingmaybedonebypassingthefabricoveraseriesofdryingcylindersorcansorbytentering(拉幅)-usingatenterframetopullafabricthroughadryingoven.Atenterframehastwoparallelcontinuouschainswithclips夾子,回形針,子彈夾orpins夾子,針板toholdtheselvageofthefabric.Itisoftenpossibletoseethetinyholesorbruisemarks察傷,碰痕leftbytenterframesintheselvagesoffabrics.Ifonesideofthefabricismovedthroughatenterframeatahigherrateofspeedthantheotherside,thefabricwillbedistorted,orskewed.2023/4/1110Forsometwillfabrics,itisdesirabletoskewthefabricintenteringtoreducethedistortion扭曲,變形,曲解,失真ortwistthathappensaftergarmentsaremadefromit.Formostwovenfabrics,however,itisdesirabletopullafabriconatenterframesothatthewarpandfillingyarnsareperpendiculartoeachother.2023/4/1111Thisproducesafabricthatisongrain（紋理清晰）forsubsequentprocessingorsewingoperations.Circularknits圓筒形針織物thataresplitlength-wisemaybepulledandtentered拉幅tocontrolspirality螺旋形andallowthematchingofstripesorotherpatternsinsewing.2023/4/1112Thewidthoffabricsiscontrolledbythedistancebetweenthetwochainsoftheframe.Thefabricmaybeallowedtocontract合同,契約,婚約v.使縮短,感染,訂約,oritmaybepulledtoagreaterwidth.Ifafabricisnotsetinitsnewdimensionswithchemicalsorbyheat,itwillreturntoitsoriginalwidththenexttimeitiswet.2023/4/1113ROPEFINISHING（繩狀整理）Inropefinishing

(Figure23.4),afabriciscollapsedintoalooselybunched串,束,捆成一束cylindricalmass,orrope,whichisthenpulledthroughafinishingbaththatmaybewater-orsolvent-based.Penetrationofthefabricbythechemicalsoccurswithrepeateddipping浸漬,蘸orimmersion（浸漬，浸入）,squeezingwithrollersormangles（軋液機(jī)，軋布機(jī)）,orallowingthewetfabrictositinaholdingbin箱柜,orJbox.2023/4/1114Iftheropeoffabricisbunched串,束v.捆成一束tootightly緊緊地,堅(jiān)固地,properpenetrationbychemicalswillnotoccur,anditisalsopossibletocrush壓碎,碾碎,壓服,壓垮,粉碎,(使)變形linesorcreases折縫,折痕v.折,弄皺intothefabric.Suchropemarks同RUNNINGMARKS,經(jīng)向長(zhǎng)折痕,繩狀擦傷痕,繩狀色條痕aredifficulttoremoveinsubsequentprocessing.Mostfabricsthatareprocessedinropeformaredriedopenwidth.2023/4/1115CONTINUOUSSYSTEMInacontinuoussystem,fabricsmovewithoutunnecessarypausesfromoneprocesstoanother,whichreducesthetimerequiredforprocessingandthebuildup組合,累計(jì),組成ofinventory存貨,總量betweenprocesses.ThemachinerydesignedforcontinuousprocessingincludesJboxesandbins箱柜[計(jì)]二進(jìn)制文件的擴(kuò)展名thatallowadwelltime(壓鑄的)保壓時(shí)間,停留時(shí)間sufficientforchemicalreactionstotakeplace.2023/4/1116Inacontinuoussystem,theproductionlengthsfrommanyloomsorotherfabric-formingmachinesaretorncrosswise斜地,成十字狀地,交叉地toformastraightedge,thensewnend-to-endtomakeacontinuouslengthoffabric.Theheader首領(lǐng),隊(duì)長(zhǎng),收割臺(tái),頁(yè)眉標(biāo)題,報(bào)頭(startingpiece),usedtothreadthelengththroughthefinishingrange,isaverylongscrap碎片,廢料,用過(guò)的fabricthatisusedmorethanonceasaheader.Bothopen-widthandropefinishingmayrunascontinuousprocesses.2023/4/1117BATCH(面包等)一爐,一批SYSTEMSInbatchprocesses,textileproductsareprocessedasindividual,discrete分離的,不連續(xù)的units.Yarnsmaybeprocessedonpackagesthatarediscreteunits.Somedyeing,printing,andfinishingprocessesarecarriedoutasseparateoperationsonshortlengthsoffabrics.Machinerysuchasbecks槽,缸,jigs卷染機(jī),kettles罐,釜,andkiers煮布鍋,精練鍋areusedinbatchprocessing.Abatchsystemthatisgrowinginpopularityisgarmentprocessinganddyeing.Themachineusedforgarmentprocessingresemblesanindustrialwashingmachine.2023/4/1118GARMENTSYSTEMSFormanyyearshosiery針織品,襪類andsomeotherknittedgarmentshavebeensewnfirst,thendyedandfinished.Inrecentyears,denim粗斜紋棉布jeans斜紋布褲,牛仔褲andsimilarapparelhavebeenbleached,stonewashed（砂洗）,andacidwashedafterthegarmentswereconstructed.SuchfirmsasBennetonhaveusedgarmentdyeingandfinishingasameansofcontrollinginventory(存貨).Garmentscanbemadeupfromgreigefabricsearlyinthefashionseasonandthendyedforshipmenttostoresafterearlysalesrecordsindicatewhichcolorsandstylesaremostpopularwithconsumers.2023/4/1119SOLVENTSYSTEMS（溶劑整理）Chemicalsolventsarereplacingwaterinsomeprocesses.Theadvantagesofsolventsarereducedwaterpollutionandreducedenergyconsumptioninfabricdrying.Someoilstains油性著色劑,油污,油漬andimpurities,especiallyinwoolandsomemanufacturedfibers,areremovedmorereadily（容易地）withsolvents.2023/4/1120FOAMSYSTEMS（泡沫整理）Foam

finishingwasdevelopedtoreduceenergyconsumption,waterpollution,and,tosomeextent,laborcosts.Theprocesstreatstextilesubstrates（底層）withfoamedchemicalsataverylowwetpickup（纖維吸液率）(littlesaturationofthetextilebyliquid).Itusesarapidlybreakingmedium(thatis,thebubblesareeasytoburst)forfinishingchemicals,precisemetering計(jì)量供給andflowcontrolforthedeliveryoffoamtothesubstrate,andanapplicatorsystem（給液系統(tǒng)）designedtoallowuniformhigh-speedapplicationandcollapseoffoaminasinglestep.2023/4/1121

Bothsemistableandstablefoamsystemsareused.Asemistablefoamisnecessarytoobtainspontaneous（自發(fā)的）foamcollapseandspreadthroughoutthesubstrate.Stablefoamsarespecifiedforfoam-coatingmachinerythatusesaseparatesteptobreakanddistributethefoamthroughthetextilematerial.Manipulation操作andprecisecontrolmakeitpossibletoapplyawidevarietyofchemicalagentstosubstratesrangingfromlofty,thickfabricssuchasrugsandcarpetstothin,sheerfabrics.Useofdualhead—dualfeed（雙頭雙喂）applicatorsmakesitpossibletosequentially連續(xù),有序的applydifferentchemicalswithoutintervening干涉，干預(yù)插入介入dryingsteps.2023/4/1122

Theprimaryfoamsusedintextilefinishingaredispersionfoams,whicharemadebyintroducingandmixingagasfromanexternalsourceintoaliquid.Somesystemsuseafoamgeneratedbyamechanicalbeating敲打orwhipping抽打processsimilartothatforproducingwhippedcream（起泡乳劑）.2023/4/1123

Finishesfordurablepress（耐久壓燙，耐久定型，又稱DP整理）,waterrepellency,soilrelease,mercerization（絲光）,andhandbuildinghavebeenappliedsuccessfullyasfoams.Thereducedwetpickupdecreasesthechemicalwasteaswellastheenergyandtimerequiredtodrythefabric.2023/4/1124FabricPreparationThepurposeoffabricpreparationistoremovetheimpuritiesfromfabricsandthusprovideaclean,smoothfabricforsaleorauniformsurfacefortheapplicationofcolorandotherfinishes.Thechemicalsandprocessesusedtopreparecottonandwoolfabricsdifferbecausethechemicalandphysicalpropertiesofthetwofibersaredifferent.Amodified改良,改進(jìn),修正的cottonfabricpreparationprocessisusedformostmanufacturedfibers.2023/4/1125COTTONFabricPreparationThewarpyarnsofthewovencottonfabricsthatcomefromagreigemillcontainarelativelylargequantityofsizingmaterial,whichwasaddedpriortoweavingtoincreaseweavingefficiency.Notallfragmentsofcottonseedsandleavesareremovedinginning軋棉,軋花andcarding,sothosethatremain,knownasmotes(籽屑，生屑),mustberemovedbychemicalprocessing.Cottonfibersalsocontainnaturalpectins（果膠）,oils,andsugarsthatmustberemovedtoprovideevenabsorbency.Theminimumprocessingforacottonorcotton-blendfabricincludesdesizing（退漿）,scouring（煮煉，脫膠，洗滌，預(yù)浸，精煉）,tentering（拉幅）,andcalendering（軋光，壓光）.2023/4/1126Singeing燒毛工藝Itisnotunusualtostartprocessingcottonfabricswithabrushingandsingeingoperationtoremovelint棉絨,looseyarns,andsurfacedirtfromthefaceofthefabric.Afterthesurfaceofthefabricisraisedbybrushing,theprotrudingfiberendsareburnedoff燒掉,蒸發(fā)bytheprocessknownassingeing.Themostcommonmethodofsingeingistopassthefabricthroughasmallgasflame.Theremovalofsuperficial表面的,膚淺的,淺薄的hairinessfromyarnsprovidesamoreevensurfacefordyeingandalsoreducestheformationofpills（起球）,orballsoffiber,onthefabric.2023/4/1127

Indesizing,singedfabricisimmediatelyquenched（驟冷，淬火）bypassingitthroughamangle（軋液機(jī)）,orpad墊,襯墊,便箋簿,whichsaturates使飽和,浸透,充滿itwithadesizingagentandextinguishesanysparksonthefabricsurface.Thedesizingagent,ordesize,usedisdeterminedbythetypeofsizingmaterialalreadyappliedtothefabric.Fabricisrunthroughthedesizingsolution,suchastheoxidizingagentsulfuricacid]硫磺酸or,morefrequently,enzymes（酶）,andallowedtosteep陡峭的,險(xiǎn)峻的,急劇升降的,不合理的n.懸崖,峭壁,浸漬,浸漬液v.浸,泡,沉浸inacontainersuchasaJboxorscray（小型J形堆布箱）toallowthedesizingagenttimetoreact.2023/4/1128Thedwelltimewillrangefromafewminutestoovernight.Heatisfrequentlyusedtoacceleratetheprocess.Wheretemperaturesof180°FaremaintainedinaJbox,desizingmaybecompletedinapproximately30minutes,ifthefabricisexposedtothehightemperaturesofasteamer,desizingmaybecompletedin30to60seconds.Inallcases,fabricsarethoroughlywashedtoremovethesizingaftersteeping.浸漬,浸泡adj.浸漬的2023/4/1129Scouring精煉Inscouring,hotalkalinesolutionsareusedtoremovedesizingproducts,pectin,andwaxfromcottonfabrics.Scouringandsubsequentbleachingalsoremovesomeofthefugitive逃亡的,無(wú)常的,易變的tints色彩thatareusedastracingagentsonmanufacturedfibersduringspinningandfabricformation.Theequipmentemployedandtheenduseofthefabricdeterminewhichcombinationsofchemicalsareusedinscouring.Productssuchassodiumhydroxide（氫氧化鈉）,sodiumcarbonate,chelating螯合agentsforiron鐵,anddetergents清潔劑，去污劑arefrequentlyusedinwater-basedscouringoperations.2023/4/1130

Hypochlorite（次氯酸鈉）bleachbathsarepreparedbyaddingchlorinegastoanalkalinesolutionofcausticorsodaash.Theamountofsodiumhypochlorite(NaOCI)produceddeterminestheconcentrationofavailablechlorineforbleaching.Afterfabricsarebleachedwithhypochlorite,theymustbethoroughlywashedandmaybetreatedwithanantichlor（脫氯劑）toneutralize（中和）thefabricandreducepotentiallossofstrengthfromoverbleaching.Sodiumchlorite亞氯酸鈉isalessfrequentlyusedchlorinebleachingchemical.2023/4/1131

Hydrogenperoxide（過(guò)氧化氫H2O2）isthechemicalmostcommonlyusedtodayforbleachingcotton.MostperoxidebleachingisplishedatelevatedtemperaturesandapHofabout10.5.Caremustbetakentocontrolbleachingaction,orthefabricmaybetendered(weakened)bybleaching.Lesswashingmayberequiredforfabricsafterperoxidebleaching（過(guò)氧化物漂白）.2023/4/1132MercerizingThepurposeofmercerizingcottonfabricundertensionistoincreasethelusterofthefiber.Theprocessusuallyfollowsbleaching.Thefabricissaturatedwitha16to24percentcaustic(sodiumhydroxide)solutionwhilebeingheldundertension.Themercerizingsolutionswellsthecottonfiberandproducesapermanentchangeinthex-raydiffractionpatternofthefiber.Thefiberuntwistsandswells,thelumen(中腔)essmaller,andasthefiberesrounderincrosssectionitgainsluster.Theprocesstakesplacefairlyquickly,andtheexcesscausticisrinsedfromthefabricwhilethefabricisstillundertension.2023/4/1133Becausechemicalandphysicalchangesoccurincottonduringmercerization,fiberpropertiesotherthanlusterareaffected.Dyeaffinityisimprovedandchemicalreactivityisincreased.Withmercerization,immaturecot-tonfibersemoredyeableandlesslikelytoformneps,thesmallknotsofentangledfibersthatcannotbedisentangled.Mercerizedfabricsarebothstrongerandsmootherthanunmercerizedfabrics.2023/4/1134Fabricsmercerizedwithouttensionarenotaslustrousasfabricsmercerizedwithtension,butslack-mercerized(松式絲光)fabricshaveimprovedelongationandrecoveryproperties,andthushavebeenusedtoproducecomfortstretchgarmentsandfabricbandages繃帶,whichneedtoconformtobodyshapes.2023/4/1135Cottonyarnmaybemercerizedincontinuouslengths,inaprocesscalledwarpmercerizing,orinskeins（絞紗）heldundertension.Warpmercerizingismorecommon.Itisusedforsewingthreadsandknittingyarnsinwhichhigherlusterandstrengtharedesired.2023/4/1136CalenderingThefinalmechanicalprocessforafabriciscalendering.Itissimilartoironingagarmenttoremovewrinklesandprovideasmoothsurface.Thedryfabricispassedoveraseriesofheavyrollsthatessentiallypolish磨光,光澤,上光劑,優(yōu)雅,精良vt.擦亮,發(fā)亮,磨光,推敲vi.發(fā)亮,變光滑adj.波蘭的itssurface.Therollsmayormaynotbeheated,andtheirsurfacesmaybesmoothorroughdependingonthetypeoffabricsurfacerequired.CalenderingforspecialeffectsisdiscussedinChapter27.2023/4/1137InspectionTwomethodsofrepair（修補(bǔ)，織補(bǔ)，回修）areburling修補(bǔ)修呢andmending.Burling去除棉結(jié)/毛結(jié)istheremovalofknotsorlooseyarnsfromthefaceofthefabric.Inmostinstancestheimperfection不完整性,非理想性issimplypulledtothebackofthefabricandtrimmedadj.整齊的,整潔的vt.整理,修整,裝飾.

Mending回修istheactualrepairofimperfections.Iftherepairisnoticeablefromthefaceofthefabric,thegradeofthefabricmaybelowered.2023/4/1138Arecordofthedefectsinafabriclengthiskepttodetermineitsquality.Theprocessofgivingpointsandassigningaqualityleveliscalledfabricgradingn.等級(jí),級(jí)別vt.評(píng)分,評(píng)級(jí)v.分等級(jí).Thegradingpointsassignedtoaspecificlengthoffabricdeterminewhetheritmaybesoldasfirstqualityorasseconds.2023/4/1139

Whendefectsaremarked,eitherbyplacingstrings色線頭(織疵標(biāo)記),吊辯(毛紡行業(yè)),clips,ormarks標(biāo)志,分?jǐn)?shù),痕跡,記號(hào)vt.做標(biāo)記于,打分?jǐn)?shù),標(biāo)志vi.作記號(hào)intheselvageofafabricorbymakingacomputeryardage計(jì)碼表reportonthefabric,apparelmanufacturersandupholsterycutters（裁剪機(jī)，裁剪員，切割機(jī)）canmakecuttingplanstoutilizetheirfabricsmoreeffectively.2023/4/1140WOOLFABRICPREPARATION

Woolandwool-blendfabricsrequirepreparationandfinishingtechniquesthatdonotadversely逆的,相反的affectthechemicalandphysicalpropertiesofthewoolfiber.Thestrongalkaliesandchlorinebleachesappropriatefor適于,合乎cottonfinishingwoulddissolvethewoolfibers.;andhandlingwetwoolfabricwiththetechniquesusedinthechemicaltreatmentofcottonwouldnormallyfelt（氈縮，氈化，縮呢，縮絨）thewool.作業(yè):閱讀以下PPT2023/4/1141CarbonizingBleachingCrabbing（煮呢）Clearfinishing光潔整理WetDecatingandSemidecating(濕蒸呢和干蒸呢)Fulling＝milling縮呢，氈合2023/4/1142CarbonizingCardingdoesnotremoveallthevegetablematterfromwoolfibers.Carbonizingisachemicaltreatmentthatusessulfuricorhydro-chloricacid氫氯酸oraluminumchloride氯化鋁saltstoreducevegetablemattertocarbon,whichcanthenberemovedfromthefabricbydusting除雜.Ifsulfuricacidisused,thefabricmustafterwardbeneutralizedinawashingprocesstopreventfiberdegradation.Mostwooliscarbonizedinthefiberstage.2023/4/1143BleachingHydrogenperoxideandotheroxidizingagents,suchassodiumperoxide