第十二章

織物及其分類(lèi)本章知識(shí)點(diǎn)：1、織物的概念、分類(lèi)2、機(jī)織物、針織物、非織造布的定義、

分類(lèi)、用途3、織物加工原理織物(Fabric):

是把纖維集合在一起制成的較大、較薄的平板狀物體?？椢锏默F(xiàn)代定義是纖維，或紗線，或纖維與紗線按一定規(guī)律構(gòu)成的片狀(或展開(kāi)后成片狀)

的集合物?？椢锏亩x■Fabricclassifications■

According

to

market■

According

to

manufacturing

technology■

According

to

weight■

According

to

finishing

conditions

Introductionto

FabricsIntroductionto

Fabrics■

According

to

market■

Apparel■

Domesticorhome

furnishing■

Industrial3■

Accordingto

manufacturingtechnology■

Wovens■

Knits■

Braids■

Nonconventional

or

nonwoven●distinguishable可區(qū)別的，可辨別的，易分辨的通常把經(jīng)紗與緯紗成直角交織而形成的織物叫機(jī)織物或梭織物。Woven

fabrics

aremade

by

interlacingtwosets

of

yarns

at

rightanglestoeach交織other.The

lengthwiseyarns

are

knownas

warp

yarns

or

ends

,whilethewidth-經(jīng)紗

/

經(jīng)紗wise

yarns

are

knownas

filling

yarns

or

picks

.The

lengthwise

edgesof

thefabric緯紗

/

緯紗are

the

selvages

.The

material.selvage

is

usuallyeasily

distinguishable

from

therestof

the布邊

WOvens warp

yarnsweft

yarnHaness綜

框Fig.10-1

SimplifiedHeddles綜絲Reed

鋼

筘Shuttle梭

子

Fillingyam

緯紗sketchof

a

twoharnessesloomWarpyarn

經(jīng)

紗Clothroll

卷

布

輥Cloth

布經(jīng)

軸Knitted

fabrics

may

be

described

as

structures

produced

by

the

interloopings

of

相互串套yarns.In

actual

construction

of

the

fabric,loops

are

formed;then

new

loops

aredrawn

through

those

previously

formed.The

construction

addition

ofnew

loopscreatestheknittedfabric.Knittedloopsareusually

referredto

as

stitcheswhen線圖they

are

pulled

through

another

loop.

定義：把紗制成線圈，再將線圈連接起來(lái)

而制成的織物稱(chēng)為針織物knittingTherearetwomainclassificationsof

knittedfabrics:weftknitsandwarpknits

(Fig.11-1,Fig.11-2).Each

uses

different

kinds

of

machinery

for

producing

fabricandeachproducesdifferenttypesof

fabrics.Examplesof

weftknitfabricsarethoseused

in

sweaters

andhosiery;examples

of

warpknit

fabrics

are

thoseusedintricotforlingerie.Handknitted

is

a

weft

knitted

procedure.Fig.11-1

Weft

knitfabric

Fig.11-2Warp

knit

fabric經(jīng)編針織物3■特點(diǎn)：蓬松柔軟，

富于延伸性和彈

性，透氣性好，不易折皺，舒適

合

體

。應(yīng)用：

內(nèi)衣、外

衣、運(yùn)動(dòng)服、襪

子、手套等，

特

別是要求松軟、輕薄質(zhì)地的產(chǎn)品，

如內(nèi)衣、T

恤、運(yùn)動(dòng)衣、羊毛衫、

襪子、手套、圍

巾

等

。Braids(knotwork)由紗線通過(guò)多種方法、包括用結(jié)節(jié)互相連接或鉤連而成的制品，如網(wǎng)、花邊等；ISO9002

賦予非織造材料的定義如下(用原文表示):A

manufacturedsheet,web

or

batt

of

directionally

or

randomlyorientated

fibers,bondedbyfriction,and/or

cohesionand/or

adhesion,excludingpaper(seenote)and

productswhicharewoven,knitted,tufted,stitch-bondedincorporating

bindingyarnsorfilaments,or

feltedbywet-

milling,whether

or

not

additionally

needled.The

fibers

may

be

of

natural

or

man-made

origin.They

may

be

staple

orcontinuousfilaments

or

beformed

in

site.Nonconventional

ornonwOvenINDA(International

Nonwovensand

DisposableAssociation)賦予非織造材料的定義如下(用原文表示):Nonwoven

fabrics

are

broadly

defined

as

sheet

orweb

structures

bonded

together

by

entangling

fiber

or

filaments

(and

by

perforating

films)mechanically,thermally

orchemically.They

are

flat,porous

sheets

that

are

madedirectly

from

separate

fibers

or

from

molten

plastic

or

plasticfilm.They

are

not

made

by

weaving

or

knitting

and

do

notrequire

converting

the

fibers

to

yarn.ASTM

賦予非織造材料的定義如下(用原文表達(dá)):A

structureproducedbybondingof

mechanical,chemical,thermal,

orsolvent

means

and

thecominationthereof.Thetermdoesnot

include

paperorfabrics

thatarewoven,knitted,tuftedorthose

made

by

wool

or

other

felting

processes.聚合物擠壓成網(wǎng)法紡粘法機(jī)械法化學(xué)法熱粘合法熔噴法膜裂法干

法化學(xué)粘合法浸漬法噴灑法泡沫法印花法溶劑粘合法機(jī)械加固針刺法水刺法縫編法濕園網(wǎng)法化學(xué)粘合熱粘合法熱熔法熱軋法法斜網(wǎng)法熱粘合非織造材料1:Random-laid

(air

laid)web層壓縫編點(diǎn)熔接4:Web

bonded

by

low-meltingfibres5:Web

bonded

by

spot

welding4:Stitch-bondedyarns(sample)1:Random-laid(airlaid)web粘合纖維網(wǎng)3:Adhesive

bonded

web■

Accordingtoweight■

LightMedium■

HeavyIntroductionto

Fabrics織物類(lèi)別棉織物毛織物絲織物精梳毛織

物粗梳毛織

物輕薄型<0.25<0.40<1.10<0.14中厚型0.25-0.400.40-0.601.10-1.600.14-0.28厚重型>0.40>0.60>1.60>0.28棉、毛、絲織物的厚度與類(lèi)型(單位：

mm)

Accordingtofinishingconditions■

Greige,gray

or

grey(坯布，本色布)■

Finished

(處理織物，成品布)—

織

布編織物針

織

物機(jī)

織

物織編織物編

織

物針

織

物機(jī)

織

物Unconventional

fabrics(特種織物)特種

織物平面型

結(jié)構(gòu)立體型

結(jié)構(gòu)Triaxial

weave(3)

(4)(5)幾種空芯機(jī)織物的截面圖(1)(2)→Warp(x)Angle

interlock

Filling(y)MultilayerfabricsWarpinterlockZ3D

orthogonal圖4四軸向經(jīng)編織物結(jié)構(gòu)圖立體編織物xy(3)幾種三維正交非織造物的結(jié)構(gòu)(2)(1)按織物染整方式：原色、漂白、染色、色織、印花、整理等織物按織物材質(zhì)風(fēng)格：平整、縐類(lèi)、凹凸起皺、凸條、光感、暗淡、粗獷、細(xì)膩、柔軟、硬挺、

薄透、厚重、質(zhì)實(shí)、起毛、起絨等織物民族傳統(tǒng)織物其它