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GlobalResearch
26August2019
Ⅷ
U.S.BeautyRetail
UBSEvidenceLabinside:What'sHappeninginBeautyRetail,2Q'19
Who'spositionedtogainfromBarneys'bankruptcy?
ThechallengesatBarneysserveasanotherreminderofhowretailerslikeULTAaregainingshareattheexpenseofothers.Approximately18%ofBarneysstoreshaveanUltalocationwithin5mins,while68%haveonewithina10mindrive.Further,thebiggestopportunitymaybeforretailerstostartcarryingbrandspreviouslyexclusivelysuppliedatBarneys.ForthefullBarneyschain,64%haveaSephoraina5mindrive.Inaddition,41%haveaNordstromand32%haveaMacy'sina5mindrive.
WeaksalestrendspersistedatJCPenney,whichlikelyaidedothers
JCPreporteda-9%compin2Q'19(-6%ingo-forwardcategories).OftheJCPstoreswithaSephora,59%haveanUltawithina5mindrive&78%haveonewithina10mindrive.Thisisup100bpsfrom1Q'19.Thus,ULTAisprobablytakingshare.Also,45%haveaMacy'swithina5mindrive.Only20%haveaSephoracompanyownedstorewithina5mindrive,suggestingit'sprobablynotrecapturingmuchlostsales.
Ourpricingsurveyfoundthespecialtybeautypricingenvironmentstable
Wereviewedpricesfor275topULTAproducts(asofJuly25)&otherretailers.Thekeyconclusionwasbeautypricingremainsrationalinthespecialtychannel.OnexactSKUmatcheswithULTA,Sephora'spriceswere0.1%moreexpensive(consistentwithApr),JWNwas-0.1%cheaper(in-lineinApr),&Macy'swas6.5%moreexpensive(-0.2%cheaperinApr).Wethinkthecompetitiveenvironmenthasbeensubduedinthespecialtybeautyanddepartmentstorechannelaspricingwasstablewithpriorperiods.
ManyofULTA'stopproducts&newitemsarenotavailableelsewhere
For175top-sellinggoodsatULTA,only51%wereavailableatM(49%inApr),38%atSephora(45%inApr),&22%atJWN(35%inApr).ThissuggeststheproductsdrivingUlta'ssalesarefrequentlynotavailableelsewhereinthespecialtybeautychannel.Inmass,39%weresoldatAMZN1P(42%inApr),29%atWMT1P(29%inApr),&18%atTGT(15%inApr).ThishighlightsthatmanyofUlta'sproductsareexclusivetothespecialtybeautychannel.Together,wethinkthesefactorsinsulateULTAfromcompetition,whichshouldsupportitssamestoresalesgrowth.
Equities
Americas
Retailers,Broadline
MichaelGoldsmith
Analyst
michael.goldsmith@+1-212-7132951
MichaelLasser
Analyst
michael.lasser@+1-212-7132440
JaySole
Analystjay.sole@+1-212-7133559
StevenStrycula
Analyst
steven.strycula@+1-212-7131428
PinarErgun,CFA
Analyst
pinar.ergun@+44-20-75686885
GustavoPirasOliveira,CFA
Analyst
gustavo.oliveira@+55-11-35136520
JulieZhuang,CFA
Analyst
julie.zhuang@+44-20-75671888
MWMT3PAMZN3PAMZN1P SephoraWMT1PJWN
TGT
SBH
Sephoraoffered38%of
ULTA's175top-selling
products
Figure1:ULTAtopproductsavailableatotherretailers
46%
39%38%
51%48%
29%
7%
22%18%
0%10%20%30%40%50%60%
Source:UBS
Figure2:ULTApricesrelativetoothersonLFLitems
20%
10%
0%
-10%
-20%
-30%
-40%
6%
0%
0%
-2%
-5%
-11%
-8%-10%
-23%
ULTA'spricesweregenerallyonparwithSephoraandNordstrominourmostrecentpricingsurvey
.
Macy'swaspricedatpremiumtoULTA
AMZN3P
WMT1P
WMT3P
SephoraMJWNSBHTGTAMZN
1P
Source:UBS
/investmentresearch
ThisreporthasbeenpreparedbyUBSSecuritiesLLC.ANALYSTCERTIFICATIONANDREQUIREDDISCLOSURESBEGINONPAGE49.UBSdoesandseekstodobusinesswithcompaniescoveredinitsresearchreports.Asaresult,investorsshouldbeawarethatthefirmmayhaveaconflictofinterestthatcouldaffecttheobjectivityofthisreport.Investorsshouldconsiderthisreportasonlyasinglefactorinmakingtheirinvestmentdecision.
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ2
TableofContents
?KeyTakeawaysPaee3
-Takeaway#1–WfooterlanswitfJCPelley/Senforastores?Paee4
-Takeaway#2–WfooterlanswitfBarleysNewYorkstores?Paee5
-Takeaway#3–ProbsatoterlanwitfULTAismalaeeablePaee6
-Takeaway#4–Cosmetiasstoresalesaaaeleratebil2Q'19Paee7
-Takeaway#5–SenforafasalareersoaialmebianreselaePaee8
-Takeaway#6–KylieCosmetias&MornfefatemalyfollowersPaee9
?MolitoriletfePriaileCltirolmelt–UBSCtibelaeLabPriaileIltellieelaePaee10
?MolitoriletfePriaileCltirolmelt–BeastyRetailPriaile&AtailabilityPaee12
?MolitoriletfeStoreLalbsaane–UBSCtibelaeLabStoreOterlanPaee19
?MolitoriletfeStoreLalbsaane–UBSCtibelaeLabDemoeranfiasPaee31
?MolitoriletfeStoreLalbsaane–UBSCtibelaeLabReeiolalCxnossrePaee34
?Annelbix1:MetfoboloeyPaee35
2
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ3
Seatiol1
KeyTakeaways
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ4
Takeaway#1–WhooverlapswithJCPenney/Sephorastores?
SenhopaSW?SSropeOteplanMarpiv
SephoraSWAS5Minutes10Minutes15Minutes10Minutes
JCPenney98%100%100%100%
?JCPelleyaoltilsestostrseeleilaafaleile
BathBodyWorks
87%
93%
95%
98%
LancomeSWAS
85%
90%
94%
98%
CTS
80%
97%
97%
98%
BareCscentualsSWAS
70%
79%
83%
91%
UrbanDecayCosmeticsSWAS
69%
74%
78%
85%
retaileltirolmelt.Itexneatsaaomnbealileof7#-8#il2019.AsssafweleteraeebUBS
SallyBeautySupply66%96%99%100%
CtibelaeLabbatatoibeltifytfosewitfeletatebletelofstoreoterlanwitfSenforastoreswitfilastoreatJCPelleyloaatiols.
Target64%89%93%95%
Walgreens61%94%98%98% UltaBeauty59%78%88%94% MACCosmeticsSWAS50%54%63%77%
Macy's45%49%56%69%
Kohl's43%72%87%94%
AvedaSWAS39%70%82%92%
MerleNormanCosmetics23%41%54%77%
Sephora
21%
28%
36%
59%
KiehlsSWAS
20%
25%
35%
60%
KerastaseSWAS
13%
32%
43%
66%
LUSH
11%
15%
21%
45%
BareCscentuals
11%
13%
19%
38%
Aveda
8%
11%
19%
40%
MACCosmetics
7%
10%
15%
39%
TheBodyShop
7%
9%
14%
31%
LOCCITANCSWAS
7%
9%
14%
35%
?SenforastoreswitfilastorefatealeletatebexnossretoULTA.Ata10milstebritetime,78#ofSenforastoreswitfilastoreaomneteswitfalULTAstore.Tfislsmberrisesto88#wfelaolsiberilea15milbritetime.
?RelatitetotfeDenartmeltStores,56#of
Senforastoreswitfilastoreaomnetewitfa
Nordstrom6%9%14%33%
Maay'salb14#ofSenforastoreswitfilastoreaomnetewitfaNorbstromwitfila15milstebritetime.
LOCCITANC6%9%16%40%
ArmstrongMcCall5%15%18%19%
Perfumania
5%
7%
12%
29%
SaksOffFifth
3%
5%
12%
33%
Kiehls
2%
3%
6%
22%
Bloomingdale's
2%
2%
4%
12%
LouisTuittonInternational
1%
2%
5%
23%
LouisTuittonInternationalSWAS
1%
2%
3%
13%
UrbanDecayCosmetics
1%
1%
1%
3%
SaksFifthAvenue
1%
2%
3%
13%
Bluemercury
1%
4%
9%
28%
BarneysNewWork
0%
1%
1%
6%
BergdorfGoodman
0%
0%
0%
0%
?SenforastoresfaaebireataomnetitiolfromSallyBeasty.96#ofSenforastoreswitfilastore
aomnetewitfSallyBeastyata10milstebritetime.Tfeoterlanrisesto99#wfelaolsiberilea15milstebritetime.
4
Source:UBSCvidenceLab
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ5
BarneysNewYorkStoreOverlapMatrix
Takeaway#2–WhooverlapswithBarneysNewYorkstores?
Nodstrom5Minutes10Minutes15Minutes10Minutes
BareCscentualsSWAS73%82%95%100%
?TfeafalleleesatBarleysserteasalotferremilberoffowretailerslikeULTAare
LOCCITANC73%77%82%95%
CTS68%95%95%100%
LancomeSWAS68%77%91%100%
AvedaSWAS68%77%86%95% Sephora64%64%77%95% KiehlsSWAS59%59%73%86%
MACCosmeticsSWAS55%68%82%95%
KerastaseSWAS55%64%77%95%
MACCosmetics55%55%73%86%
BathBodyWorks50%82%95%100%
SaksOffFifth45%73%82%95%
LUSH45%50%59%86%
eaililesfareattfeexnelseofotfers.
?BarleysNewYorkfasreaeltlyfillebfor
balkrsntayalbisexneatebtoalosemostofits19loaatiols.AsssafweleteraeebUBSCtibelaeLabbatatoibeltifytfosewitf
eletatebletelofstoreoterlan.
Walgreens
41%
86%
95%
100%
UrbanDecayCosmeticsSWAS
41%
68%
91%
100%
Kiehls
41%
55%
59%
77%
Bloomingdale's
41%
55%
59%
68%
TheBodyShop
41%
45%
59%
77%
?BarleysNewYorkstoresfatealeletateb
exnossretoSenfora.Ata5milstebrite
time,64#ofBarleys'storesaomnetewitfa
41%
55%
82%
Nordstrom
41%
LouisTuittonInternationalSWAS36%41%45%59%
Aveda36%36%59%77%
Target32%86%91%100%
Macy's32%59%73%100%
Senforastore.Tfislsmberrisesto77#wfelaolsiberilea15milbritetime.
LOCCITANCSWAS32%45%68%82%
?Barleysfaaesrelatitelymobestletelsof
LouisTuittonInternational
32%
41%
45%
64%
Perfumania
32%
36%
41%
68%
BareCscentuals
32%
32%
36%
55%
SaksFifthAvenue
27%
27%
45%
55%
Bluemercury
23%
45%
55%
82%
UltaBeauty
18%
68%
86%
100%I
aomnetitiolfromULTAata5milstebrite
SallyBeautySupply18%68%91%100%
JCPenney
5%
18%
41%
86%
SephoraSWAS
5%
18%
41%
86%
Kohl's
5%
9%
45%
95%
BergdorfGoodman
5%
5%
9%
14%
MerleNormanCosmetics
0%
0%
18%
64%
ArmstrongMcCall
0%
0%
0%
0%
UrbanDecayCosmetics
0%
0%
0%
0%
timeasolly18#ofitsstoresarealosetoalULTAattfisbritetime.Tfosef,itilareasesto68#ata10milstebritetime,alb86#ata15milstebritetime.
?RelatitetotfeDenartmeltStores,41#ofBarleys'storesaomnetewitfaMaay'salb32#ofBarleys'storesaomnetewitfa
Norbstromwitfila5milstebritetime.
5
Source:UBSCvidenceLab
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ6
Takeaway#3–ProductoverlapwithULTAismanageable
?IltfeAsesst2019ebitiolofosrnriailessrteyof175ton-sellilenrobsatsatULTA,malyitemsbritileULTA'ssaleswerel'tatailableatotferretailers.TfisfieflieftstfatULTAiswellilsslatebfromaomnetitiol.
-Forexamnle,olly51#wereatailableatMaay's,38#wereatailableatSenfora,alb22#wereatailableatNorbstrom.
-Similarly,olly39#wereatailableatAmazol1P,29#wereatailableatWalmart1P,alb18#wereatailableatTareet.
?Similarly,ULTAiswellnositiolebilitskeyaateeory,makesn(aosmetiasrenreselteb51#ofitstotalsalesilFY'18).Also,itston25makesnSKUsoterlanwitfotferretailersfasaomebowlsilaeosrlastssrtey.
-72#wereatailableatMaay's(ts.80#ilAnr2019),68#atSenfora(ts.64#ilAnr2019),wfile40#atJWN(ts.56#ilAnr2019).
-Atailabilitytfroseftfemassafallelaoltilsestobelimiteblimiteb.Olly4#wereatailableatAMZN1PalbWMT1Peaaf,wfileloleatTGT.
ULTA25Top-SellingMakeupProductsAvailableatOtherBeautyRetailers
51%48%
MWMT3PAMZN3PAMZN1P SephoraWMT1PJWN
TGT
SBH
%
46%
39%
38%
\
Sephoraoffered45%ofULTA's
175top-sellingproducts
29%
22%18%
7%
ULTA175Top-SellingProductsAvailableatOtherBeautyRetailers
AMZN3P MSephoraWMT3PJWN
88%
carriedakeupTnone
%
80%72
80
%
68%
68%
dWMT1Peach25top-sellingmULTA,whileTG
64
40%
52%
56%
AMZN1Panonly4%ofproductsat
WMT1PAMZN1PTGT
4%
8%
124%
0%
0%
SBH
0%
0%
0%20%40%60%80%100%Jul25,2019Apr24,2019
0%10%20%30%40%50%60%
6
Source:UBS
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ7
Takeaway#4–Cosmeticsstoresalesacceleratedin2Q'19
?Sneaifiaally,SnelbTrelbbollartolsmeerowtfataosmetiasstoresilareaseb4.3#year-oter-yearbsrileULTA's2Q'19,alimnrotemeltfrom3.2#il1Q'19.
?Also,tfebatailbiaatestfeaateeorystartebstrolewitfa5.3#ilareaseilMayalb4.9#erowtfilJsle.Bst,trelbsslowebalittleilJslytoa2.8#ilarease.
?Tferefasbeelal85#aorrelatiolbetweelULTA'sosarterlysamestoresalesalbbollartolsmeerowtfafaleeilaosmetiassilae2Q'14.
DollarVolumeGrowthCosmeticStoresvs.ULTAQuarterlyComp
18.0%15.0%12.0%9.0%6.0%3.0%0.0%
3Q'144Q'141Q'152Q'153Q'154Q'151Q'162Q'163Q'164Q'161Q'172Q'173Q'174Q'171Q'182Q'183Q'184Q'181Q'192Q'19C——CosmeticsStoreSpendTrend(LHS)——ULTAComp(LHS)
Source:Bloomberg,Companyreports,UBSCstimates7
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ8
Takeaway#5–Sephorahasalargersocialmediapresence
?UBSEvidenceLabhascollectedinteractiondatafrom1,000+brandpagesthathave2+millionpostsandacombined30+billioninteractionstounderstandrecenttrendsinpopularityonInstagram.
?SephorahasalargerfollowingonInstagramthanUlta.
?Onaverage,Ultareceivesaround1.5mmlikeseachweek.Sephoragetssignificantlymorelikes,includingapproximately~8mminJuly.Though,itisworthnotingthatSephorahasseenameaningfuldecelerationinthismetricsinceitspeakinApril.
?Atthesametime,Sephora'svideosonInstagramareconsiderablymoreoftenwatchedthanUlta's.Thatsaid,thismetrichasbeenvolatile.
?GivenUlta'slargerstorefootprint,wethinkthishighlightsanopportunityforUltatoimproveitsengagementthroughthischannel.
WeeilwlskbepodliiesolIlsraepakWeeilwtibeotiewsolIlsraepak
8
Source:UBSCvidenceLab
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ9
Takeaway#6-KylieCosmetics&Morphehavemanyfollowers
?KylieCosmetiasalbMornfeareamolemorenonslaralberowilebralbsatUlta.WeleteraeebUBSCtibelaeLabbatatoseefowtfesebralbsfatebeeltrelbileolIlstaeram.
?KylieCosmetiasisterynonslarolIlstaeram.AsofJsly,KylieCosmetiasreaeitebalateraeeof14mmlikesweekly.
?MornfealsofasalareeIlstaeramfollowile.Tfebralbreaeiteslearly5mmolaweeklybasis.Ilterestilely,trelbsfateslowebbowlreaeltlyforbotfbralbs.
?Also,KylieCosmetiasrelatebtibeosarewatafebmoreofteltfalMornfe's.
WeeilwlskbepodliiesolIlsraepakWeeilwtibeotiewsolIlsraepak
Source:UBSCvidenceLab9
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ10
Seatiol2
MonitoringthePricingEnvironment–UBSEvidenceLab
PricingIntelligence
ULTA'slike-for-likeSKUspricingwaslowerthanlastyear
?UBSCtibelaeLabnriaeiltellieelaefartestebbeastynrobsatofferilesfromlearly30retailerwebsitesaaross7aosltriessilaeOatober2015.Tfebatabaselowtotalsoter33milliolreaorbs.Olessefortfebatabaseistobetermiletrelbsilyear-oter-yearnriaile.
?DsriletfemoltfsofULTA's2Q'19,itsnriaileollike-for-likenrobsatswas-0.4#loweryear-oter-year.Ilnartiaslar,itsnriailewasbowl-0.4#ilMayalbbowl-0.5#ilJslealbJsly.
?Foraomnarisol,like-for-likebeastynriailebsriletfesameneriobwassn2.2#atNorbstrom,albsn0.7#atMaay's
?ForAmazol,nriaileollike-for-likeSKUswasbowl-0.7#.Sneaifiaally,itwasbowl-1.0#ilMay,-0.4#ilJsle,alb-0.3#ilJsly.
Liie-dop-LiieWeap-Otep-WeapBeasrwPpiaeTpelb
4.0%3.0%2.0%1.0%0.0%-1.0%-2.0%-3.0%-4.0%-5.0%
ULTA'ssameSKUpricingwas-0.4%loweryear-over-year
duringits2Q'19.Amazon'spricingwasalsodown,while
NordstromandMacy'spricngwasupduringthesameperiod
Nordstrom
Macy's
Amazon
ULTA
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ11
Nov-17Dec-17Jan-18Feb-18Mar-18Apr-18May-18Jun-18Jul-18Aug-18Sep-18Oct-18Nov-18Dec-18Jan-19Feb-19Mar-19Apr-19May-19Jun-19Jul-19
Source:UBSCvidenceLab11
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ12
Seatiol3
MonitoringthePricingEnvironment–BeautyRetailPricing&
Availability
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ13
WhatistheproductoverlapwithULTA?
?ToassessnrobsatoterlanbetweelULTAalbotferbeastyretailers,weretiewebtfeton25best-sellile
nrobsatsolULTA'swebsiteaaross7aateeoriesaswellas100lewarritalsasofJsly25,2019.Weaomnarebtfislistof275nrobsatstotfewebsitesofotferretailersforatailabilityalbnriaile.
-ULTA'soterlanwitfWalmart1PalbAmazol1PiltfeMakesnaateeoryremailslimiteb.BotfWalmart1PalbAmazol1PaarriebollyolemakesnitemfromULTA'ston25iltfeaateeory(4#).
-Similarly,Walmart1PalbAmazol1PfatelittleoterlanwitfULTA'sNewArritalsaateeory.Sneaifiaally,Walmart1Paarriebolly3,wfileAmazol1Paarriebolly9ostof100ULTA'sNewArritals.
-Attfesametime,SenforafaslimiteboterlanwitfULTAiltfeNailsalbNewArritalsaateeories.Sneaifiaally,loleofULTA'ston25nrobsatsiltfeNailsaateeorywasatailableatSenfora,wfileitoffereb19ofULTA's100lewestitems.
ULTATop-SellingProductsAvailableatKeyBeautyRetailersbyCategory(July25survey)
Sephora
M
JWN
SBH
TGT
AMZN1P
AMZN1P
WMT1P
WMT1P
Makeup
68%
72%
40%
0%
0%
4%
88%
4%
68%
Nails
0%
8%
0%
44%
28%
52%
16%
20%
56%
Skincare
52%
32%
20%
0%
24%
24%
68%
24%
52%
Haircare
4%
40%
8%
0%
24%
56%
40%
44%
40%
Fragrance
80%
92%
60%
0%
0%
52%
40%
48%
48%
BathandBody
20%
40%
8%
0%
36%
36%
40%
20%
24%
Men
40%
72%
20%
8%
12%
52%
32%
40%
48%
NewArrivals
19%
12%
20%
0%
3%
9%
27%
3%
19%
Source:Companyreports,UBS13
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ14
WhatisthehistoricalproductoverlapwithULTA?
?Otertfelilessrteyiteratiols,Senforafasaolsisteltlyaarriebabost40#ofULTA'ston175nrobsats,ilalsbile38#iltfelatestebitiol.Tfismaysseeesttfattfere'selosefroomforbotfretailersto
onerate,eteltfosefbotfaomneteiltfesneaialtyafallel.
?WfileMaay'sfasbeelaarryilemoreofULTA'stonnrobsats,Norbstrom'soterlanfasbealilebreaeltly.Sneaifiaally,Maay'saarrieb51#,wfileNorbstromoffereb22#oftfebestsellileitemsatULTAilJsly25ssrtey.Tfisaomnaresto49#alb35#,resneatitely,lastosarter.
?ULTA'stonnrobsatsofferileatAmazol1Pfasbeeltolatiletfroseftfefistoryofosrssrtey.Iltfelatestebitiol,Amazolaarrieb39#ofULTA'ston175nrobsats,aomnarebto42#ilAnril2019alb36#il
Sentember2017.Senarately,Walmartoffereb29#ofULTA'stonnrobsats,illilewitftfenretiossebitiolalbsnfrom17#ilosrfirstiteratioloftfessrtey.
60%
51%
48%
50%
46%
39%
38%
40%
29%
30%
22%
18%
20%
7%
10%
ULTATop-SellingProductsAvailableatOtherKeyBeautyRetailers
0%
SephoraMJWNSBHTGTAMZN1PAMZN3PWMT1PWMT3P
uSep20,2017uDec19,2017uMar7,2018uMay31,2018Aug21,2018Oct31,2018uJan24,2019aApr24,2019uJul25,2019
Source:Companyreports,UBS14
U.S.BeautyRetail26August2019Ⅷ15
WhatisthehistoricalmakeupoverlapwithULTA?
?Amazol1PalbWalmart1PofferilesofULTA'ston25makesnnrobsatsfatebeellimitebtfrosefosttfefistoryofosrssrtey.Tfisaateeoryrenreseltsoter50#ofULTA'sallsalsales.
-Olateraee,olly5#fatebeelaarriebbyAmazol1Palb4#fatebeelofferebbyWalmart1P.WetfilktfisfieflieftsULTA'snrobsatmixbiffereltiatiolfromtfemassafallelwfiafilsslatesitfromaomnetitiol.
-Atailabilitytfrosef3PsellersolAMZN&WMTisfief,bstnriaes
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