1、第一章 紡織纖維的分類（Textile Fiber Classification）紡織纖維(textile fiber)紡織纖維紡織纖維 纖維長(zhǎng)度達(dá)到數(shù)十毫米以上，具有一定的強(qiáng)度、一定的可撓曲性和相互糾纏抱合性能和其他服用性能而可以生產(chǎn)紡織制品（如紗線、繩帶、機(jī)織物、針織物）的，叫紡織纖維紡織纖維。 纖維可紡紗的條件： 1 必須具有一定的細(xì)度,一定的長(zhǎng)度,一定的長(zhǎng)細(xì)比例及均勻度; 2 必須具有一定的強(qiáng)力,變形能力,彈性,耐磨性,剛?cè)嵝?抱合性和摩擦力;如金屬絲，藕絲 3 應(yīng)具有一定的吸濕性、導(dǎo)電性和熱學(xué)性質(zhì)；如金屬絲 4 應(yīng)具有一定的化學(xué)穩(wěn)定性和良好的染色性能； 特種纖維用紡織纖維還有特別的要

2、求，如輪胎用簾子線，要耐疲勞；帳篷布要耐日曬；宇航服要耐高溫；降落傘要強(qiáng)力高。紡織纖維的分類天然纖維1 天然纖維素纖維（natural cellulose fiber）種子纖維（seed hairs）韌皮纖維( bast fibers)葉子纖維(leaf fibers)果殼纖維(nut husk fibers) Since primitive times, human Since primitive times, human beings began to use natural fiber beings began to use natural fiber clothing. Initial

3、ly, humans rely on clothing. Initially, humans rely on animal skins and fur of body, and animal skins and fur of body, and later learned to weave crude textiles. later learned to weave crude textiles. They plant the vines of flexible fibers They plant the vines of flexible fibers woven into the orig

4、inal rough cloth.woven into the original rough cloth. It records the history of Chinese science It records the history of Chinese science and technology, China has emerged in the 4000-and technology, China has emerged in the 4000-5000 years ago, silk and linen fabrics, 3000 5000 years ago, silk and

5、linen fabrics, 3000 years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. She has mastered all the operating She has mastered all the operating processes such as tripping processes such as tripping cottonseedcottonseed , ,elastic cotton, volume elastic cotton, v

6、olume sliversliver ,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton. Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous textile expert , textile expert , Cotton fibers are the seeds of plant fiber , which is the most important textile fibe

7、r that human has used for a long history. 棉纖維屬于植物纖維中的種子纖維，是人類使用歷史較長(zhǎng)的重要紡織纖維。 China, India, Egypt, Peru, Brazil, the United States are the worlds major cotton producing area. Yellow River, Yangtze River, south, northwest, northeast are five major cotton-producing regions of China. 中國(guó)、印度、埃及、秘魯、巴西、美國(guó)等為世

8、界主要棉纖維產(chǎn)地。 黃河流域、長(zhǎng)江流域、華南、西北、東北為我國(guó)五大產(chǎn)棉區(qū)。Fiber Properties: Cotton fibers are composed of an outer(skin) and a primary wall , a secondary wall ,and a century core ,or lumen . 棉纖維為多層狀帶中腔結(jié)構(gòu)。 Immature fibers exhibit thin wall structures and a large lumen ,whereas mature fibers have thick walls and a small l

9、umen that may not be continuous ,because the wall close the lumen in some sections. 未成熟纖維顯示薄壁結(jié)構(gòu)和一個(gè)大的中腔，相反，成熟纖維則有厚的細(xì)胞壁和一個(gè)小的中腔，且沒有連續(xù)，因?yàn)榧?xì)胞壁在某一部分和中腔接近。 Cotton fibers are thin long and soft, with a high moisture regain . 棉纖維細(xì)長(zhǎng)柔軟，吸濕性好。 Cotton fiber is a moisture and strong porous material. The internal mo

10、lecular arrangement is not regular, with a large number of hydrophilic molecular structure inside. 綿纖維是多孔性物質(zhì)，內(nèi)部分子排列很不規(guī)則，且分子中含有大量的親水結(jié)構(gòu)。 因此，在正常的情況下，纖維可向周圍的大氣中吸收水分，其含水率為8-10%。當(dāng)人們穿棉織物時(shí)，會(huì)感到柔軟而不僵硬 - As the warm cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, thermal conductivity is very low, bec

11、ause of its porous nature of cotton fibers, the advantages of high flexibility, can accumulate large amounts of air between the fibers, the air is hot and electric the bad conductor, so cotton fiber products have good moisture retention, use cotton products make people feel warm.保暖性-由于棉纖維是熱和電的不良導(dǎo)體，熱

12、傳導(dǎo)系數(shù)極低，又因棉纖維本身具有多孔性，彈性高優(yōu)點(diǎn)，纖維之間能積存大量空氣，空氣又是熱和電的不良導(dǎo)體，所以，純棉纖維制品具有良好的保濕性，使用純棉制品使人感覺到溫暖。 棉纖維缺點(diǎn) Easy to fold - less flexible cotton fiber. 易皺-棉纖維彈性較差。 Large shrinkage - there is a strong absorbent cotton fiber, when it absorbs moisture so that after the expansion of cotton fiber, cotton yarn caused by red

13、uced deformation 縮水率大-棉纖維有很強(qiáng)的吸水性，當(dāng)其吸收水份后令棉纖維膨脹，引致棉紗縮短變形。 - Mildew in damp conditions, such as the case of bacteria or fungi, cotton fibers will be broken down into nutrients - they like glucose, so that the fabric moldy 霉變-在潮濕的狀態(tài)下，如遇細(xì)菌或真菌，棉纖維會(huì)分解成它們喜歡的營(yíng)養(yǎng)物質(zhì)-葡萄糖，使面料發(fā)霉變質(zhì)。 Despite the poor - Moisture abs

14、orption and strong, but not dry 排濕性差-盡管吸濕力強(qiáng)，但不易干燥。 Cotton fiber, such as prolonged exposure to daylight, strong reduction will be hard-brittle fibers, such as the case of oxidant, with oxidizing bleach or dye, but also will decrease fiber strength, fiber brittle hair hard. 棉纖維如長(zhǎng)時(shí)間與日光接觸，強(qiáng)力降低，纖維會(huì)硬發(fā)脆，如

15、遇氧化劑、漂白粉或具有氧化性的染料，也會(huì)使纖維強(qiáng)力下降，纖維發(fā)脆發(fā)硬。 Colored cotton With the development of agricultural technology, the natural color of cotton fiber has emerged.韌皮纖維（bast fibers）The Pharaoh of Egypt s mummies are wrapped in linen bandages.The bast fiber consist of flax, ramie, jute, hemp.Flax is a bast fiber-a woo

16、dy（木質(zhì)的） fiber obtained from the phloem（韌皮部 ）of plants. It derives from the stalk（莖） or stem of Linum suitatssimum （亞麻屬植物）（亞麻屬植物）. The use of linen in Egypt between 3000and 2500B.C. has been verified.Physical Properties Flax fiber is not so fine as cotton, is longer than cotton. The natural color of

17、flax varies from light ivory to gray. While, the color of cotton fibers vary from almost pure white to a dirty gray.The nature of flax Flax is a strong fiber. Fabrics of flax are durable and easy to maintain because of the fiber strength. When wet, the fiber is about 20 percent stronger than when dr

18、y. The amount of elongation that flax will undergo before breaking is very small. Linen fabrics are prone to crease and wrinkle badly. They are somewhat stiff and posses little resiliency. It is these characteristics, it can be made into sacks and hemp rope, etc. Flax has low pliability or flexibili

19、ty, which may result in increased serviceability. Flax has a standard moisture regain of about 12 percent. The saturation regain is comparable to that other cellulosic fibers(纖維素纖維). Flax has outstanding wicking properties（芯吸性）, which makes it possible to make dress and socks.Flax fibers do not shri

20、nk or stretch to any marked degree. However, as in the case of cotton, yarns and fabrics are subject to some relaxation shrinkage. Ironing linen fabrics while damp will help stretch them back to their original size.The strength of flax fibers makes it possible to manufacture a wide variety of yarns,

21、 from very fine to very heavy, which can be used to make a wide variety of fabrics, from sheer and loose to heavy and compact.There is a gradual loss of strength when linen fabrics are exposed to sunlight ,but this is not serious. consequently, flax makes a good choice for curtain .Dry linen has exc

22、ellent resistance to mildew（霉菌）, but if the fabric is moist or stored in a humid atmosphere, mildew will grow rapidly and damage the fiber, so linen fabric should be placed in a dry environment.The nature resistance of flax to chemicals, including detergents, bleaches, other laundry aids, and dry-cl

23、eaning solvents, provides a fabric that is easily maintained. Further, these properties, plus resistance to sunlight, inherent fiber strength, and resistance to aging, result in fabrics with a long life. In addition to the flax plant there are a lot of hemp plant is produced in life and industry, fo

24、r example in Apocynum. Its leaves can be used to make tea, have lower blood pressure , reducing blood lipid and preventing cold effects. Its bark（樹皮） is a natural material, can use the apocynum fiber finishing textile and clothing has good air permeability（透氣性）, hygroscopicity（吸濕性） strong, soft, ant

25、ibacterial, the winter heat and summer cold characteristics .Therefore apocynum fiber can advanced material, fishing line, leather line, raincoats and senior paper.Apocynum（羅布麻屬）天然蛋白質(zhì)纖維(natural protein fiber)毛纖維wool fiber 羊毛wool 兔毛rabbit hair 狗絨boss 一條狗可抓克絨，與羊相當(dāng)，具有肉用價(jià)值，天津工大開發(fā)發(fā)纖維hair fiber 羊絨cashmere

26、(開司米) 仿羊絨cash merelike 羊駝Alpaca(阿爾巴卡)，產(chǎn)于秘魯 馬海毛Mohair駱駝毛牦牛毛 以上纖維是最貼近皮膚的一層細(xì)薄絨毛,因其多生長(zhǎng)在高寒地帶,故保暖性極佳,其產(chǎn)量低,所以價(jià)格昂貴,又稱“軟黃金”或“纖維鉆石”。絲纖維silk 腺體分泌物（section） 家蠶絲 cultivated silk 柞蠶絲 wild silk3礦物纖維（mineral fiber） 從纖維狀結(jié)構(gòu)的礦石巖石中獲得的纖維 石棉askestes (二)化學(xué)纖維(man-made fiber）) 1再生纖維（regenerated fiber） 采用天然聚合物為原料，經(jīng)過(guò)化學(xué)方法制成的與

27、原聚 合物在化學(xué)組成上基本相同的化學(xué)纖維，稱再生纖維。再生纖維素纖維 粘膠纖維 viscose/rayon 天絲 tencel/LYOCELL/莫代爾纖維 銅氨纖維 cuprammonium fiber再生蛋白質(zhì)纖維 大豆纖維 奶酪纖維 甲殼素纖維 海藻酸鈉纖維2 合成纖維 (synthetic fiber)由天然小分子化合物經(jīng)人工合成有機(jī)聚合物后，再溶解或熔融成液體后抽拔成纖維。滌綸 polyester錦綸 polyamide fiber/nylon腈綸 acrylic fiber 無(wú)機(jī)纖維（inorganic fiber）,如玻璃纖維(glass fiber) 新型纖維 Thurmax 藕

28、形纖維藕形纖維：彈性極佳，又稱中空纖維，如七孔被，九孔被 Coolmax 涼爽纖維涼爽纖維：纖維中有槽子，毛細(xì)血管現(xiàn)象，導(dǎo)汗性極強(qiáng)。 ES纖維纖維： 丙綸和滌綸兩者，里面是滌綸，熔點(diǎn)較高（160 ），外面是丙綸，熔點(diǎn)較低（110 ）。制成無(wú)紡布。放在稍高于110 的溫度上烤，丙綸化掉成網(wǎng)狀，這種纖維具有彈性。芳綸芳綸 ：防彈衣 防輻射 防切割 （三）三） 天然纖維和化學(xué)纖維的異同 For centuries humankind For centuries humankind has relied upon various plants has relied upon various plant

29、s and animals to provide the and animals to provide the raw materials for fabrics and raw materials for fabrics and clothing. clothing. However, in the last However, in the last century scientists have turned century scientists have turned to chemistry and technology to chemistry and technology to c

30、reate and enhance many to create and enhance many of the fabrics we now take for of the fabrics we now take for granted.granted. In1955,manufacturers In1955,manufacturers began to produce a began to produce a new type of rayonnew type of rayonhigh-wet-modulus high-wet-modulus (HWM) rayon(HWM) rayonw

31、hich was somewhat which was somewhat stronger and which stronger and which could be used could be used successfully in sheets, successfully in sheets, towels, and apparel.towels, and apparel. Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in

32、our society. It is made in countries around the world. It our society. It is made in countries around the world. It can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics, treated can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics, treated with enhancements, and even engineered to perform a with enhancements,

33、 and even engineered to perform a variety of functionsvariety of functions.About fibers properties ASTMASTM defines moisture regain as “the moisture in a material determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free specimen. Moisture regainMoisture

34、 regain or absorbencyabsorbency depends on the fiber morphology or molecular arrangement and the pore size in the outer layer of fiber skin. conditioned weight-dry weightPercentage regain= x100 dry weightFible t=20 humidity= aa= 65%a=95%a=100%cotton7-812-1423-27 ramie 7-8 hemp 10-138-22wool15-17 26-

35、2733-36silk8-919-2236-39rayon13-1529-3535-45nylon3.5-5 8-9 10-13polyester0.4-0.50.6-0.71.0-1.1glass0 0-0.3 This table tells us that usually the moisture regain of natural fibers is higher thanhigher than the chemical fibers.However, Rayon Rayon is an exception,its moisture regain is same as the natu

36、ral fibersThis is glass fiberThis is glass fiberHow about the thermal behaviorHow about the thermal behavior ;such as ;such as refractoryrefractory ,specific heat,specific heat, heat conductionheat conductionThermodynamic three-state of fiber material: glass high-elastic viscous state state flow sta

37、te Tg Tt temperatureHere we adopted the following table for the case of Here we adopted the following table for the case of fiber strength in the sunfiber strength in the sun Material cotton wool hemp layon PAN silk nylon PET Sunlight 940 1120 1110 900 900 200 200 600 Time 50 50 50 50 16-25 50 36 60

38、 PANwoolhempcottonlayon PETnylonsilkStrengthLoss This table shows the heat resistance of natural fiber and chemical fiber is more or less same,but the heat resistance of chemical fibers is slightly lower than the natural fibers. In the natural fiber ,cellulose fiber better than protein fibers.The ex

39、pansion of fiber performance in the waterFiber typesSd（）Sl（）Sa（）Sv（）cotton203040424244silk16.3193032wool151725263641Viscose rayon25523.74.85011474127Copper ammonia fiber325326566268107Acetate fiber9140.10.368As is vividly indicated in the above chart , As is vividly indicated in the above

40、chart , Moisture after the fiber volume Moisture after the fiber volume expansion. The lateral expansion of the expansion. The lateral expansion of the fiber is large while the longitudinal fiber is large while the longitudinal expansion of the fiber is small.expansion of the fiber is small.What is

41、more ,the man-made fibers and What is more ,the man-made fibers and the natural fibers are all different, they the natural fibers are all different, they all do not have the same law.all do not have the same law.Common varieties of fiber lengthCommon varieties of fiber lengthFiber varietiesFiber var

42、ietiesLengthLengthFiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLengthUpland25 31Manila hemp3 20Sea Island cotton33 46Hemp5 55Fine wool40 100The long fiber55 65Semi-fine wool70 300Wool fiber76 120Cashmere22 36Cotton fiber38 41mohair45 70ramie20 200Silk60 1300jute1.5 5flax12 24We can also find the difference o

43、r sameness between We can also find the difference or sameness between natural fibers and chemical from natural fibers and chemical from identificationidentification Most natural fiber and chemical fiber are flammable Black floc objects have left after natural fiber burned，but the black hard object

44、is left for chemical fiber Natural fibers do not change near the fire source But chemical fiber close to the fire to melt When natural fiber burned ,you will smell a smell like burning paper or burning feather; but so many kinds of smell have existed for chemical fiber.Fiber cross section Fiber cros

45、s section shape shape with fiber kinds with fiber kinds and different.and different.Natural fiber has its own form.Natural fiber has its own form.Chemical fiber accChemical fiber accor ording to the will of the ding to the will of the people can be shaped design silk spray holes people can be shaped

46、 design silk spray holes to get various special-shaped cross-section to get various special-shaped cross-section of fiber.of fiber.桑蠶絲橫截面山羊絨橫截面 (三)天然紡織纖維應(yīng)用現(xiàn)狀與前景分析 一 、全球天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展圖1 全球天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展注：注：1800年年 160.0 萬(wàn)噸萬(wàn)噸 2006年年 2709萬(wàn)噸萬(wàn)噸年份天然纖維合計(jì)*棉纖維綿羊毛纖維生絲1800160.0122.037.70.301850220.0173.046.530.471890305.

47、10230.1473.771.191900392.09316.274.231.661910503.77421.080.522.161920547.05462.982.042.111930698.60592.7100.215.091940808.54697.1111.445.981950771.93664.7105.351.8819601200.211011.3145.813.1019701342.441178.2160.154.0919801590.911425.4160.505.6119902073.711871.4195.46.9120002059.631917.0132.89.83200

48、12209.122070.5127.511.1220022068.631931.9126.310.4320032194.172060.6122.011.5720042754.662620.0122.312.3620052577.452439.4122.815.2520062709.002570.7122.715.60表1. 二百年來(lái)棉毛絲纖維的發(fā)展（萬(wàn)噸） 纖維品種全球年產(chǎn)量中國(guó)年產(chǎn)量中國(guó)加工量棉纖維（皮棉）棉纖維（皮棉）2570.72570.7664.6664.61011.41011.4麻纖維麻纖維 249.0249.0 38.2538.25 56.3656.36苧麻（精干麻） 13.4 1

49、1.35 11.00亞麻（打成麻） 44.1 10.30 25.86黃麻（熟麻） 165.4 0.00 2.90槿麻（熟麻） 18.415.8 15.8 漢（大）麻（精干麻） 6.8 0.4 0.4 其他麻纖維（凈麻） 0.9 0.4 0.4毛纖維毛纖維 133.87133.87 9.599.59 36.8536.85 綿羊毛（洗凈毛）122.78.3 35.97 山羊絨（無(wú)毛絨） 1.270.89 0.61 其他動(dòng)物毛（凈毛） 9.90.40 0.27絲纖維絲纖維15.615.614.514.511.211.2 桑蠶絲（生絲、絹絲）16.514.1510.9其他絲纖維 1.10.35 0.3

50、0天然纖維合計(jì)天然纖維合計(jì)2971.172971.17726.94726.941115.811115.81表2 2006年天然纖維生產(chǎn)量及加工（萬(wàn)噸） 纖維品種全球年產(chǎn)量中國(guó)年產(chǎn)量棉纖維（皮棉）棉纖維（皮棉）2339.62339.6672.80672.80麻纖維麻纖維283.4283.436.4336.43苧麻（精干麻）25.022.30亞麻（打成麻）79.28.55黃麻（熟麻）140.00.03槿麻（熟麻）19.44.78 漢（大）麻（精干麻）3.40.44劍麻（熟麻）16.40.29其他麻纖維0.90.09毛纖維毛纖維121.36121.3610.01510.015綿羊毛（洗凈毛）119.

51、108.50山羊絨（無(wú)毛絨）1.140.85牦牛絨（無(wú)毛絨）0.170.10駱駝絨（無(wú)毛絨）0.070.015兔毛0.630.50其他毛纖維0.250.05絲纖維絲纖維15.9015.9010.2110.21 桑蠶絲（生絲、絹絲）14.409.86柞蠶絲（生絲）0.750.26其他絲纖維0.350.10天然纖維合計(jì)天然纖維合計(jì)2760.262760.26729.46729.46表3 2008年全球及中國(guó)天然纖維產(chǎn)量（萬(wàn)噸） （1）二百年來(lái)，全球天然纖維加工量有了蓬勃的發(fā)展，天然紡織纖維總量增長(zhǎng)了15.9倍，棉纖維產(chǎn)量增長(zhǎng)了21.1倍，毛纖維增長(zhǎng)了2.25倍，生絲增長(zhǎng)了51倍。但是近20年來(lái)，綿

52、羊毛縮減37%。（2）近幾年來(lái)，全球棉纖維、毛纖維、麻纖維、絲纖維的產(chǎn)量分別有所萎縮和徘徊。（3）近年來(lái)，特種纖維使用種類有了增加。（4）但是，今后隨著人口增漲，特別是產(chǎn)業(yè)用紡織品使用領(lǐng)域擴(kuò)大，紡織纖維原料需求量還將大幅增加。隨著石油、天然氣等的逐漸枯竭，紡織纖維原料將逐漸以可再生、可循環(huán)、可降解、對(duì)環(huán)境友好的生物質(zhì)資源纖維為主要來(lái)源。二、中國(guó)天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展 中國(guó)天然紡織纖維六十年來(lái)有了長(zhǎng)足進(jìn)步，是全球天然紡織纖維的重要生產(chǎn)大國(guó)。棉纖維產(chǎn)量占全球總產(chǎn)量的26綿羊洗凈毛占7山羊絨占70桑蠶絲占95柞蠶絲占35苧麻占85亞麻占23槿麻占86年份棉纖維苧麻亞麻黃麻槿麻綿羊毛(凈毛）山羊絨(無(wú)毛絨

53、)桑蠶絲柞蠶絲194944.440.750.101952130.378121.409.151.691957164.021050.0030.101.940.112.311.381965209.78590.0027.903.380.202.061.191978216.70520.00108.8071.691980270.65752.600.00109.802.341981296.75980.00126.006.940.168.801.841985463.700.00102.07.090.239.382.231988415.76.

54、400.00107.87.980.2513.791.451989378.80.0066.029.970.2714.781.641994434.10.0035.59.950.3525.641.951999382.80.0010.802000432.00.0010.512001479.90.0010.582002492.00.0010.552003486.99.832004631.98.232005581.87.962006706.410.308.300.6114.150.282007807.727.722008672.822.308.550.034.788.500.859.860.26表4 中國(guó)天然纖維生產(chǎn)發(fā)展情況 經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)達(dá)的原紡織大國(guó)，由于勞動(dòng)力成本躍升，價(jià)格競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力優(yōu)勢(shì)衰落，產(chǎn)業(yè)向第三世界轉(zhuǎn)移。 近二十年來(lái)，紡織產(chǎn)業(yè)大量向中國(guó)轉(zhuǎn)移，使中國(guó)成為全球紡織加工的第一大國(guó)，導(dǎo)致近年紡織纖維原料不足，每年棉纖維進(jìn)口量占30-40，綿羊洗凈毛占75-78，亞麻占60-70，黃麻幾乎全靠進(jìn)口，為保證棉纖維加工量，2006年以來(lái)中國(guó)已開始從29個(gè)國(guó)家進(jìn)口棉纖維。三、中國(guó)天然紡織纖維面臨的挑戰(zhàn) （1）進(jìn)入21世紀(jì)以來(lái)，全球人口暴增（聯(lián)合國(guó)2000年發(fā)布預(yù)測(cè)2050年全球人口76億，2009年1月發(fā)布預(yù)測(cè)2050年全