1、Basic knowledge for Textile 紡織基礎(chǔ)知識,Textile Technical Training 紡織技術(shù)培訓(xùn) Silk & Wool 蠶絲 &羊毛,Silk蠶絲,Introduction 介紹 Silk amount in China & world 蠶絲產(chǎn)量分布 Varieties 品種 4 Characteristics 特點(diǎn) 5 Silkworm Growth & Cocoon 蠶的發(fā)育與蠶繭的形成 6 Silk manufacturing 蠶繭的工藝加工 7 Silk wear property 蠶絲的服用性能,1 Introduction 介紹,Silk

2、is a natural protein fiber. fine, horny, translucent, yellowish fiber produced by the silkworm in making its cocoon and covered with sericin, a protein. 蠶絲是一種天然蛋白質(zhì)纖維，纖細(xì)，透明，截面呈不規(guī)則三角形，色澤微黃，是蠶的腺分泌物吐出后凝固形成線狀長線，外層包覆絲膠。,2 Silk amount in China & world 蠶絲產(chǎn)量分布,Domestic: zhujiang Taihu Chengdu 國內(nèi)分布： 珠江 太湖 成都,

3、2 Silk amount in China & world 蠶絲產(chǎn)量分布,International: China India Uzbekistan Brazil 世界分布： 中國 印度 烏茲別克斯坦 巴西,77%,15%,1)、Home silk: Mulberry silk 家蠶絲：桑蠶絲； 2)、Wide silk: Tussah silk, Castor-oil plant silk, cassava silk 野蠶絲：柞蠶絲 、蓖麻蠶絲、木薯蠶絲等。,3 Varieties 品種：,The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized

4、 comes from the fibers triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. 桑蠶絲縱向平直光滑，截面呈不規(guī)則的三角形，使絲織物折射外觀色澤。 Tussah silk is coarser, flatter, yellower filament than the Mulberry silk. 柞蠶絲縱向表面粗燥，扁平，色澤比桑蠶絲黃。,4 Characteristics 特點(diǎn)：,1）Growth: egg Larva P

5、upa moth 蠶的發(fā)育： 經(jīng)過卵、幼蟲、蛹和成蟲（蛾）四個(gè)階段,5 Silkworm Growth & Cocoon 蠶的發(fā)育與蠶繭的形成,2）繭的形成 Cocoon 繭衣（外層）：蠶吐絲時(shí)，最初吐出的凌亂的絲縷，成為繭的蓬松外廓。（絲縷細(xì)，強(qiáng)度差，絲膠含量多，絹紡原料） 繭層（中層）：繭衣里面，絲縷繞成絲圈，結(jié)構(gòu)緊密，排列規(guī)則，是絲的主體。（絲較粗，強(qiáng)力好） 蛹（內(nèi)層）： 吐絲將近終了時(shí)疊合成的疏松層。（絲最細(xì)，發(fā)脆，絲膠含量少，絹紡原料）,1) In silk manufacture, the first operation is reeling. The cocoons, havin

6、g been sorted for color and texture, are steamed or placed in warm water to soften the natural gum. each cocoon may give from 610915 m of filament, This is called raw silk. 第一步是繅絲。蠶繭按色澤、質(zhì)地分類挑選，利用熱水使繭絲上的絲膠適當(dāng)膨潤和部分溶解，從而使繭絲分離下來形成生絲。每個(gè)繭可生成610-915m長絲。,6 Silk manufacturing 蠶繭的工藝加工,6 Silk manufacturing 蠶繭的工

7、藝加工,2) The next step, called throwing, is preparing the raw silk for the loom by twisting and doubling it to the required strength and thickness. 第二步是捻絲。生絲經(jīng)合并以達(dá)到一定要求的強(qiáng)度和纖度，成為絲紡原料。,6 Silk manufacturing 蠶繭的工藝加工,3) Finishing processes are varying and important. The silk is boiled off in soapsuds to rem

8、ove gum and prepare it for dyeing. Scouring or boiling causes loss of weight, Dyeing may be done in the yarn or in the piece. 后加工很重要。生絲在皂液中煮沸脫去絲膠形成熟絲以備染色。該工序會使絲纖維丟失重量。也可對紗線或織物染色。,7 Silk wear property 蠶絲的服用性能,SILK garments are prized for their luster, wearability and comfort. Silk absorbs moisture, w

9、hich makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. 絲綢服裝吸濕、透氣、有光澤，服用性能好，冬暖夏涼。因其對染料的高吸收性，很容易染成各種深色。 Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Silk dries quickly . Silk is also weakened by sunlight. Silk may yellow and fade with t

10、he use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk an be damaged by high alkali detergents and chlorine bleach. 大多數(shù)絲綢服裝必須手洗，洗后易干，避免日曬。因?yàn)榻z綢在高溫下會變黃褪色，應(yīng)墊布熨燙或蒸汽熨燙。絲綢織物在強(qiáng)堿和含氯漂白劑中易受到損傷。,Wool羊毛,1 Introduction 介紹 Wool amount 羊毛產(chǎn)量 3 Structure 形態(tài)結(jié)構(gòu) 4 Wool Classify 羊毛分類 5 Qualit

11、y and Grade 品質(zhì)和等級 6 Processing wool 羊毛加工 7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性,Mohair hair,Camel hair,Lama hair,Yak hair,Cashmere hair,1 Introduction 介紹：,1 Introduction 介紹：,Wool, applied to the soft, curly fibers obtained chiefly from the fleece of sheep, and used extensively in textile manufacturing. 羊毛是

12、一種柔軟、卷曲的纖維，主要取自于綿羊，廣泛應(yīng)用于紡織工業(yè)。,2 Wool amount 羊毛產(chǎn)量,3 Structure: 形態(tài)結(jié)構(gòu)：,1 Squama structure 2 Cortex structure 3 Medulla structure 羊毛由鱗片層、皮質(zhì)層、髓質(zhì)層組成。,4 Wool Classify 羊毛分類 (1),細(xì)毛 fleece,長毛 Long,半細(xì)毛 semi-fleece,粗毛 coarse,改良毛 Improved wool 土種毛 China wool,羊毛粗細(xì),羊種品系,5 Quality and Grade 品質(zhì)和等級,The value of wool

13、on the market depends primarily on fineness and length of fiber. Strength, elasticity, amount of crimp, uniformity, dirt, vegetable matter. are also considered. 羊毛品質(zhì)主要取決于毛纖維的細(xì)度，長度，同時(shí)包括強(qiáng)力，彈性，卷曲度和均勻度，雜質(zhì)等。,5 Quality and Grade 品質(zhì)和等級,1) Ranger for Average Fiber Diameter (micrometers). 支數(shù)毛，按羊毛平均細(xì)度評定 70支（1

14、8.120.0m）、 66支（20.121.5m）、 64支（21.623.0m） 60支（23.125.0m） Ranger for coarse wool content. 級數(shù)毛，按羊毛的粗腔毛含量評定。 一級、二級、三級、四級、五級。,6 Processing wool （1）羊毛加工,The first step in processing wool takes place on the farm or ranch with shearing, usually in the springtime just before lambing. then the buyers to judg

15、e the grade. 第一步是在牧場剪毛，通常選在春季母羊產(chǎn)羔前，然后定等。 Next step is washing the wool to remove grease（unrefined lanolin）, vegetable matter and other impurities. 第二步洗毛，以去除油脂,植物質(zhì)和其它雜質(zhì)。,6 Processing wool ( 2) 羊毛加工,Clean wools from batches or lots are blended-mixed mechanically at this stage. 之后，洗凈毛可按批混合后用于后加工。 Each

16、wool fiber absorbs dyes so deeply that dyeing at any processing stage. 每根羊毛纖維在各道工序中都能深深地吸附染料。 Stock-dyed 原毛染色 Yarn-dyed 紗線染色 Piece-dyed 面料染色,6 Processing wool (3) 羊毛加工,The carding process passes the clean and dry wool through a system of wire rollers to straighten the fibers and remove any remaining

17、 vegetable matter，create narrow continuous ropes of fiber called “slivers”. 粗梳工序：干凈、干燥的羊毛通過粗梳工序，以除去殘余的植物質(zhì)，拉伸纖維，生成毛條。,7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性,Resilience and Durability 回彈性和耐用性 Each wool fiber is a molecular coil-spring making the fiber remarkably elastic. The molecular crimp, along with the 3

18、-dimensional fiber, which allows wool fibers to be stretched up to 50%(wet)30%(dry).and bounce back to original shape when stress is released. 每根毛纖維分子按三維結(jié)構(gòu)排列，賦于其顯著的回彈性，濕態(tài)下50伸長，干態(tài)下30伸長，且可迅速回彈。 The flexibility of the wool fiber make it more durable. A wool fiber can be bent back on itself more than 20

19、,000 times without breaking. 羊毛的高延伸性使之更耐用。經(jīng)20，000次彎曲而不折斷。,7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性,2) Fiber Absorbency 吸濕性 Wool can easily absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy. It can creates a balance in moisture condition and protect the body in both cold and warm condi

20、tions. 羊毛可吸收自身重量30的水份而不感到潮濕；可在潮濕環(huán)境中平衡自身，從而使身體冬暖夏涼。 Wool keeps a layer of dry air next to the skin which helps to hold in body heat. 羊毛織物可在皮膚表面形成一層干燥膜，有利于控制皮膚表面溫度。,7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性,3) Felts naturally 羊毛的縮絨性 The physical structure of the outer scaly layer of the wool fiber contributes t

21、o wools unique property of felting . 羊毛表面的鱗片層使之具有獨(dú)一無二在縮絨性。 Under the mechanical action of agitation. Friction and pressure in the presence of heat and moisture, the scales on the edges of wool fibers interlock. 羊毛在濕熱作用下，經(jīng)機(jī)械外力擠壓攪動，鱗片層相互摩擦而緊密糾纏，形成 縮絨性。,7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性,4）Others 其它 Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing. Basically, Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen. 羊毛