0GarmentManufacturingBestPractices&Procedures生產(chǎn)管控范例和程序

1Content分類(lèi)目錄PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料管理程序Cutting裁剪Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage輔料存儲(chǔ)SewingLines車(chē)縫Finishing&PackingControls后整和包裝QualityManagement品質(zhì)管理21.PieceGoodsHandling&Processing面料的管理和程序Importantprocesstomanageon-timegarmentdeliverytocustomer確保準(zhǔn)時(shí)交貨的重要步驟MaterialFirstQuality原料品質(zhì)第一MaterialOnTimeDelivery原料準(zhǔn)時(shí)交付3Warehouse倉(cāng)庫(kù)Fabricshouldbestoredinracksoronpalettesinanorganizedfashion.面料必須分類(lèi)存放在貨架或臺(tái)板上NoFabricrollsshouldbeonthefloororstandingonend.面料不可以直接放在地上或豎立NoOpenorbrokenpackaging.包裝不可以打開(kāi)或破損Keepfabricsoutofdirectsunlight.面料不可以被陽(yáng)光直射4Warehouse(cont’d)Fabricsshouldbesegregatedbycolor/shade/customer.面料需按照客戶(hù)/顏色/缸號(hào)分別存放Identifiedclearlywithinformationpertainingtoeachstyle.每款面料必須有清晰明顯的標(biāo)簽5Fabricinspection面料檢驗(yàn)ImmediatelyuponfabricarrivalInspectminimum10%acrossallcolor/dyelots.面料入庫(kù)后應(yīng)盡快抽取至少10%檢驗(yàn)，抽樣需包括全部顏色/缸號(hào)Increaseinspectionasrequiredbaseduponproblemsfound.發(fā)現(xiàn)問(wèn)題后需增加檢驗(yàn)數(shù)量Ensuregoodconditionandlayoutoffabricinspectionmachine.確保驗(yàn)布機(jī)的功能完好Inspect&recordusing4-pointsystem.面料檢驗(yàn)使用4分制標(biāo)準(zhǔn)6Fabricinspection(cont’d)Fabricinspectionreport面料檢驗(yàn)報(bào)告Completedinspectionresultwithconclusion&actiontakenforproblemdetected.LookforManagersignatures.完整的檢驗(yàn)結(jié)果包括發(fā)現(xiàn)問(wèn)題后的結(jié)論和處理方法，管理層的簽署Reportsandfabricswatchestobekeptonthefabricinspectionsection檢驗(yàn)報(bào)告和樣卡必須存放在面料檢驗(yàn)部Fabricinspectionreportwithfabricswatchesattached面料檢驗(yàn)報(bào)告和布樣7Fabricinspection(cont’d)Visuallibraryoffabricdefectstobedisplayednearthefabricinspectionareatobeusedasguidanceandcontinuouslearning在面料檢驗(yàn)區(qū)域張貼面料瑕疵樣，以便在檢驗(yàn)時(shí)對(duì)照和參考8Fabricinspection(cont’d)Separateclearlymarkedquarantineareaforrejectedfabric檢驗(yàn)不合格的面料需存放在有明顯標(biāo)注的隔離區(qū)Onlyreleasethequalifiedfabricforproduction

產(chǎn)品只能使用檢驗(yàn)合格的面料9In-housefabrictesting&control面料內(nèi)部測(cè)試和控制Animportantmanufacturingprocesstoensurequalityofproducts確保生產(chǎn)品質(zhì)的重要程序Acompulsoryrequirementforfactorytoverifyfabricqualitypriortoproceedbulk這是強(qiáng)制要求，工廠必須在大貨生產(chǎn)前檢驗(yàn)面料In-housetestrecordsshouldbecompleted/wellorganizedwithneededinformationfortrackinginadditiontofabric&garmenttestreportsbyapproved3rdpartylab內(nèi)部測(cè)試記錄需完整，包括除了由認(rèn)可的第三方檢驗(yàn)室出具的面料和成衣測(cè)試報(bào)告外以及其他必須的檢測(cè)記錄10In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Weightcontrol克重控制Alldye-lotsweighedandcomparedtostandard.測(cè)試所有缸號(hào)的克重并與標(biāo)準(zhǔn)比對(duì)11In-housefabrictesting&control(cont’d)Shadebandcontrol缸差控制Lightboxwillbeneededforshadecheckingandgrouping;需使用燈箱來(lái)查看和分類(lèi)Shadebandcardfornon-washedprogram不水洗的缸差表Checkallrollsagainstapprovedcolorstandardundercustomer’srequiredlightsources;在客人確認(rèn)的燈光下用確認(rèn)的色樣與每疋布對(duì)比GroupsimilarshadesbyPObeforecutting.裁剪前按合同數(shù)量來(lái)分配使用相同或接近的缸號(hào)AB122.Cutting裁剪Appropriateequipmenttobeused使用合適的設(shè)備Cuttingtablesarewellmaintained裁剪臺(tái)維護(hù)得當(dāng)Clean,freeofStickers,Tape,Damagedsurfacesandlevel.整潔，無(wú)多余的貼紙，膠帶，破損和平整13Priortocutting裁剪前Fabricrelaxationbeforespreading:拉布前先松布Usingappropriatemachinetorelaxthefabricrolls;使用合適的設(shè)備松布Appropriateshelvestorelax&storebyindividualroll每疋布需分開(kāi)松布和松布后存放Mustbecoveredtoprotectfromdustatalltimeduringstorage.存放時(shí)要覆蓋好避免灰塵Atleast24hrsforknitandwovenfabricwithspandex;12hrsfornormalknitfabricwithoutspandex;

針?biāo)罂椀膹椓Σ贾辽偎刹?4小時(shí)，無(wú)彈力針織布至少需12小時(shí)Cleardisplayedrecordoffabricrelaxationtime.松布記錄需清楚顯示松布時(shí)間Fabricrelaxingmachine松布機(jī)Hangtagstodisplayeddetail貨架上的標(biāo)示牌

WellCoveredShelves/racksforindividualfabricrolls貨架上正確存放放松后的面料14Priortocutting(cont’d)Fabricpre-shrunkmachine面料防縮機(jī)Itishighlyrecommendedtousethemachinetopre-shrinkthefabricwithunstableshrinkagetoavoidmeasurementdeviationonbulk.極度推薦使用此防縮機(jī)來(lái)避免因?yàn)槊媪系牟环€(wěn)定縮率影響大貨尺寸15Priortocutting(cont’d)Shadelotstobesegregatedfromcuttingtopacking;缸差分類(lèi)需從裁剪開(kāi)始直到包裝Cuttingplan/ticketareissuedbydye/shadelot;分缸從裁剪計(jì)劃/標(biāo)貼缸號(hào)開(kāi)始Afabriclayerreporttoidentifynumberoffabriclayers,fabricusedperrollandtheyardageofexcessfabricperrollisrecommendedforrecordkeeping裁剪記錄需記錄每疋布的疋號(hào)，拉布的層數(shù)，和剩余數(shù)量(itwilleventuallyhelpthecuttingroomstafftocreateabundlecontrolreports這些數(shù)據(jù)可以幫助裁剪人員建立完整的控制報(bào)告).16Priortocutting(cont’d)Spreading拉布Checkmarkersforstyle/PO#,components,grainline,pattern/napdirection,notchesandsizes;檢查嘜架上的款號(hào)/合同號(hào)，組件，布紋線，剪切口和尺寸等Ideallyusingtensionfreespreadingmachinetoavoidpullingorstretchingofthefabric.建議使用自動(dòng)拉布機(jī)，避免人工造成的拉力不穩(wěn)定Fabriclots/rollstobesegregatedtocontrolshades;

面料需分缸Spreadingheight(subjecttothefabricnature):不同面料的拉布高度Woven≦5”梭織類(lèi)不高于5英寸Knit≦4”針織類(lèi)不高于4英寸Fleece≦6”絨毛類(lèi)不高于6英寸Denim:牛仔類(lèi)

≦60-70pilesfor11.5-12.5oz11.5-12.5安士的不超過(guò)60-70層

≦80pilesforbelow10oz10安士以下的不超過(guò)80層17Whilecutting裁剪時(shí)

Acompliancerequirementforcuttersistousesteelglove裁剪工人必須強(qiáng)制使用金屬手套Metalclampsusedtoholdedgeofeachlayorbundle使用金屬夾子固定布邊和分包18Aftercutting裁剪后Panelschecking:裁片檢查Cutpanelaccuracyaudit裁片偏刀檢查T(mén)akingtop,middleandbottomlayersofeachcriticalbundleandcomparingwithpattern.從裁片的上/中/下各抽取一片與紙板比對(duì)Cutpanelquality裁片品質(zhì)

Theneedtoperformthisshouldbedeterminedbaseduponfabricinspectionresults.根據(jù)面料檢驗(yàn)的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)去檢驗(yàn)裁片Anyfabricdefectivepartfound,replacethepanelusingthelayreporttolocatetheremnantyardage.配片應(yīng)根據(jù)裁剪記錄找回同一疋布的余布去配換Discrepanciesarereportedwithcorrectionandimprovement.有問(wèn)題時(shí)記錄上必須有改正或改善的方案19Aftercutting(cont’d)Panelnumberingtoidentifytheshadelot裁片編號(hào)用于缸號(hào)識(shí)別

Throughoutsewingprocessuntilpacking(exceptforgarmentsthatrequirewashing);控制從車(chē)縫直到包裝（除成衣水洗外）Whengarmentsarewashed:成衣水洗eachcutiskeptinpalletsseparatelyandclearlyidentified;按缸號(hào)分包并標(biāo)示清楚differentcutsarenotfedinsamewashingload分缸水洗Cutpanelfeedingtosewingline裁片進(jìn)車(chē)間Insidelargebinsortrolleys,buttobecoveredatalltimeduringstoragebetweenthecuttingandsewingfloors裁片在由裁剪房運(yùn)送到車(chē)間時(shí)，需全程覆蓋好用箱子或手推車(chē)運(yùn)送203.Accessories/Trims/SundriesStorage輔料倉(cāng)庫(kù)

Shouldbewellpacked,covered,organizedandidentified輔料存放必須整齊，有序，覆蓋并標(biāo)識(shí)清楚Properlystoredandorganizedbystyle;按款式分別存放和管理CheckedinQuality&Quantity;品質(zhì)和數(shù)量檢驗(yàn)VerifiedagainstapprovedspecimenandBOM;確認(rèn)樣板和物料清單Reportdocumentedwithcorrectionactionsoncetheproblemidentified&evaluated.如果發(fā)現(xiàn)問(wèn)題，報(bào)告文件上應(yīng)有改善或糾正方案和行動(dòng)Duplicatedtrimcardswithsamplesforeachrelevantproductionsections.所有相關(guān)生產(chǎn)部門(mén)都必須有輔料卡與輔料實(shí)樣214.Sewing車(chē)縫Sewinglinesshouldbewellorganizedandsetupneatlyinordertogivethemosteffectiveproductionflow.車(chē)縫線應(yīng)該有完善的管理并設(shè)定高效生產(chǎn)流程Appropriatemachineryisequippedtoenhancetheworkmanship&productivity;使用適當(dāng)?shù)脑O(shè)備有助于提高工藝和產(chǎn)能Appropriateattachments,guides,folders&templatesareusedtoenhancethequalityconsistencyandproductivity.Piecesoftapearenotconsideredtobeappropriateguides.適當(dāng)?shù)妮o助工具，指引書(shū)，文件和模板將有助于保持品質(zhì)的一致和效能的提高，Skillleveloftheoperatorsandqualitymind-setofthesupervisors/Managementsupportingthecontinuedqualityimprovement.工人的技能水平和管理人員的心態(tài)都會(huì)影響到品質(zhì)的持續(xù)提高程度Monitoringeachprocessatrighttiming,notonlyforqualitybutforproductioncontrol.在適當(dāng)時(shí)間內(nèi)監(jiān)管每道工序，不單只是品質(zhì)而是整個(gè)生產(chǎn)控制22Machinemaintenance&repair設(shè)備保養(yǎng)和維修PreventativeMaintenanceProgramssetuptoensureallsewingequipmentisingoodcondition:制定設(shè)備防護(hù)檢修系統(tǒng)，保障設(shè)備維持良好狀態(tài)Dailymaintenance&cleanlinesschecklist每日維護(hù)和清潔的檢查記錄Monthlymaintenancerecordincludingoilrefill/change,changeorrepairofmachinepartsandtable.月度維護(hù)記錄需包括加機(jī)油的補(bǔ)充/更換，零部件/臺(tái)板的維修/更換Rovingmechanicatsewingfloors.車(chē)間里流動(dòng)/共享設(shè)備23Brokenneedlepolicy斷針管理Brokenneedlecontrolpolicyinplace:張貼斷針管理?xiàng)l例Writtenprocedures/flowchartdisplayed展示換針的程序和流程圖Brokenneedlechangeprocedureandrecord;斷針更換程序和記錄Actiontoberecordedforunfoundbrokenparts.沒(méi)有找全斷針部分的處理行動(dòng)Aswellasabrokenneedleproceduretheremustbeapolicyinplacetoroutinelychangeneedles.完善的斷針管理流程和固定的換針地方24Sewinglines車(chē)縫線Approvedsamplewithcomments,trimcard&updatedtechpack:確認(rèn)樣與評(píng)語(yǔ)，輔料卡和最新的工藝單Visibleatsewinglineandeasilyaccessible;放在當(dāng)眼處和便于取用比對(duì)translatedinlocallanguage使用當(dāng)?shù)卣Z(yǔ)言Informationboardsattheendofthesewingline,listingdatasuchas:生產(chǎn)詳情表設(shè)在車(chē)縫線后面，包括以下內(nèi)容Feed-onquantity計(jì)劃產(chǎn)量Targetquantity目標(biāo)產(chǎn)量Feed-offquantity實(shí)際產(chǎn)量Defectiverate次品比率RFT(Right-first-time)rate良品比率MostrecentTOP3defectsoftheline線上比率最高的3大問(wèn)題Completedbythelinesupervisor線長(zhǎng)的工作Anyqualityissuefindings發(fā)現(xiàn)的品質(zhì)問(wèn)題Bottle-neckoperation影響產(chǎn)能的問(wèn)題25Sewingline(cont’d)Machineadjustment設(shè)備調(diào)校Verifystitchingdensity(SPI)&tensiondailyoranynewoperation/newstylestarted.每天/換工序/換款時(shí)檢查設(shè)備線跡密度和松緊Mock-ups/standardoperation:操作標(biāo)準(zhǔn)Aneffectivewayofcommunicatingstandardsamongsewers,supervisors&QC

在工人/線長(zhǎng)/主管或QC中建立暢通有效的溝通途徑Settingtheacceptablespecimenofeachcriticaloperations為每個(gè)工序設(shè)定可接受的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)26Sewingline(cont’d)Systematicprocedureinplace:Roving(in-line)QC:巡檢Evidenceshowsalloperationareinspectedaminimumofevery2hours.每2小時(shí)的巡檢記錄Records/systemsshowingtheproblemsareidentified,documented,corrected&followuponcorrections.記錄/系統(tǒng)上可以找到發(fā)現(xiàn)的問(wèn)題，記錄，改正和跟進(jìn)的方案Closecommunicationwiththeend-lineQCtocalibratewhethertheproblemfindingsarealignedorcorrected.與終檢QC統(tǒng)一所出現(xiàn)問(wèn)題的檢驗(yàn)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)27Sewingline車(chē)縫Systematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):End-lineQC:終檢100%checkingthefinishedgarmentsattheworkstationwithsufficientspace&wellilluminated;在充足的位置和燈光下百分百檢驗(yàn)成品Visualreferenceofdefectavailable.有瑕疵問(wèn)題參照樣Consistentinspectionsequencethroughoutallgarments(Method);按統(tǒng)一順序檢查所有成品Defectivefindingsaredocumentedbykeydefectitems,e.g.brokenstitches,skippedstitches,puckeringseam/stitches,hole,stain,…檢驗(yàn)記錄上標(biāo)記以下主要問(wèn)題，如斷線，跳線，車(chē)線/拼縫皺縮，破洞，油污等Defectivegarmentsareseparatedintoidentifiedboxessuchasrepairs,stainsorseconds瑕疵品分別堆放，如返修，洗污或二等品Randomlycheckthemeasurementsanddocument

抽量尺寸并記錄28SewinglineSystematicprocedureinplace(cont’d):Dailyqualitybriefing:品質(zhì)日記Atendofdayorfirstthinginthemorning,QAManagertoholdashortbriefingwiththerovingQC/endlineQCs,thelinesupervisorandthemechanictoanalyzethedefectivereportrecordsandidentifytheTOP3Defectsforsolution.每天的早上或晚上，品質(zhì)主管召集巡檢QC/終檢QC，線長(zhǎng)和機(jī)修工一起分析研究報(bào)告上前3個(gè)主要問(wèn)題的解決方案Ifthisprocessiseffectivethenthetop3shouldbedifferentdaily!如果這些解決方案是有效的，那么出現(xiàn)在每天報(bào)告上的前3個(gè)主要問(wèn)題應(yīng)該是不相同的29Sewingline(cont’d)Housekeeping車(chē)間維護(hù)Clean&tidy;干凈和整齊Allsewingmachinetables,workstations&binsmustbefreeoftape,stickers&snags;所有設(shè)備臺(tái)，工作位置和工具柜不應(yīng)該有貼紙和破損Cutpanelorsemi-productmustbewellcoveredandkeptproperly;裁片和半成品應(yīng)該覆蓋和擺放在適當(dāng)?shù)牡胤絅owhite(orlight)colorgoodsmixedwithdarkcolorrunningatthesamesewinglineorkeptatthesamestoragerack.深淺色的產(chǎn)品不可以在同一線上生產(chǎn)或擺放在同一地方Lightorwhitecoloredgarmentsshouldbekeptinpolybagsthroughouttheproductionprocess.淺色產(chǎn)品在整個(gè)生產(chǎn)過(guò)程必須用膠袋包裹305.Finishing&PackingControls后整和包裝

Thisareaalsoneedstobeeffectivelyengineeredtoensureseparationofgoodsbycustomer,style,colorandsize.Thiswillassistinpreventingunnecessarypackingerrors.產(chǎn)品按照客戶(hù)，款式，顏色和尺碼分開(kāi)堆放，可以防止或避免包裝錯(cuò)誤PackingareaisC-TPATcompliancewhereallpackedgoodsarelocatedinanenclosedareathatallowonlyauthorizedpersonneltoenter.包裝部是反恐管制區(qū)域，成品箱只能存放在封閉區(qū)內(nèi)，只有活動(dòng)授權(quán)人員可以進(jìn)入封閉區(qū)31Buttoningsection(ifseparatefrommainproductionfloor)紐扣部門(mén)（是否不在生產(chǎn)車(chē)間內(nèi)）Apreventivemaintenanceprogramandroutinecleaningprocedureforequipment.設(shè)備的保養(yǎng)和日常清潔程序Eachbuttonholemustbelock-stitched,cleanlycutwithnorawedges;所有鈕門(mén)必須鎖底，開(kāi)口位整齊沒(méi)有毛口Eachbuttonmustbelock-stitchedbyLockstitchButtoningMachine.所有紐扣必須使用有底線鎖底的釘鈕車(chē)TheuseofManuallyOperatedPressestoapplysnapsisprohibited.

四合扣等扣子不接受使用手工操作的設(shè)備32Pressingsection燙燙部門(mén)Ensurethecleanlinessoftheareaandallpressingcovers.Pressingcoversshouldberoutinelychangedtoavoidthetransferofdirttogarments.熨燙區(qū)域和熨臺(tái)布必須整潔，熨燙臺(tái)布需每天更換，以避免衣服沾染其他顏色或臟污AllironswherenecessaryequippedwithTeflonshoes.如有需要熨斗需套上熨斗套Propertemplateormarkingusedtomaintainthegarmentshapeandmeasurement.熨燙時(shí)使用模板或在熨燙臺(tái)上按紙板畫(huà)出基本版型，保證衣服的版型和尺寸Pressingstandardisbriefedandsetforguidance.熨燙標(biāo)準(zhǔn)需簡(jiǎn)明清晰Nohighpilesofironedproducts.熨燙好的衣服不要堆疊擺放33Finalchecking終檢Finalinspectionbeforepacking:包裝前終檢Briefingthecriticalcheckingpointstoinspectors向檢驗(yàn)員提示檢驗(yàn)重點(diǎn)Garmentinspectionsequenceisconsistentthroughoutallgarments:成衣的檢驗(yàn)順序必須一致Inspectionfindingsareidentified,classified,recordedandreportedtomanagementforcorrection;有問(wèn)題的成衣需分類(lèi)并記錄向管理匯報(bào)，以便統(tǒng)計(jì)返修Workstationprovidessufficientspace&wellilluminated;檢驗(yàn)工作位需有充足的空間和燈光Visualreferenceavailable.有檢驗(yàn)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)樣Inspectorsaretrainedtomeasureaspercustomermanual:檢驗(yàn)員量尺需經(jīng)過(guò)培訓(xùn)以到達(dá)客戶(hù)要求AllgarmentsmustbecheckedonKeypoints.所有成衣必須量度重要部位Updatesizespecavailable使用最新的尺寸表Discrepanciesarereportedtomanagementforcorrection如有差異