精選word文檔下載可編輯Thefall2010collectionsmayofferthebestclothesforworkingwomensinceYvesSt.LaurentintroducedthesleekLeSmokingpantsuitin196在意大利的米蘭，古奇(Gucci)、吉爾桑達(dá)(JilSander)、Etro、瑪尼(Marni)、杜嘉班納(DolceGabbana)、普拉達(dá)(Prada)、寶緹嘉(BottegaVeneta)和AquilanoRimondi都推出了優(yōu)雅而經(jīng)典的女性套裝──西裝外套搭配長褲或裙裝。在紐約，馬克雅可布(MarcJacobs)、邁克科爾(MichaelKors)和其他品牌也如法炮制?，F(xiàn)在輪到了法國人來引領(lǐng)這股潮流──為期九天的巴黎時裝周近日拉開了帷幕。InMilan,Gucci,JilSander,Etro,Marni,DolceGabbana,Prada,BottegaVenetaandAquilanoRimondiallshowedelegant,classicversionsofwomenssuits--tailoredjacketswitheitherpantsorskirtstomatch.InNewYork,MarcJacobs,MichaelKorsandothersdidthesame.NowitsuptotheFrench--whoarejuststartingninedaysofrunwaysshowsinParis--toshapethetrend.這些新套裝和過去幾年流行的款式大不相同。直到最近，實(shí)際上也就是大約兩周以前，從頭到腳搭配一致被認(rèn)為是一種時尚犯罪。花朵圖案可以和格子混搭，貂皮也可以和牛仔布放在一起。然而西裝外套和褲子或裙裝相搭配則意味著此人對時尚毫無品味。一個代表性的款式就是連衣裙搭配開衫，也就是米歇爾奧巴馬(MichelleObama)風(fēng)格。眼下，設(shè)計(jì)師們的靈感來源似乎已經(jīng)從第一夫人米歇爾身上轉(zhuǎn)移到了施樂(Xerox)董事長安妮麥卡伊(AnneMulcahy)。Itshardtooverstatehowdifferentthenewsuitsarefromthedominantstylesofthepastfewyears.Veryrecently--untilabouttwoweeksago,infact--beingmatchy-matchywasconsideredafashioncrime.Floralscouldbemixedwithplaidandsablewithdenim.Butatailoredjacketthatmatcheditspantsorskirtsuggestedablindeyetowardstyle.Akeylookwasadresswornwithacardigan,MichelleObama-style.Now,itlooksasifdesignershavemovedonfromthefirstladytoadoptXeroxChairmanAnneMulcahyasamuse.另外，近年來T臺上展示的許多服裝款式都無外乎低領(lǐng)、透明、超短或緊身，這些樣式足夠讓人們在辦公室里議論上一個星期的了。這就將很多的職業(yè)女性推向了Talbots或者St.John這些品牌，這讓她們感覺自己已經(jīng)尷尬地落伍了。Also,manyoftheclothesshownonrunwaysinrecentyearswereplunging,see-through,micro-mini,orsoskinnythattheywouldinspireaweekofwater-coolertalkattheoffice.ThatleftalotofworkingwomanshoppingatTalbotsorSt.Johnandfeelingawkwardlyoutoffashion.而新款式則讓人感覺舒服、強(qiáng)勢，它們也遠(yuǎn)非曲線畢露。這讓人回想起查理(Charlie)女孩兒──上世紀(jì)70年代初露華濃(Revlon)香水廣告里那些穿著套裝的女性。和最近幾年流行的墊肩裝不同，這些衣服除了面料的講究之外并沒有任何夸張之處。長款上衣和富于垂感的寬腿長褲讓女性的身材顯得更加高挑。Thenewlookiscomfortable,strongandfarfrombody-revealing.ItsredolentoftheCharliegirl--thepantsuit-wearingwomanintheearly-1970sadsfortheRevlonperfume.Incontrasttothepower-shoulderlooksintroducedinrecentyears,thereisnothingexaggeratedabouttheseclothesexcepttheluxuryofthefabrics.Thesilhouetteiselongated,withlongjacketsandflowy,relativelywide-leggedpants.由模特謝麗哈克(ShelleyHack)演繹的查理女孩兒影響了許許多多的女性(其中包括當(dāng)年還很年輕的奧普拉溫弗莉(OprahWinfrey)，她最近在自己的節(jié)目中作出了上述表示)，她們希望成為廣告中的人物性感而自信的現(xiàn)代職業(yè)女性。查理女孩兒身著飄逸的套裝，從上衣、裙子到絲綢襯衫都十分搭配。TheCharliegirl,asplayedbythemodelShelleyHack,influencedthousandsofwomen(includingayoungOprahWinfrey,theentertainerrecentlysaidonhershow)whowantedtobejustlikethefigureintheads:amoderncareerwoman,sexyandconfident.Sheworeafluidpantsuitwhosetailoredjacket,trousersandsilkblouseallmatched.如今，女性對于職業(yè)賦予自身的力量不再顯得那么自信滿滿了。不過在米蘭，托馬斯邁爾(TomasMaier)讓人重新回想起了70年代的樂觀情緒。他為寶緹嘉推出了一款優(yōu)雅的查理女孩兒套裝。掌控一切的不是衣服，而是女性，他在時裝秀結(jié)束后表示。Thesedays,womenarentasoptimisticaboutcareerempowerment.ButinMilan,TomasMaier,whoshowedaswankCharliegirlsuitforBottegaVeneta,recalledthat70soptimism.Clothesarenotincontrol.Womenareincontrol,hesaidpost-show.由托馬索阿奎拉諾(TommasoAquilano)和羅伯特瑞蒙蒂(RobertoRimondi)設(shè)計(jì)的品牌AquilanoRimondi展示了查理女孩兒套裝的另一個版本──深色、雙排扣、寬領(lǐng)──這一適合日常穿著的系列和他們過去幾季推出的那種過于考究復(fù)雜的款式形成了強(qiáng)烈反差。在這兩位設(shè)計(jì)師參與設(shè)計(jì)的GianfrancoFerre品牌時裝中，他們的風(fēng)格也大為轉(zhuǎn)變以舒適的灰色羊毛寬腿褲裝和其他剪裁講究的款式為特色，這些款式看起來是為了突出優(yōu)點(diǎn)而不是暴露身材。AquilanoRimondi,designedbyTommasoAquilanoandRobertoRimondi,showedanotherversionofaCharliegirlsuit--dark,double-breastedandwide-lapeled--inawearablecollectionthatcontrastedsharplywiththeoverlydressyandcomplicatedlookstheyveshowninpastseasons.Theduomadeasimilarabout-faceatGianfrancoFerre,whichtheyalsodesign,byfeaturingcomfy-lookingwide-leggedpantsinasparklygraywool,alongwithotherhighlytailoredlooksthatseemedcuttoflatterratherthantoreveal.這股套裝潮流已經(jīng)變得勢不可擋，即使是那些風(fēng)格完全不同的設(shè)計(jì)師也在順勢而為。以鮮亮的色彩、波希米亞圖案和柔軟面料而聞名的維羅妮卡艾特羅(VeronicaEtro)也推出了搭配一致的上裝和窄腿褲，以及粉紅色的查理女孩兒套裝，不過和雙排扣上衣搭配的卻是七分褲、翻邊褲和闊腿褲。Thesuitingtrendissomarkedthatevendesignerswhoareknownforsomethingentirelydifferentareshowingit.VeronicaEtro,renownedforhervividcolors,bohemianpatternsandfluidfabrics,showedmatchingtopsandnarrow-leggedpants,aswellasacoral-coloredCharliegirlsuit,updatedwithcropped,cuffed,wide-leggedpantsunderitsdouble-breastedjacket.繆西婭普拉達(dá)(MiucciaPrada)將她的秋季系列稱為正常的服裝──經(jīng)典，經(jīng)典，她表示。她推出了束腰連衣裙，并在胸線上增加了縫褶的設(shè)計(jì)以貼合普通女性的體型，還搭配了簡潔的高跟鞋。這和她以往T臺秀的風(fēng)格相比是個很大的轉(zhuǎn)變(水靴和短褲是她上個冬季系列的主打)，甚至可以稱得上是顛覆性的。MiucciaPradaheraldedherfallcollectionasnormalclothing--classical,classical,shesaid.Sheshowednip-waisteddresses,withdartsatthebustlinetofitaregularwomansfigure,andsimpleheels.Itwassuchaturnfromwhatsusuallyonherrunways(hipwadersandpanty-shortsweretheessenceofherlastwintercollection)thatitseemedalmostsubversive.看看這些系列在擺上零售店的貨架之后銷售情況如何將是件讓人興奮的事情。美國的百貨商場似乎正在欣然接納這股潮流。內(nèi)曼馬庫斯(NeimanMarcus)的時尚總監(jiān)肯唐寧(KenDowning)在米蘭表示，從目前來看，這一季的服裝銷售不錯。Itwillbeexcitingtoseehowthesecollectionssellwhentheyarriveinstores.Americandepartmentstoresappeartobeembracingtheapproach.KenDowning,fashiondirectorforNeimanMarcus,saidinMilanthatitsbeenagoodseasonsofar.在米蘭的古奇時裝秀開場前，波道夫古德曼(BergdorfGoodman)的時尚總監(jiān)琳達(dá)法戈(LindaFargo)表示，她歡迎向經(jīng)典式樣的回歸。古奇接下來的時裝秀展示了很多搭配一致的灰色套裝──西裝上衣和長褲，也突出了對手感和奢華面料的注重。AsshewaitedforGuccisshowtobegininMilan,LindaFargo,BergdorfGoodmansfashiondirector,saidshewelcomesthereturntoclassictailoring.WhatfollowedatGucciwasalotofmatchinggraysuiting--tailoredjacketsandlongpants--andanemphasisontextureandluxuryfabrics.這股風(fēng)潮的頂峰出現(xiàn)在了杜嘉班納的秀場上。這一季，他們向西裝外套──還有該品牌裁縫們的高超技藝表達(dá)了敬意。來自意大利的杜嘉班納靠富于挑逗性的廣告和時裝秀樹立起了名聲。TheheightofthetrendcameatDolceGabbana,whichhasbuiltitsreputationonprovocativeadsandshows.Thisseason,itofferedanemotionaltributetothetailoredjacket--