中國傳統(tǒng)服飾英文剖析第1頁/共59頁ChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3Cheongsam第2頁/共59頁HanFu第3頁/共59頁HanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu

，isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,"thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan."（后數(shù)來朝賀，樂漢衣服制度）第4頁/共59頁StandardstylehistorySpecificstylebody第5頁/共59頁HistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu.第6頁/共59頁

TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.第7頁/共59頁theWesternZhouDynasty，theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleft第8頁/共59頁IntheEasternZhouDynasty，the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic（束腰外衣）andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.第9頁/共59頁SinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan（契丹）officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfu第10頁/共59頁Theterm"Hanfu"todescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystem第11頁/共59頁StandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdress第12頁/共59頁Hatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleof"traditional"Chinesegarb.Acomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovides第13頁/共59頁Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):Trousersorpants第14頁/共59頁Ontopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.第15頁/共59頁InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).第16頁/共59頁AtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.第17頁/共59頁Semi-formaldress

ApieceofHanfucanbe"madesemi-formal"bytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirt

bixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattached fromthewaistbelt

zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoat

guan(冠)oranyformalhats第18頁/共59頁FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment

(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping

(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldress第19頁/共59頁CourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.第20頁/共59頁SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanese

kimono,yukata,Korean

HanbokandtheVietnamese

áot?than.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad.第21頁/共59頁Costume

inTangDynasty

第22頁/共59頁1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?第23頁/共59頁BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeup第24頁/共59頁Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen’scostumeinTangdynasty：1)topless（上空裝，袒胸裝）2）exposedarm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）largesleeves5）longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.第25頁/共59頁Thisisthefamouspicture《簪花侍女圖》showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空裝，袒胸裝）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“綺羅纖縷見肌膚”“蟬翼羅衣白玉人

”第26頁/共59頁第27頁/共59頁

Theopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomen’scostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive.第28頁/共59頁

TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself.

第29頁/共59頁Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdresses

canbe

classifiedintothreecategories:

（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina第30頁/共59頁Pattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）iswornbywomen.

Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交領襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“對襟襦裙”.

Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齊腰襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齊胸襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.第31頁/共59頁（2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘謹,禮節(jié).第32頁/共59頁

AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.第33頁/共59頁officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace.

第34頁/共59頁HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?第35頁/共59頁First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.第36頁/共59頁Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.第37頁/共59頁

Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.第38頁/共59頁

Asanimportantculturalelement,woman’scostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.第39頁/共59頁Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.第40頁/共59頁

Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?第41頁/共59頁Cheongsam第42頁/共59頁OriginDevelopment第43頁/共59頁Origin——nameThe

namecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChina'sGuangdongProvince.

InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownas"qipao",whichhasahistorybehindit.第44頁/共59頁●QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).●1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃發(fā)易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.●Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.Thehistoryof

cheongsam第45頁/共59頁

Thedetailsofcheongsam●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapel[l?'pel]

ofjunction[?d???k??n]

decoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoat['we?sk??t]

orjacket(增加坎肩或馬褂)第46頁/共59頁●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外輪廓呈長方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(馬蹄袖蓋手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)第47頁/共59頁

Frog盤扣Openings衩第48頁/共59頁Embroidery[?m'br??d?r?]

刺繡Frontofagarment襟第49頁/共59頁Development

From1914to1949第50頁/共59頁1930~1940，Peakperiod

western-stylecuttingmethod

standardclothingofthemodernChinesewomen1920s1930s