2023/1/11FabricCareCHAPTER29WordslistChapter29Keywords全部Newwords2，4，9，11，13-15，17，19，21，23，25，41，47，52-54，62，65，67，72，73，78，79，86，94，95，105。2023/1/13Textileproductsarecomplexitemscomposedofmanydifferentparts.Theconflicting(抵觸的，不一致的，矛盾的)interactionsoffiber,yarn,fabric,andwetprocessingwithinonefabricareoftendifficulttopredict.Whentwoormorefabricsarecombinedinagarmentorwindowcovering,predictionseevenmoredifficult,learningtocareforthesecomplexproductsisamajorpartofanystudyoftextilescience.2023/1/14Theinformationinthischapterfocusesoncareproceduresandthelabelsusedtoinformconsumersofthoseprocedures.Currently,carelabelingregulations規(guī)則arelimitedtoapparelproducts.Becauseconsumersofothertypesoftextileproductsoftendonothavecarelabelstoguidethem,itisimportantthatsometextileprofessionalsunderstandthebasicprinciplesoftextilecare.2023/1/15CareLabelingTwobasicsystemsofcorelabelingarecurrentlybeingused:thewritteninstructionsystemforapparelintheUnitedStates,andthecaresymbolsystemthatisbeingusedinmuchoftherestoftheworld.Atthiswriting,severalcountries(includingtheUnitedStates)havemandatory(命令的，必須的，強制的)carelabelingofapparel,andtheUnitedStateshasmandatorylabelingofapparelpiecegoods匹頭,布匹,butnomandatorylabelingexistsforothertypesoftextileproducts.Carelabelingoffurnitureupholstery,carpetsandrugs,draperies,andindustrialtextileproductsisnotrequired.2023/1/16CareProceduresTextileproductsmustreceiveperiodic定期的,周期的caretoretain保留保持theirfreshappearanceandpreventdamagefrominsects,mildew霉菌,andotherdestructive破壞性的organisms生物體,有機體.Drycleaningandlaundering洗燙areusedforapparelandmanyhouseholdproducts:someadditionalproceduresarealsouseful.2023/1/17DRYCLEANINGDrycleaningisacommercialcleaningprocessinwhichorganicsolventsareusedinaspeciallydesignedmachinetoremovesoilfromtextileproducts.Self-service自助式commercialdrycleanersprovidemachinessimilarinsizetohomewashingmachinesforusebyconsumers,andcommercialdrycleanersprovidetheserviceofdrycleaningbytrainedprofessionals專業(yè)人員.Homedry-cleaningmachinesarenotavailable.2023/1/18MachineThebasicdry-cleaningmachineisaperforatedinner內部,里面的cylinderthatrotateswithinanoutercylinder,orshell.Theinnercylinderservesasacontainerfortheload,andtheoutershellservesasacontainerforthesolvent.Therevolvinginnercylinderprovidesthemechanicalactionthatisneededtoremovesoilefficiently.Thedesignofthemachineisdeterminedbythesolventsystembeingused.Somesystemspermittheloadtobedriedwithinthebasiccleaningmachine;othersrequirethattheloadbetransferredtoanothertumbling歪斜的cylinder圓筒;stillothersrequirethattheloadbedriedinadryingcabinet干燥箱體ordryingroom..2023/1/19ProcessTheprocedurefollowedinattendant-service服務式commercialdrycleaningconsistsofprespottingtoremovestains,cleaningbyimmersion沉浸inasolvent,drying,spotting斑點,污點,andfinishingorpressing.Prespottingandspottinginvolvetheuseofspecialchemicalsandtechniquestoremovestainsandpersistent持久穩(wěn)固的soilfromtextiles.Pressinginvolvestheremovalofwrinklesonly,whereasfinishingusuallymeanstheuseofspecialtechniquestorestore恢復theoriginalhandandappearanceofaproduct.Steamisusedtorelaxwrinkles,andpressureisusedtoformcreasesandproducefabriccrispness挺爽性aswellasremovewrinkles.2023/1/110ChemicalsThechemicalactionusedindrycleaningtoremovesoilisprovidedbythesolvent,specialsoapsanddetergents清潔劑,andwater.Somesystemsuseonlysolvent:others,calledchargedsystems???,useasolvent-solubledetergentthatdissolvesinwatertoaidintheremovalofwater-solublesoils.2023/1/111Severalsolventshavebeenusedindry-cleaningsystems.Petroleum石油solventsareoneofthefractions小部分ofcrudeoil原油:Stoddardsolvent干洗溶劑油isageneric普通nameforpetroleumsolventsthatmeetcertainspecifications.Twochlorinatedhydrocarbon(含氯碳氫化合物)solvents,perchlorethylene(四氯乙烯,全氯乙烯oftenculled“perc”）andtrichlorethylene三氯乙烯,andafluorocarbon（碳氟化合物）product,chlorotrifluoroethane（三氯含氟乙烯）.areused.2023/1/112ConsumerPracticesBoththepresenceandabsenceoftheterm“Dry-clean"oncarelabelshavecausedproblemsforconsumers.Manypeopleusetheirpriorexperiencewithgarmentstoselectanefficientcleaningmethod.Whengarmentsrequirepressingorspecialhandling,orconsumersaretoobusytowashthemathome,thedecisionoftenismadetoleavetheitem—andtheproblem—atthedry-cleaner's.2023/1/113Ifthelabeldoesnotspecifically特定的,明確的state“Dry-clean.”mostdry-cleanerswillnotacceptthegarment.Theydonotwanttheliability責任,義務forusingthewrongcleaningmethodonagarment.Somefirmsarewillingtowashthegarment,butsomedonothavethenecessaryequipment.2023/1/114LAUNDERINGLaunderingalsousesasolvent,adetergent,andmechanicalactiontoremovesoil.Thebasicprocessinvolvesprespottingtoremovestains污點.washingtoremovesoil,extractiontoremovewater,anddrying.Someitemsrequirepressingorironingtoremovewrinklesandprovideacrispfinishtothefabric.Lunderingisperformedinthehome,inself-servicecommercialorcoin-operated(投幣自動)laundries,andinprofessionalservicelaundries.2023/1/115Theequipmentandproceduresforhome-launderingandcoin-operatedlaunderingareverysimilar.Theprocessandchemicalsusedinprofessionalservicelaunderingaresomewhatdifferent,buttheprinciplesofthecleaningprocessremainthesame.Thefollowingsectionsdescribehomelaundering.2023/1/116ProcessBothmachineandhandwashingareusedtoremovesoilfromtextileproducts.Ineitherprocess,themosteffectivemethodofcleaningistoprespottoremovestains,dissolvethesoapordetergentinthewater,addthesoiledtextilestothewashliquor,andthenprovidethemechanicalactiontoremovethesoil,Itiscommonpracticetocallthisfirstpartoftheprocesswashing;theprocessofextractingandremovingthedetergentwithasecondwaterbathiscalledrinsing.2023/1/117Thesequenceofwater,detergent,andloadisreferredtoastheorderofaddition.Addingthewaterfirstprovidessomeprotectionfromruining破壞,滅亡alaundryloadbyusingwaterthatcontainsrust鐵銹,生銹.mud.orothercoloringmaterialsthatsometimesappearinthewatersupply.Thedetergentisaddedtothewatertoallowoneoftheingredients成分,因素inthedetergent,thebuilder增潔劑,toreactwiththecalciumandmagnesiumsaltsinthewaterandreducethewaterhardness.Thecleaningagentsinthedetergentarethenabletodoabetterjobofremovingsoilwhenthelaundryloadisadded.2023/1/118Afterthewashingcyclehasbeencom-pleted,theloadisrinsedoneormoretimestoremoveanyremainingdetergentandsoil.Theexcesswaterisextracted,andtheitemsaredried.Severaldryingprocessesareincludedincare-labelingterminology術語:tumbledry轉筒干燥.dripdry滴干,linedry懸掛.anddryflat平鋪.2023/1/119Tumbledrymeanstomachinedry.Theheatinatumbledryercanbealtered改變,andtheappropriateheatfordryinganarticlemaybespecified指定,詳細說明onthecarelabel.Tumbledryingremoves-moisturequickly:thelengthoftimerequiredtodryanitemdependsonthemoisturelevelintheloadandvarieswiththefibercontentandsizeoftheloadbeingdried.Tumbledryingremoveswrinklesfromeasy-careanddurable-pressmaterialsandleavesfabricswithasofterhandthanotherdryingprocedures.2023/1/120Dripdrymeanstohangtheproductdrippingwet.withorwithouthandshaping休整andsmoothing.Thelengthoftimerequiredforaproducttodripdrydependsonthefibercontentoftheitemandtheairtemperatureandmoisturelevel.Theprocessdoesnotuseanymethodofmechanicallyextractingwaterfromtheload,sowrinklesarekeptataminimum.Theweightofthewaterprovidessomesurfacesmoothingasitstretchesthefabric.2023/1/121Inlinedrying,waterismechanicallyextractedfromthefabricbyhandwringing擰絞orthecentrifugalforce離心力ofamachine.leavingadampfabric.Thefabricisthenhungfromalineorbarlocatedeitherinsideoroutdoors.Linedryingisusuallymendedwhentumbledryingwouldproduceexcessiveshrinkageinaproduct.2023/1/122Dryflatmeanstolayouthorizontallyfordrying.Mostinstructionstodryflatincludeadditionalinformation,suchas“Block防止toreshapetooriginaldimensions”or“Removewaterbyblotting吸withatowel."2023/1/123WashingMachinesTwomajortypesofwashingmachinesaremanufactured:top-loadingandfront-loading.MostmachinesusedintheUnitedStatesaretop-loadingmachines,whichuseanagitator(攪拌器)mountedinthecenterofaperforatedbaskettoproducethemechanicalaction.Front-loadingmachines,whichareusedmorefrequentlyinEurope,usetherotatingbasket,thewater,andtheloadtoproducethemechanicalaction.Thebaskethasbaffles(障礙)atintervalsarounditssidesandismountedwiththeopeninginfront.Itrevolves,liftingtheloadanddroppingitintothedetergentsolution.2023/1/124WaterThehardnessofthewater,itstemperature,andthelevelofwaterinawashingmachineaffectwashingefficiency.Waterhardnessisdeterminedbytheamountofcalciumormagnesiumsaltsdissolvedinthewater.Thesaltsmaybecarbonates碳酸鹽,sulfates硫酸鹽.orchlorides氯化物.Hardnessisexpressedasequivalentunitsofcalciumcarbonate—regardlessofthemineralsource—intermsofgrains（格令，重量的最小單位，０.０６５克，１／７０００磅）pergallon（加侖＝４.５４６升(g/g)orpartspermillion(ppm).(Multiplythenumberofgroinspergallonby17.1togetpartspermillion.)2023/1/125水的硬度最初是指鈣、鎂離子沉淀肥皂的能力。水的總硬度指水中鈣、鎂離子的總濃度，其中包括碳酸鹽硬度(即通過加熱能以碳酸鹽形式沉淀下來的鈣、鎂離子，故又叫暫時硬度)和非碳酸鹽硬度(即加熱后不能沉淀下來的那部分鈣、鎂離子，又稱永久硬度)。

硬度的表示方法尚未統(tǒng)一，目前我國使用較多的表示方法有兩種：一種是將所測得的鈣、鎂折算成CaO的質量，即每升水中含有CaO的毫克數表示，單位為mg·L-1；另一種以度(°)計：1硬度單位表示10萬份水中含1份CaO(即每升水中含10mgCaO)，1°＝10ppmCaO。這種硬度的表示方法稱作德國度。

【工業(yè)用水和生活飲用水對水的硬度的要求】我國生活飲用水衛(wèi)生標準規(guī)定以CaCO3計的硬度不得超過450mg·L-1。

2023/1/126Waterrangingfrom1to60ppmisconsideredsoft;61to120ppmismoderatelyhard:121to180ishard;andabove180isveryhard.Mostwaterrangesfrom50to500ppm.Waterabove125to135ppmhardnessprobablyneedstohetreatedwithawatersofteningunit.Thelocalwaterdepartmentcanprovideinformationonwaterhardnessinthearea:orsamplescanbeanalyzedbycompaniesthatsellwatersofteners.2023/1/127Watertemperatureisadirecteffectonsoilremoval,colorfastness,dimensionalstability,wrinkling,anddurabilityoffabricfinishes.UsingtheFTCstandardtermsforbothmachinewashingandhandwashing,coldwateristhesametemperaturesettingasthecoldwatertap水龍頭,upto29°C(85°F):warmwaterisinitially32to43°C(90to110°F):andhotwatertemperaturemaybeashighas66°C(150°F).TheAATCC-ASTMspecialjointcommitteeonlaundrypracticeshasestablished16°C(60°F)asverycoldwater;27°C(80°F)ascold;4l°C(105°F)aslukewarm（溫熱）;49°C(120°F)aswarm;and60°C(l40°F)ashot.2023/1/128Coldwaterismendedforenergyconservation,removalofsomestains,andpro-tectionofsomedyesandfinishes.Forbestresults,avoidcold-watertemperatureslowerthan27°C(80°F)andusedetergentsandotherlaundryadditivesspeciallyformulated闡明foruseincoldwater.Somegranular(粒狀的，顆粒的)detergentdonotcompletelydissolveincoldwater,andsomebleachesarenoteffectiveincoldwater.2023/1/129Hotwaterismendedforitemsheavilysoiledwithoilyorgreasy油污，油脂的stains.WhitecottonfabricsandblendscontainingcottonarefrequentlywashedwithhotwatertomaintaintheirwhitenessFabricscontainingpolyesterthathaveaccumulatedexcessivebodyoilsmayrespondwelltoahot-waterwash.Hotwatermaybeeffectiveinreducingcontamination(污染，污穢)fromfungi（真菌類）andbacteria,butaddingchlorinebleachortumbledrying-athightemperaturesmaybejustaseffective.Donotusehotwaterifadifferentsettingisindicatedbythecarelabel;ifnowatertemperatureisspecified,hotwatermaybeused.2023/1/130DetergentsDetergent,initsbroadestsense,isacleansingagent,thus,soaps,aswellassyntheticdetergents,aretechnicallydetergents.Thecommonpracticeistoreservethetermdetergentforsyntheticdetergent.Itmaybeusedtodescribeeitherthesurface-activeagent(surfactant表面活性劑)orthetotalproductusedtosoftenwaterandremovesoil.Detergentsareavailableinliquidandgranular顆粒,orpowder,forms.Theirchemicalcompositionsvarybutthemajoractiveingredients活性組分，有效成分arethesurfactant,thebuilder(增潔劑，增效劑),fluorescentwhiteningagents熒光增白劑orbluingagents（蘭色漂白劑）,andanti-redeposition沉淀，防止再沾污agents.Alistoftheingredientsinadetergentisusuallyprovidedonitscontainer.2023/1/131Thesurfactantisawettingagentthatlowersthesurfacetensionofwater.Ithasahydrophobicendandahydrophylicend.whichloosensanddispersesthesoil,controlsthesuds(肥皂水，泡沫)level,andisthebasic“cleaningagent”inthedetergent.Linearalkylbenzenesulfonate(LAS線性烷基苯磺酸鹽

)isthemostwidelyusedsurfactant.2023/1/132Thebuildersoftensthewaterbyreactingwiththehardnessionsorminerals,helpsthesurfactantdispersethesoil,andbuffers緩沖thedetergentsolutioninthealkalineregion.Themostfrequentlyusedbuilderisphosphate.（磷酸鹽）2023/1/133Phosphates磷酸鹽havebeencondemned責難，宣告有罪bysomethreateningtotheenvironment.Thephosphatesindetergentshavebeencitedasthecauseofexcessivealgae(藻類，海藻)growthinlakesandstreams,whichcauseseutrophication(營養(yǎng)不良),orlossdissolvedoxygen,andendangerswaterlife.Severalareasofthecountryhavebanned禁止，取締theuseofphosphateinlaundrydetergents.

Non-phosphatebuildersincludecitrates檸檬酸鹽,carbonates碳酸鹽andzeolites沸石.Nitrilotriacetate三醋酸鹽(NTA)hasbeused,butwasdiscontinued2023/1/134Fluorescentwhiteningagents,oropticalbrighteners.areusedtocreateanopticalillusion錯覺幻想thatfabricsarewhiterorbrighter.Theseproductsareorganicchemicalsthatadheretothefabricandarecumulative(累積的，附加的),sofabricsexhibitincreasedfluorescenceoveranumberofwashings.Thepresenceofsuchbrightenersiseasilydetectedwithablacklightinadarkenedroom.Somedetergentscontainabluingagent增白劑tomakeayellow-whitefabriclookblue-white.Thebluingagentsnowavailableareusuallyfugitive(臨時的，附加的)bluetints色彩.2023/1/135BleachTypically,bleachesarechemicalagentsusedtoremovestainsfromfabrics,althoughsomechemicalreducing還原agentsactuallyremovecolor.AccordingtotheFTCdefinitions.thetwomajortypesofbleacharechlorineandnonchlorine.Theactiveingredient有效組分inmostchlorinebleachesisa5perc