1、English on Clothing,Li Jinghua,Chapter 1 Materials for Clothing,1.Fibres 2.Yarns 3.Fabrics,Fibres,The difference between them is in the chemical nature of the polymer and in the physical structure. A number of fibres are made of the same polymer, cellulose, but while they are similar in many ways, t

2、here are also considerable differences (caused by the way in which the chemical cellulose is physically arranged to produce the fibre).,Classification,According to the origin of the polymer: Natural fibres: obtained directly from a plant or animal used largely as they occur naturally Regenerated fib

3、res: made from a natural polymer regenerated in a fibre form subjected to some chemical modification Synthetic fibres: made by industrial processes from polymers chemicals oil,Natural Fibres,Aesthetics: score Performance: variable Price: are tending to become higher,Cotton: good aesthetic image be c

4、omfortable to wear several performance drawbacks the cheapest :upwards,Cotton,Although growing is limited to frost-free areas, cotton is widely produced all over the world and owes part of its popularity to the fact that the seed (from which the cotton fibres are detached in processing) is a valuabl

5、e source of oil and protein, (both of which can be used as a foodstuff).,Linen,Aesthetic appeal: different; copy; handle More expensive Perform not well,Wool,high aesthetic image overestimate the performance qualities become increasingly expensive,others,From cellulose: hemp manilla jute Silk: expen

6、sive; high aesthetic value; creasing,jute,黃麻又叫做絡(luò)麻、綠麻。 黃麻的老家在中國，中國栽培黃麻的歷史悠久，至少有500年種植歷史。主要產(chǎn)區(qū)在長江以南，以浙江、廣東、臺灣三省栽培面積較大。 黃麻分為兩個種，一個是圓果黃麻，另一個是長果黃麻。黃麻纖維具有吸濕性能好、散失水分快等特點(diǎn)，主要用來紡織麻袋、粗麻布。,others,From animal hair: mohair alpaca,others,Cashmere llama vicuna,Regenerated fibres,Viscose: performance is markedly infe

7、rior to cotton; cheaper,modal,better performance than viscose; stronger; much nearer cotton; price is in between,acetate & triacetate,Cheap Fashion image Performance is markedly inferior to polyester & nylon. Price difference is not very great.,Synthetic fibres,Polyester: the most important man-made

8、 fibre second in total world usage a high standard of performance aesthetic image cheaper than all the natural fibres popularity,Synthetic fibres,Nylon: The reasons for this are partly aesthetic, i.e. the association of nylon with the warp knitted fabrics of 20 years ago but also include important t

9、echnological differences in processing and in ability to blend with other fibres.,Synthetic fibres,Acrylic fibre: It can be extremely price competitive with wool and it does have the advantage over the natural fibre that it is machine washable. Polyethylene & polypropylene fibres: low price relative

10、ly good properties usual poor aesthetics melting Elastane: stretch,Filament and staple,The natural fibres, with the exception of silk, are all in staple form, whereas man-made fibres can, in theory, be produced in both. In practice, market considerations now mean that viscose is available generally

11、only in staple form, with acetate and triacetate in filament.,Blends,The balance of aesthetics, performance and price in the choice of fibres has inevitably led to the production of blends. The objective is to achieve an optimum level (at which the factors are balanced) but the decision is often wei

12、ghted by the relative importance of one factor. Example: polyester+cotton blends Blends with a wide variety of fibres may simply result from the price advantage of re-using fibres (reclaimed from scrap garments), as in the cheap woolen type fabrics often used in skirtings.,Yarns,Staple fibres genera

13、lly require conversion into yarns as the first stage in the production of fabric. High bulk yarns High twist yarns,textured yarns,The problem is that the more work done in the production of a yarn, be it simply increasing twist or introducing variety, the higher the price.,Fabrics,Weaving Knitting: warp knitting weft knitting Non-wovens: fibre fabric,Homework:,Translate: P3 Fibres