MERCHANDISING(SHOES)COURSE

（跟單之鞋業(yè)課程）HANDBAGMANUFACTURECOURSE（鞋業(yè)制造課程）DesignedbyZoe@L&FCONTENTSShoesmanufacturefromdevelopmentstodelivery

(鞋業(yè)制造-從開發(fā)到出貨）ProcedureforShoesmanufacture（鞋業(yè)制造流程）TerminologyofShoesprocedure

（鞋業(yè)工序?qū)I(yè)術(shù)語）Specifications(分類）DressingFlat–closeshoesFlat–sandalSpecifications(分類）HeelWedgeSlipperSpecifications(分類）Boots10”height14”heightShoesmanufacturefromdevelopmenttodelivery

(鞋業(yè)制造-從開發(fā)到出貨）Redtagsample（大版或紅牌版）Revisedsample（修改版）Quoteprice（報價）Protosample（出初版）Pattern（出紙格）SketchDrawing，（圖紙）PPsample（產(chǎn)前版或綠牌版）Placeorder（正式訂單）

sourcing<-->plan（工廠內(nèi)部物控、采購原料，計劃）Processanalysis（工藝分析）PPmeeting（產(chǎn)前會議）cutting<->pre-processarrange（開料，前工序安排）

Painting（油邊）Assembling（成型）Sole（底部）UpperGluing（面部）Skiving（鏟皮）Delivery（出貨）Packing（包裝）clean<-->fixshape<-->trimming（清潔，定形，剪線）ProceduresforShoesmanufacture

（制造流程）Step1:Prepareforproduction(第一步：生產(chǎn)準(zhǔn)備）Thatisprepareworking,likesourcingrawmaterialandtrim,trimcounter,physicalandchemicalstestingformaterialandhardware,procedureplanningandanalysis.（準(zhǔn)備生產(chǎn)原料，生產(chǎn)原料的化學(xué)、物理測試，生產(chǎn)計劃，生產(chǎn)工藝分析）Rawmaterial/Trim:Leather,PVC,PU,Fabric,Nylon，Bondedleather（生產(chǎn)主原料/配料有皮，人造革（PVC/PU),布料，尼龍料，再生皮等）Reinforcingmaterial:Suede,Plastic,Nonwovenfabric,leatherpaper，Nylon,webbing，paperboard(補(bǔ)強(qiáng)物料:牛筋皮，雜膠料，不織布，皮糠紙，牛筋尼龍，織帶，紙皮）Step2:Cutting（第二步，開料）AccordingtoB.O.M

andcomparethefactoperationtoworkoutthematerialusage,thenarrangethediecutmould,matchthedirectionstocut

(ifproduceleatherhandbagstillneedmatchgrain,colorandmarkalabel,thenwrapitbylot),etc,pleasereferbelowphotosformoredetails

.(根據(jù)物料清單和對比實際運作中損耗來算出物料的用量，然后安排打刀模，開料時要分方向來開料，開皮料時，還要配紋配色來開料。皮料開好后。要將配好套的物料編好號碼。防止生產(chǎn)過程中弄混淆，另外開的物料要小心保存，如布料是不能折，特別是絲印料要分隔開以免絲印色弄臟料，更多祥情請見以下圖片）Step2:Cutting（第二步：開料-畫好的皮料）Step2:Cutting（第二步，開料圖片-畫皮料）Step2:Cutting（第二步，開料圖片-將畫好的皮料開裁）Step2:diecutmould(刀模）Step3:Pre-processarrangement（第三步：前序工作安排）Somepartsofshoesmustbeproducebeforeothersprocedure,suchasembossing,assemblingandsewing.（有些零部件是可以先做，如電壓，打釘或其它應(yīng)車的小部件）Step3:Pre-processarrangement(第三步：前序工作安排圖）Step4:Skiving（第四步，鏟皮）skivepaneltoreducethicknessforimprovinghairyorhandfeeloreasyworkingSkiveedgetoreducethicknessforeasyworkingandgoodshape，butplsnote,forsomeareawhichwillbeunderveryhighforce,afterskivingedge,maybeneedtoaddverystrongthinnylonreinforcement.（鏟皮分為大鏟和小鏟）大鏟是將整個裁片都鏟到統(tǒng)一厚度，有時皮沒有里布，整個裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大鏟處理。將毛底鏟干凈些。另外有時裁片太厚身，要改進(jìn)手感，需將整個裁片鏟到合理厚度。）小鏟，小鏟就鏟邊位，是為了生產(chǎn)過程中易做(如折邊，包邊等工序），且外形美觀要將皮邊位鏟薄到適當(dāng)厚度。有時要留意受邊部位不能鏟的太薄或鏟后需加托一層薄的尼龍補(bǔ)強(qiáng)。Step4:Skiving（第四步，鏟皮圖）Step5:Gluing(第五步：擦膠水）Forsomepartsneedtogluingbeforefolding,sewingandassembling.(有些裁片，部件，五金，在折邊，車縫和安裝工序前是要擦膠水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一個是使鞋壽命加長）Gluehaveyellowglue,powderglue,milkyglue,447glue,Aglue,redglue,etc(膠水分為粘性較強(qiáng)的膠水，如黃膠、447膠，A膠，紅膠，乳膠粘性次之，粉膠粘性最弱）Fordifferentrawmaterials,needtousedifferentglue.Suchlining,needtousepowderblue,PVCwithfabricbackingwhichusedasreinforcement,canusemilkyglue,otherreinforcement,usestrongadhesiveglue.Hardwareuseredglue(不同材料要用不同特性的膠水，里布要通常用粉膠，用其他膠水易滲膠。補(bǔ)強(qiáng)料膠水通常用較強(qiáng)的膠水。起針、收尾線頭用較強(qiáng)的A膠，五金常用紅膠等，布底的PVC料可用乳膠）Step5:Gluing

(第五步：擦膠水圖示）Step5:Gluing

(第五步：擦膠水圖示）Step6:Painting（第六步：油邊）Likesomepanelrawedgeofhandbag(exceptforfolding,jeanseam)needtostainsomeoil.Thatmeanpaintalayeroil,oilcolormaybematchorcontrastingcolor.(有些原邊是需要油邊效果（但折邊和車反除外）Basicoperationforpainting（基本油邊操作）Primerapplication(打底）Paintapplication（油邊）Buff（打磨，拋光）ContinueBasicoperationforpainting（油邊基本操作）Secondpaintapplication,Thecustomerwillrequiretheedgepaintingeffect,butthedifferentcustomeralsohavedifferentstandard.Butonepointissamethatistheedgestainwillsoftenandstickwhenthetemperatureishighsuchasinthesummer.sointheseasonweneedtoaddtheproperanti-agent.Ontheotherhand,inthewinter,weneedtoaddtheanti-cracksubstanceduototheedgepaintingiseasytocrack（不同的客人對油邊有不同的要求，主要看不同品牌的價位來定。另外邊油在夏天時要耐高溫和冬天時要耐低溫。所以有時因季節(jié)性改變要向邊油中加一些防爆防粘劑。冬天加防爆劑，夏天加防粘劑）Basicoperationforpainting（油邊基本操作圖片）Step7:Sewing（第7步：車縫）Thestitchingisveryimportantintheshoesproductionprocessduetothecomplicatedstructure.beforecutting,soaplanisneedtomakehowtoassemblingtherelatedcomponent.setthestitchingmethodandqualitystandard.Iftheproductionflowisreasonable,itdirectlyinfluenttheproductivityandproductquality.

(因鞋類復(fù)雜的結(jié)構(gòu)，車縫工作是很重要的。在開大貨物料前，要就根據(jù)所批的樣版來計劃如何車縫，定下車縫方法和車縫標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。如果車縫流程得當(dāng)?shù)脑?。可能大大提高生產(chǎn)效力，并影響產(chǎn)品的質(zhì)量）1.FlatBedSewingMachine（平車）Machinesewinggarmentsandothersproductsinvolvesewingtogethertwoormorepiecesofflatgoodswhichthetoptreadinterlockswithbobbinthread.Itiseasyhaspuckerswhensewingsomethinmaterialasonlyasinglelayerofmaterialdeliverybybottomfeeding.（平車主是靠底部來推動送布料，所以車較厚身料是易起皺，起泡。一般來說，來車是用來車較薄身較輕的里布。）FlatBedSewingMachine（平車圖）2.UpperandLowerFeedSewingMachine（同步車）Thesewingtheoryissameasflatsewingmachine,differentisthemethodofdeliveringmaterial.Upperandlowerfeedsewingmachineissynchronizesthefeedofupperandlowerlayersofmaterialbytopandbottomfeedingmechanismwhilesewinginflationarymaterialsandlatentlymovablematerialsofmediumandheavyweight.Thesewingeffectisverysmoothlybutsewingthethinmaterialeffectisworsethanflatsewingmachine.(同步車是同平車一樣的道理來車原料，不同的是同步車上下同步來送裁片，同步車用來車較厚身和表面不平伏的物料，同步車不適合車薄身，輕身的布料）UpperandLowerFeedSewingMachine（同步車）7.ComputerSewingMachine（電腦車）8.Assembling（裝配五金）Assemblingincludesallthehardwareontheshoes,suchasinstallingmagnetic,hardwareLogo,eyelet,stud,chain,O-ring,buckle…andsoon.（裝配包括安裝所有的五金，如磁鈕，雞眼，撞釘，鏈條，圓環(huán)，扣等等）Assembling（安裝示意圖）Assembling（安裝示意圖）9.Qualitychecks（質(zhì)量檢查）Includefirstproductchecked,in-linecheckedandfinalinspectionsbaseon“PPsample”.Iftherearesomethingisdefect,QCshouldinformallrelevantcolleagueandftytosolveitimmediately.（質(zhì)量檢果，包括初檢，制程檢，成品檢，檢驗標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是根據(jù)所批的PP版，如發(fā)現(xiàn)不良，QC要通所有相關(guān)工廠人員和本司相關(guān)人員一同來解決問題）10.Packing（包裝）Procedureincludetrimming,cleaning,fixshape,stuffing,hanginghangtag,packing,label,storageetc.(此流程包括修剪線頭，清潔，定形，包裝，掛掛牌，貼標(biāo)簽，入庫，檢驗OK后出貨）Packing（包裝）Storage（倉庫庫存）ShoesSpecificTerm（鞋業(yè)分類）Shoesterms（專用術(shù)語）impression外觀inpair配雙innerbooty鞋舌內(nèi)套innerboxlabel內(nèi)盒標(biāo)innerbox內(nèi)盒innersole中底kidskin小羊皮kneeboot長靴knife刀子lace鞋帶lacehole鞋帶孔lacelock眼扣laceloop系帶鞋lacedshoe穿帶孔ladiesshoe淑女鞋lambskin羔羊皮last楦頭leather皮革leatherboard皮漿板leatherfootwear皮革鞋類leisureshoe休閒鞋length長度lining內(nèi)裡liningstamp鞋裡印刷logo商標(biāo)longheelgirth跟口圍度longheelplate長跟鐵片楦底loop魔術(shù)毛帶loose松散loosethread脫線loss損耗lowcut低統(tǒng)lowheelcasual低跟休閒鞋magicstrap魔術(shù)帶magictape粘扣帶magnethook磁扣mainmark正麥mould模具mutispandex佳積布nail釘子naildetector鐵釘探測器non-wovenfabric不織布notinpair不配雙one-piecebottom一片式大底o(hù)utsole大底packing包裝packinglist裝箱單packingmachine打包機(jī)paddedcollar有軟墊的領(lǐng)口painting噴漆paperfiller紙團(tuán)paperpattern紙版patterndesigner(patterncutter)紙樣剪裁師;樣版師pump高跟鞋reject次品rubber橡膠rubbersole橡膠底samplemaker樣品制作師sampleworkingpattern樣品生產(chǎn)紙樣sample樣品semi-product半成品senpor感應(yīng)器shoefinish鞋子表面處理shoetree鞋撐size尺寸slippers拖鞋stick黏著sticklength楦頭程度stiffener裡襯(補(bǔ)強(qiáng))stitching車縫9、春去春又回，新桃換舊符。在那桃花盛開的地方，在這醉人芬芳的季節(jié)，愿你生活像春天一樣陽光，心情像桃花一樣美麗，日子像桃子一樣甜