Hiroshima!Everybodyoff!||ThatmustbewhatthemanintheJapanesestationmaster'suniformshouted,asthefastesttrainintheworldslippedtoastopinHiroshimaStation.Ididnotunderstandwhathewassaying.Firstofall,becausehewasshoutinginJapanese.Andsecondly,becauseIhadalumpinmythroatandalotofsadthoughtsonmymindthathadlittletodowithanythingaNipponrailwaysofficialmightsay.Theveryactofsteppingonthissoil,inbreathingthisairofHiroshima,wasformeafargreateradventurethananytriporanyreportorialassignmentI'dpreviouslytaken.WasInotatthesceneofthecrime?—廣島到了!大家請下車!||當世界上最快的高速列車減速駛進廣島車站并漸漸停穩(wěn)時，那位身著日本火車站站長制服的男人口中喊出的一定是這樣的話。我其實并無聽懂他在說些什么，一是因為他是用日語喊的，其次，則是因為我那時心情繁重，喉嚨哽噎，憂思萬縷，幾乎顧不上去管那日本鐵路官員說些什么。踏上這塊土地，呼吸著廣島的空氣，對我來講這行動本身已是一套令人激動的經歷，其意義遠遠超過我以往所進行的任何一次旅行或采訪活動。莫非我不就是在犯法現場嗎?TheJapanesecrowddidnotappeartohavethesamepreoccupationsthatIhad.Fromthesidewalkoutsidethestation,thingsseemedmuchthesameasinotherJapanesecities.Littlegirlsandelderlyladiesinkimonosrubbedshoulderswithteenagersandwomeninwesterndress.Seriouslookingmenspoketooneanotherasiftheywereobliviousofthecrowdsaboutthem,andbobbedupanddownre-heatedlyinlittlebows,astheyexchangedtheritualformulaofgratitudeandrespect:"Tomoaligatogozayimas."Otherswereusinglittleredtelephonesthathungonthefacadesofgrocerystoresandtobaccoshops.這兒的日本人看來倒沒有我這樣的憂傷情緒。從車站外的人行道上看去，這兒的一切似乎都與日本其他城市沒什么兩樣。身著和嘏的小姑娘和上了年紀的太太與西裝打扮的少年和婦女摩肩接豫；神情嚴肅的男人們對周圍的人群似乎視而不見，只顧著彼此交淡，并不斷地頷首哈腰，互致問候：—何等阿里伽多戈扎伊馬嘶。11還有人在利用雜貨鋪和煙草店門前掛著的小巧的紅色通話。"Hi!Hi!"saidthecabdriver,whosedoorpoppedopenattheverysightofatraveler."Hi",orsomethingthatsoundsverymuchlikeit,means"yes"."CanyoutakemetoCityHall?"Hegrinnedatmeintherear-viewmirrorandrepeated"Hi!""Hi!‘WesetoffattopspeedthroughthenarrowstreetsofHiroshima.Thetallbuildingsofthemartyredcityflashedbyaswelurchedfromsidetosideinresponsetothedriver'ssharptwistsofthewheel.—嗨!嗨!||出租汽車司機一看見旅客，就砰地打開車門，這樣打著招呼。—嗨11，或某個發(fā)音近似—嗨||的什么詞，意思是—對||或—是||?！芩臀业绞姓d嗎?||司機對著后視鏡沖我一笑，又連聲—嗨!|「嗨!11出租車穿過廣島市區(qū)狹小的街巷全速奔馳，咱們的身子隨著司機手中方向盤的一次次急轉而前俯后仰，東倒西歪。與此同時，這座曾慘遭劫難的城市的高樓大廈則一座座地從咱們身旁飛掠而過。JustasIwasbeginningtofindtheridelong,thetaxiscreechedtoahalt,andthedrivergotoutandwentovertoapolicemantoasktheway.AsinTokyo,taxidriversinHiroshimaoftenknowlittleoftheircity,buttoavoidlossoffacebeforeforeigners,willnotadmittheirignorance,andwillacceptanydestinationwithoutconcernforhowlongitmaytakethemtofindit.合法我開始感覺路程太長時，汽車嘎地一聲停了下來，司機下車去向警察問路。就像東京的情形一樣，廣島的出租車司機對他們所在的城市往往不太熟悉，但因為怕在外國人眼前丟臉，卻又從不肯承認這一點。無論乘客指定的目的地在哪里，他們都毫不猶豫地應承下來，根本不考慮自己要花多長時間才能找到目的地。Atlastthisintermezzocametoanend,andIfoundmyselfinfrontofthegiganticCityHall.Theusherboweddeeplyandheavedalong,almostmusicalsigh,whenIshowedhimtheinvitationwhichthemayorhadsentmeinresponsetomyrequestforaninterview."Thatisnothere,sir,"hesaidinEnglish."Themayorexpectsyoutonightfordinnerwithotherforeignersor,therestaurantboat.See?Thisiswhereitis.||Hesketchedalittlemapformeonthebackofmyinvitation.這段小插曲后來終于結束了，我也就不知不覺地突然來到了宏偉的市政廳大樓前。當我出示了市長應我的采訪要求而發(fā)送的請柬后，市政廳接待人員向我深深地鞠了一躬，然后聲調悠揚地長嘆了一口氣?！皇沁@兒，先生，||他用英語說道?！虚L邀請您今天晚上同其他外賓一路在水上餐廳赴宴。您看，就是這兒。||他邊說邊為我在請柬背面勾劃出了一張簡略的示用意。Thankstohismap,Iwasabletofindataxidriverwhocouldtakemestraighttothecanalembankment,whereasortofbargewitharooflikeoneonaJapanesehousewasmoored.TheJapanesebuildtheirtraditionalhousesonboatswhenlandbecomestooexpensive.TheratherarrestingspectacleoflittleoldJapanadriftadriftamidbeigeconcreteskyscrapersistheverysymboloftheincessantstrugglebetweenthekimonoandtheminiskirt.幸虧有了他畫的圖，我才找到一輛出租車把我直接送到了運河堤岸，那兒停泊著一艘頂篷頗像一般日本衡宇屋頂的大游艇。由于地價過于昂貴，日本人便把傳統(tǒng)日本式衡宇建到了船上。漂浮在水面上的舊式日本小屋夾在一座座灰黃色摩天大樓之間，這一引人注目的景觀正象征著和服與超短裙之間持續(xù)不斷的斗爭。Atthedoortotherestaurant,astunning,porcelain-facedwomanintraditionalcostumeaskedmetoremovemyshoes.Thisdone,Ienteredoneofthelow-ceilingedroomsofthelittlefloatinghouse,treadingcautiouslyonthesoftmattingandexperiencingatwingeofembarrassmentattheprospectofmeetingthemayorofHiroshimainmysocks.在水上餐廳的門口，一名身著和服、面色如玉、風韻綽約的迎賓女郎告知我要脫鞋進屋。于是我便脫下鞋子，走進這座水上小屋里的一個低矮的房間，躡手躡腳地踏在柔軟的榻榻米地席上，因想到要這樣穿著襪子去見廣島市長而感到十分困窘不安。Hewasatall,thinman,sad-eyedandserious.Quiteunexpectedly,thestrangeemotionwhichhadoverwhelmedmeatthestationreturned,andIwasagaincrushedbythethoughtthatInowstoodonthesiteofthefirstatomicbombardment,wherethousandsuponthousandsofpeoplehadbeenslaininonesecond,wherethousandsuponthousandsofothershadlingeredontodieinslowagony.市長是位瘦高個兒的男人，目光憂郁，神情嚴肅。出人意料的是，剛到廣島車站時襲擾著我的那種異樣的憂傷情緒竟在這時從頭襲上心頭，我的心情又難受起來，因為我又一次意識到自己置身于曾蒙受第一顆原子彈轟擊的現場。這兒曾有成千上萬的生命瞬息之間即遭毀滅，還有成千上萬的人在痛苦的煎熬中慢慢死去。Theintroductionsweremade.MostoftheguestswereJapanese,anditwasdifficultformetoaskthemjustwhyweweregatheredhere.ThefewAmericansandGermansseemedjustasinhibitedasIwas."Gentlemen,"saidthemayor,"IamhappytowelcomeyoutoHiroshima."到場的賓客們被彼此介紹了一番。他們大多數都是日本人，我也不好開口去問為何要請咱們來這兒聚會。在場的少數幾位美國人和德國人看來也同我一樣有些局促不安。—先生們，||市長開言道，—我很高興歡迎你們到廣島來。11Everyonebowed,includingtheWesterners.AfterthreedaysinJapan,thespinalcolumnbecomesextraordinarilyflexible.大家都開始哈腰鞠躬，連在場的西方人也不例外。只要在日本呆上三天，人的脊椎骨就會變得特別地柔韌靈活。"Gentlemen,itisaverygreathonortohaveyouhereinHiroshima."Therewerefreshbows,andthefacesgrewmoreandmoreseriouseachtimethenameHiroshimawasrepeated.—先生們，你們光臨廣島是咱們的極大榮幸。||大家又開始鞠躬。隨著廣島這一名字的一次次重復，大家的面容變得愈來愈嚴肅起來。"Hiroshima,asyouknow,isacityfamiliartoeveryone川continuedthemayor.—廣島，大家知道，是一座大家都很熟悉的城市，||市長接著說道。"Yes,yes,ofcourse川murmuredthecompany,moreandmoreagitated.—對，對，固然是這樣，||在場的人們低聲議論著，臉上的神色愈來愈不安起來。"Seldomhasacitygainedsuchworldrenown,andIamproudandhappytowelcomeyoutoHiroshima,atownknownthroughouttheworldforits---oysters".—寶貴有個城市像廣島這樣著名遐邇。我既高興而又自豪地歡迎諸位來到廣島。令廣島如此舉世著名的乃是它的牡蠣。||Iwasjustabouttomakemylittlebowofassent,whenthemeaningoftheselastwordssankin,joltingmeoutofmysadreverie.我正準備頷首對市長的話表示贊同，可就在這時，我突然聽明白了適才這句話末尾幾個字的意義，我的頭腦也就隨之從憂愁傷感中清醒過來。"Hiroshima一oysters?Whataboutthebombandthemiseryandhumanity'smostheinouscrime?"―廣島——牡蠣?怎么沒提原子彈和這個城市所蒙受的災難和人類有史以來犯下的最大的罪惡呢?11WhilethemayorwentonwithhisspeechinpraiseofsouthernJapaneseseafood,Icautiouslybackedawayandheadedtowardthefarsideoftheroom,whereafewmenweretalkingamongthemselvesandpayinglittleattentiontothemayor'sspeech.市長還在繼續(xù)演講，一個勁兒贊美著日本南方的海味。我躡手躡腳地退到屋子的后邊，那兒有幾個人在開小會，沒怎么理會市長的演講。"Youlookpuzzled,"saidasmallJapanesemanwithverylargeeye-glasses.—您看上去像是心中有什么疑惑未解似的，||一個身材矮小、戴著一副特大眼鏡的日本人對我說道。"Well,ImustconfessthatIdidnotexpectaspeechaboutoystershere.IthoughtthatHiroshimastillfelttheimpactoftheatomicimpact."—不錯，我得承認我真的沒有料到在這兒會聽到一番關于牡蠣的演說。我原以為廣島仍未擺脫原子彈災禍的陰影。||"Noonetalksaboutitanymore,andnoonewantsto,especially,thepeoplewhowerebornhereorwholivedthroughit.||一沒有人再去談它了，誰都不肯再提了，尤其是在這兒誕生的或是切身經歷了那場災難的人。||"Doyoufeelthesameway,too?"—你也是這種態(tài)度嗎?||"Iwashere,butIwasnotinthecenteroftown.ItellyouthisbecauseIamalmostanoldman.Therearetwodifferentschoolsofthoughtinthiscityofoysters,onethatwouldliketopreservetracesofthebomb,andtheotherthatwouldliketogetridofeverything,eventhemonumentthatwaserectedatthepointofimpact.Theywouldalsoliketodemolishtheatomicmuseum."—我那時就在這個城市，不過沒在市中心。我之所以對您講起這些，是因為我已差不多步入老年了。在這個以牡蠣著名的城市里有兩種截然不同的意見，一種主張保留原子彈爆炸留下的痕跡，另一種則主張銷毀一切痕跡，乃至要拆除立于爆炸中心的紀念碑。這一派人還要求拆掉原子博物館。||"Whywouldtheywanttodothat?"一你們?yōu)楹我@樣做呢?||"Becauseithurtseverybody,andbecausetimemarcheson.Thatiswhy."ThesmallJapanesemansmiled,hiseyesnearlyclosedbehindtheirthicklenses."Ifyouwriteaboutthiscity,donotforgettosaythatitisthegayestcityinJapan,evenitmanyofthetown'speoplestillbearhiddenwounds,andburns."―因為那些東西令人傷感，因為時代畢竟在前進。||小個子日本人面帶微笑，一雙眼睛在厚厚的鏡片后面瞇成了一條縫。—假設您要描述這座城市的話，萬萬別忘記告知人們這是日本最快樂的城市，雖然這里的市民許多人身上還帶著暗傷和明顯的灼傷。||Likeanyother,thehospitalsmelledofformaldehydeandether.Stretchersandwheelchairslinedthewallsofendlesscorridors,andnurseswalkedbycarryingStretchersinstruments,theverysightofwhichwouldsendshiversdownthespineofanyhealthyvisitor.Theso-calledatomicsectionwaslocatedonthethirdfloor.Itconsistedof17beds.和其他任何一家醫(yī)院一樣，這家醫(yī)院里也彌漫著甲醛和乙醚的氣味。長得看不到止境的走廊墻邊排列著無數的擔架和輪椅，穿廊而過的護士手中都端著鍍鎳的醫(yī)療器械，使得來這兒的健康人一看便脊背發(fā)涼。所謂原子病區(qū)設在三樓，共有十七個病床。"Iamafishermanbytrade.Ihavebeenhereaverylongtime,morethantwentyyears,"saidanoldmaninJapanesepajamas.―我是以打魚為生的，在這兒已呆了好久了，二十連年了。||一個身穿日本式寢衣的老人這樣對我說。_Whatiswrongwithyou?||一你是受的什么傷?||"Somethinginside.IwasinHiroshimawhenithappened.Isawthefireball.ButIhadnoburnsonmyfaceorbody.Iranalloverthecitylookingformissingfriendsandrelatives.IthoughtsomehowIhadbeenspared.Butlatermyhairbegantofallout,andmybellyturnedtowater.Ifeltsick,andeversincethentheyhavebeentestingandtreatingme."—內傷。那場災難降臨時我正在廣島。我看到了原子彈爆炸時的火球，但無論臉上身上都沒有灼傷。我那時滿街奔跑著尋覓失蹤的親友。我以為自己總算是幸免于難了，但到后來，我的頭發(fā)開始脫落，腹內開始出水，并感覺惡心嘔吐。打那時起，他們就一直不斷地對我進行體檢和醫(yī)治。||Thedoctoratmysideexplainedandcommentedupontheoldman'sstory,"Westillhareahandfulofpatientsherewhoarebeingkeptalivebyconstantcare.Theothersdiedasaresultoftheirinjuries,orelsecommittedsuicide."站在我身旁的醫(yī)生對老人的話作了補充說明：—咱們這兒還有一些病人是靠不斷的護理醫(yī)治才得以維持生命的。還有一些病人因傷重不治而死，還有一些自殺身亡。||"Whydidtheycommitsuicide?"―他們干嗎要自殺呢?||"Itishumiliatingtosurviveinthiscity.Ifyoubearanyvisiblescarsofatomicburns,yourchildrenwillencounterprejudiceonthepartofthosewhodonot.Noonewillmarrythedaughterorthenieceofanatomicbombvictim.Peopleareafraidofgeneticdamagefromtheradiation."―因為在這座城市里茍延殘喘是一種恥辱。假設你身上有著明顯的原子傷痕，你的孩子就會受到那些沒有傷痕的人的歧視。男人們誰也不肯娶一個原子彈受害者的女兒或侄女為妻。他們害怕核輻射會造成遺傳基因病變。||禮、興致勃勃地定睛望著我。Hangingoverthepa