FacilitatingaCircularEconomyforWorkshopMayCertaincommercialentities,equipment,ormaterialsmaybeidentifiedinthisdocumentinordertodescribeanexperimentalprocedureorconceptadequately.SuchidentificationisnotintendedtoimplyrecommendationorendorsementbytheNationalInstituteofStandardsandTechnology,norisitintendedtoimplythattheentities,materials,orequipmentarenecessarilythebestavailableforthepurpose.PublicationsintheSP1500subseriesareintendedtocaptureexternalperspectivesrelatedtoNISTstandards,measurement,andtesting-relatedefforts.Theseexternalperspectivescancomefromindustry,academia,government,andothers.ThesereportsareintendedtodocumentexternalperspectivesanddonotrepresentofficialNISTpositions.Theopinions,recommendations,findings,andconclusionsinthispublicationdonotnecessarilyreflecttheviewsorpoliciesofNISTortheUnitedStates

ExecutiveTextileproductionhasincreaseddramaticallyoverrecentdecades,particularlywiththeriseof‘fastfashion’.Simultaneously,increasedproductionofsynthetic,fossil-basedfiber(e.g.,polyester,nylon)duetotheircost-efficiencyandperformancecharacteristics(e.g.,stretch,durability,shrinkresistance)hasresultedinalargevolumeofsyntheticfibersinthemarketplace.Thevaluechainoftextilesischaracterizedbyverticaldis-integrationandglobaldispersionofsuccessiveprocessesthatspanseveralindustriesincludingagriculture(naturalfibers),petrochemical(syntheticfibers),manufacturing,distributionlogistics,andretail[1].Inthecurrentlineareconomicmodel,textileproductsareproduced,used,anddisposed.Infact,itisestimatedthatintheU.S.amere15%ofdiscardedclothingandtextilesarecollectedforreuse,recycling,ordowncycling,whiletheremainderissentforlandfillandincineration[2].Thisrepresentsnotonlyatremendouslossofeconomicandmaterialvalue,butalsohasseveresocialandenvironmentalimpacts.Acirculareconomy(CE)approachaimstoextendthelifeoftextileproductsthroughreuseandrepairandkeepend-of-life(EoL)materialsintheeconomythroughrecycling.TransitioningtoaCEis,therefore,essentialtoreducepressureonnaturalresources,createdomesticandsustainablegrowthandjobs,andtherebyensureourNation’ssecurityandeconomicprosperity.However,severalchallengesfacetheadoptionofacirculareconomyfortextiles.InSeptember2021,TheU.S.NationalInstituteofStandardsandTechnology(NIST)heldathree-dayworkshopentitled“FacilitatingaCircularEconomyforTextiles”aimedatidentifyingspecificchallengesandneedstoovercomethosebarriers.Nearly150stakeholdersparticipatedintheeventincludingbrands/manufacturers,recyclers,non-profitorganizations,industryassociations,andresearcherswhodiscussedthecurrentstate,bottlenecks,andopportunitiesforcircularity.ThecurrenttextilesrecoverysystemintheU.S.includescollection,sorting,grading,andtosomeextent,recycling.Thatsaid,amajorityofthe15%oftextileproductscollectedareexportedtolow-incomeregionsforresale,althoughthereisskepticismregardingthesustainabilityandbenefitofthispractice.Whileseveralmethodsofrecyclingexist,theyareatdifferentstagesofmaturityandfacemanybarriers.Keychallengesfacingthecurrentsystemidentifiedintheworkshopinclude:Infrastructureandsystemsforcollectionofwastetextilesarenotwellestablishedanddonotsupportconsistent,convenient,widespreadcollectionofthequantityandquality(clean,dry)oftextilesneededtoretainvalue.Sortingandgradingoftextilesrelyonexpensivemanuallabor,eventhoughitisnotpossibletovisuallyidentifyfibercomposition.Noharmonizedsortingstandardsorcriteriaexist,challengingdownstreammarkets.Commercial-scalerecyclingprocessesfortextilesarefiber-typedependent,requirepure,blends).Separationofblendsandremovalofdyes,additives,andfinishes(e.g.,functionalcoatings)oftenrequiresorgenerateshazardoussubstancesthatrequireproperdisposal.Limitedrecyclingprocessesexistforselectfibertypes.Textilecircularityisnoteconomicalinthecurrentsystem.Large-scalereuse,repair,andrecyclingishinderedbyhightransportation,labor,andprocessingcostsanddecreasingqualityandcostofnewproducts.Toaddressthesechallengesandimprovethesustainabilityandcircularityofthetextilesindustryrequiresaharmonized,systems-level,collaborativeapproach.Severalopportunitiesforadvancementwereidentifiedintheworkshop,includingthefollowing:

[1]。在當(dāng)前線性經(jīng)濟(jì)模式下，紡織品被生產(chǎn)、使用和丟棄。事實(shí)上，據(jù)估計(jì)，在美國(guó)只15的廢棄服裝和紡織品被收集用于再利用、回收或降級(jí)，而其余部分則被送往填埋和焚燒循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)（CE）方法旨在通過(guò)再利用和維修來(lái)延長(zhǎng)紡織品的使用壽命，并通過(guò)回收將報(bào)廢（EoL）材料留在經(jīng)濟(jì)中。因此，向循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)轉(zhuǎn)型對(duì)于減少對(duì)自然資源的壓力、創(chuàng)造國(guó)內(nèi)和可持續(xù)循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)面臨著一些挑戰(zhàn)。20219（NIST）舉辦了一場(chǎng)為150美國(guó)當(dāng)前的紡織品回收系統(tǒng)包括收集、分類(lèi)、分級(jí)和在某種程度上進(jìn)行回收。然而，收集的15%的紡織品產(chǎn)品中有大部分被出口到低收入地區(qū)進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)售，盡管對(duì)此做法的可持續(xù)性和效識(shí)別出當(dāng)前系統(tǒng)面臨的關(guān)鍵挑戰(zhàn)包括：是必要的。 Increaseddatacollectionandaccess.Significantdatagapsexistthroughoutmaterial,product,market,andsystemlevels,fosteredbyagenerallackoftransparencyacrosstheindustry.Publiclyavailabledatabases,registriesandrepositoriesneedtobedevelopedfollowingFAIRdataprinciplesoffindability,accessibility,interoperability,andreusability.Strategiesneedtobeadvancedthatsupporttransparencywhileprotectingproprietaryinformation.valuechainandlifecycleofproducts.Suchstrategiescouldincludedigitalproductidentificationthatprovidesaccesstothedataneededtosupportcircularpathways.cellulosic/polyesterfibers(e.g.,elastane),whicharecurrentlydifficulttorecycle.Brandsplayanintegralroleandcanimprovecirculartextilesthroughproductdesign,recycledcontentrequirements,aswellasalternativebusinessesmodels(e.g.,takebackprogramsforrepair,resell,orgarmentrenting).Industrystandardscanestablishrequirementsandconsistencyforproducts,feedstocks,principles,andprocesses.Examplesofareasinneedofstandardsdevelopmentincludemonitoring.CEstandardsshouldbeharmonizedandinteroperable.extendedproducerresponsibility.Educationandoutreachacrossallagesandsectorsofthepopulationisneededtosupportsustainableconsumption,productlifeextension(e.g.,throughrepairordonationandthrift),andawarenessofpathwaysforunwantedproducts.Researchneedsincludeeconomicassessmentofcurrentandpotentialdomesticstudies;microfiberidentification,quantification,andsourcereduction;andseparationsscienceofblendsandrecyclingofcurrentlyunrecyclablefibertypes.Collaborationandincreasedcommunicationacrossindustrialsectorsandthroughoutthevaluechainisnecessarytounderstanddifferentdimensionsandrecognizethediverseperspectivesandneedsofvariousstakeholders.

FAIR技術(shù)發(fā)展以改進(jìn)分揀?紡織品的高速自動(dòng)化分揀系統(tǒng)。還需要開(kāi)發(fā)混合纖維以及多材料組件（例如，地毯）的分離方法。先進(jìn)的回收工藝開(kāi)發(fā)，特別是針對(duì)低價(jià)值紡織品和非纖維素/滌綸纖維（例如，氨綸），纖維目前難以回收。收集、回收原料、可持續(xù)采購(gòu)以及微纖維測(cè)試和監(jiān)測(cè)。CECE，包括經(jīng)濟(jì)激勵(lì)、公共采購(gòu)、廢（例如，通過(guò)維修或捐贈(zèng)和二手交易）NISTcouldsupporttheneedsandopportunitiesidentifiedabovethroughthedevelopment

NIST

料與分離科學(xué)、經(jīng)濟(jì)評(píng)估和數(shù)字跟蹤與可追溯性。NIST

出過(guò)渡到高度優(yōu)化分類(lèi)系統(tǒng)和材料循環(huán)性的時(shí)間表和路徑。此外，NISTTextilesRoadmap:Aclearplanmappingoutthetimelineandpathtotransitiontohighlyoptimizedsortingsystemsandmaterialscircularity.Further,NISTiswell-suitedtoserveasaconvenerofthewiderangeofstakeholdersincludedinthetextilesCE,bothpublicandprivate,andacrossthesocialandtechnicaldisciplines.

ListofCircularCarbondioxideDesignforDoitExtendedproducerEuropeanGreenhouseMunicipalsolidwasteNear-fieldNationalInstituteofStandardsandQuickResearchandExecutive Executive ... 合 協(xié)調(diào)通信和系 FAIR數(shù)據(jù)和信息交 TheRoleof & TableofExecutive Listof CurrentStatusofCircularityintheTextile Textiles Fast Sortingand Reuseand Plasticsvis-à-vis TheRoleof EndMarket TheRoleof 參考文 附錄A：研討會(huì)議 ... TheNationalInstituteofStandardsandTechnology(NIST)initiatedaCircularEconomy(CE)programin2019tocoordinateNISTresourcestosupporttheNation’sneedtotransitionawayfromalinear–take,make,use,waste–economicmodeltowardoneinwhichmaterialsrepeatedlycyclewithintheeconomy.ForNIST,thisinvolvesinter-agencycollaboration,identificationofexternalstakeholderneeds,andinnovationsinmeasurementsandstandardsthatenabledecreaseddependenceofeconomicactivityontheconsumptionofvirginresources.TheNISTprogramdefinesacirculareconomyasaneconomywhichaimstokeepatomsandmoleculescyclingwithintheeconomyandoutofunwantedsinks(e.g.,land,air,andwatersystems).Thisnecessitatesatransitionawayfromthecurrentlineareconomicmodeltowardaregenerativemodelbasedonprinciplesofmaterialcircularityanddesigningoutwasteandpollution.Acirculareconomythereforeentailsextendingthelifeofproductsandmaterialsforaslongaspossible.Thisisperformedthroughdesignfordurability,reuse,repair,andremanufacturing,aswellasrecoveringrisksposedbyresourcedepletion,unmanageddisposal,adverseenvironmentalimpacts,andsocialandenvironmentalinjusticewhilecreatingvalueandnewbusinessopportunities.Initially,NIST’sCEprogramfocusedonpolymersduetotheincreasingawarenessandscaleofplasticleakagetotheenvironment,therapiddevelopmentofalternativepolymertypes(e.g.,bio-basedpolymers)aswellastheadvancementofchemicalrecyclingstrategies.ThedirectrelationshipbetweenplasticsandtextilesleadtotheexploratoryworkontextilesintheCEandtheworkshopdiscussedherein.OthernascentareasincludedinNIST’sCEprograminclude‘high-tech’productsincludingsolarpanels,electronics,batteries(workshophostedJanuary2021[3]),concrete(futuretopic),andbiomass(e.g.,foodwaste;futuretopic).NISThasexpertiseinseveralareasthatwillcontributetowardthefieldofcirculartextiles,includingmaterials,chemicalandbiologicalsciences,referencematerialdevelopment,sortingandidentificationtechnologies,datarepositoriesandsupportfordatastandards,andlifecycleassessmenttools.WhileotherFederalpartnersareinvestinginthisarea,NISTisuniquelypoisedtoprovidethemeasurementandstandardscapabilitiesthatareneededtopromotewidespreadadoptionofthetechnologiesdeveloped.Additionally,theU.S.hasthecapabilitytocreatearobustcirculareconomy,butlacksanyunifiedinfrastructureforcollecting,sorting,identifying,andtransportingwastestreams.NISTcanaddresstheseareaswithappropriateattentiontostakeholdercriticalpartners.WorkshopTobetterunderstandtheneedstoovercomekeychallengesandNIST’sroleinthisarea,NISTheldavirtualworkshopentitled“FacilitatingaCircularEconomyforTextiles”onSeptember21-23,2021.Thepurposeoftheworkshopwastoconvenestakeholdersassociatedwithtextiles,wastemanagement,andassociatedindustriestoidentifykeychallengesfacingacirculareconomyfortextilesaswellasneededadvancementstoovercomethosebarriers.Participantsincludednon-governmentalorganizations.Workshopplanningandorganizationinvolvedoutreachtostakeholderstoidentifycoreareasofinterest.Theresultingagendaincludedthreeplenarypresentations,sixtopic-specificsessions,andthreediscussionsessions.Eachsessionincludedaseriesofpresentationsbyexpertsonagiven

NISTNIST過(guò)設(shè)計(jì)耐用性、可重復(fù)使用、可維修和可再制造，以及通過(guò)回收在產(chǎn)品生命周期結(jié)束（EoL）時(shí)CENISTCE[NISTNIST和運(yùn)輸廢物流的基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施。NIST topicfollowedbyaquestion-and-answersession.Theplenarypresentersincludedatextilesrecyclingconsultant,an“EcoFashion”innovatorandeducator,andaprofessorspecializinginsustainabletextilesystems.Intotal,theworkshopbroughttogetherapproximately150participantsincluding30speakers.Theworkshopagendaandspeaker/participationlistareprovidedinAppendicesAandB,respectively.Additionally,AppendixEprovidesalistofCEresourcescompiledthroughouttheworkshop.Followingaretheplenary,sessions,anddiscussionstopics.Currentlandscape,bottlenecks,andcriticalSessionChallengeswithcollection,reuse,andrepairofBrandresponsibilityandbestDiscussionData,Standards,andReuse,Repair,andThisworkshopreportsummarizesthepresentationsandbreakoutgroupdiscussionsthattookplaceatthisevent.Theviewpointoftheexpertsattendingtheworkshoparepresentedhere.TheymaynotreflecttheviewsofthebroadercommunityorNIST.CurrentStatusofCircularityintheTextileThissectionaimstodefinetextilematerialsandproductsinconjunctionwiththeirrateofproductionandresultingwastegeneration.TextilesTextilesareabroadcategoryofflexiblematerialsmadethroughspinningrawfibersintolongandtwistedlengthsthatareinterlockedintobundlesofyarnsorthreadsandwoven,knitted,matted,orotherwiseboundtogetherintofabrics[4].Fibersgenerallyarecategorizedbytheirchemicalorigin,fallingintotwoclassifications:naturalandmanmade/manufactured/syntheticfibers.Figure1providestheclassificationoffibersbasedonorigin.15030ABECE消費(fèi)者挑戰(zhàn)和機(jī)遇 Session促進(jìn)紡織品循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)的跨界工具? 的挑戰(zhàn)? 紡織品機(jī)械和化學(xué)回收的挑戰(zhàn)? 紡織品的環(huán)境影響?品牌責(zé)任和最佳實(shí)踐 法律和監(jiān)管障礙和機(jī)Discussion數(shù)據(jù)、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)和術(shù)語(yǔ)? 維修和回收? NIST。Figure1:Classificationbyfibertype(adaptedfrom[5,Textilesarecomprisedofsinglefibertypesorablendoftwoormorefibertypesdependingonthedesiredproductcharacteristics(stretch,stainand/orwaterresistance,durability,expense,etc.).Manyproductsutilizetextiles,andseveral(e.g.,mattresses)havedevelopedindividualsupplychainsandmanagementprogramsatEoL.Forthisreason,textilesinthisreportreferstothoseusedinclothingandapparel,outdoorequipment(e.g.,tents),homeandhospitality(e.g.,towels,linens,etc.),upholsteryfabrics,stuffedtoys,aswellaspost-industrialtextilessuchasmanufacturerclippings,overstock,deadstock,off-spec,andreturns.TextilesThetextileindustryisacomplicatedmanufacturingindustryduetoitsfragmentedandheterogeneousnaturedominatedbysmallandmediumenterprises(SMEs)[7].Inthecurrentlinearmodel(Figure2),thevaluechainoftextilesiscomprisedofsuccessiveprocesseswhichspanseveralindustriesincludingagriculture(naturalfibers),petrochemicals(syntheticfibers),aswellasmanufacturing,distributionlogistics,andretail[1].Thisglobaldispersionanddis-integrationchallengescircularity,asitthwartseffortstoimproveconsistencyandharmonizationacrossthetextilesindustry.Figure2:Currentvaluechainoftextiles(usedwithpermissionfromEoL（產(chǎn)品生命周期結(jié)束）開(kāi)發(fā)了獨(dú)立的供應(yīng)鏈和管理計(jì)劃。因此，本報(bào)告中提到的紡織品是指用紡織工業(yè)由于其分散和異質(zhì)的特點(diǎn)而成為一個(gè)復(fù)雜的制造業(yè)，主要由中小企業(yè)（SMEs）[7]主導(dǎo)。在當(dāng)前的線性模式（2）中，紡織品的產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈由一系列跨越多個(gè)行業(yè)（包括農(nóng)業(yè)（天然纖3：按纖維類(lèi)型劃分的紡織品生產(chǎn)增長(zhǎng)和世界總?cè)丝诳倲?shù)（[1]許可使用3：按纖維類(lèi)型劃分的紡織品生產(chǎn)增長(zhǎng)和世界總?cè)丝诳倲?shù)（[1]許可使用6070[9,1]60品等用途[1]4.2%[10],814%[11]。109.9158.4[12]。其他主要的紡織品和服裝生產(chǎn)國(guó)包括印度、土耳其、韓國(guó)、[1]90[13]。聯(lián)合國(guó)可持3[14]。這種生產(chǎn)上的全球轉(zhuǎn)移導(dǎo)致了供應(yīng)鏈的復(fù)雜性和透明度的降低，因?yàn)楣?yīng)鏈的每個(gè)步驟[1]?？偠灾徔椘泛头b行業(yè)是全世界經(jīng)濟(jì)的主要貢獻(xiàn)者，估計(jì)3[8]。Textileproductionhasincreaseddramaticallyoverthelasttwodecades,particularlywiththeriseof‘fastfashion’.Figure3displaysthegrowthinglobaltextileproductionbyfibertypeinrelationtopopulationgrowth.BasedontheFigure,itisapparentthatfiberproductionincreasedsignificantlyinthelate1990s,irrespectiveofpopulationgrowth,whichremainedconstant.Thissignifiesanincreaseofpercapitaproduction,whichisoftenattributedtoglobaleconomicdevelopmentandexpansionofhigherlivingstandards.Figure3:Growthintextileproductionbyfibertypeandtotalworldpopulation(usedwithpermissionfrom[1])Whileproductionofcotton,wool,andcellulosicshasremainedfairlystableoverthedecades,productionofsynthetics,especiallypolyester,hasincreasedtremendously.Itisestimatedthattoday60%ofclothingand70%ofhouseholdtextilesarecomprisedofsyntheticfibers,andthistrendisexpectedtoincreaseintothefutureasconsumersinemergingeconomiesadoptWesternlifestylesandattire[9,1].Currently,60%ofglobalfiberproducedisdestinedforthefashionindustry,theotheruses[1].TheUnitedStates,whichrepresentsonly4.2%oftheglobalpopulation[10],nowaccountsforapproximately8%ofglobalfiberproductionand14%ofglobalend-usedemand[11].Alongwiththegrowingproductionoftextilestherehasbeenaglobalshiftoftextileandapparelandlaborcosts.Chinanowdominatestheproductionmarket,annuallyexportinganestimated$109.9billionoftextilesgenerally,and$158.4billionofapparelspecifically[12].OthermajortextileandgarmentproducingcountriesincludeIndia,Turkey,SouthKorea,Bangladesh,andVietnam[1].Morethan90%ofapparelsoldintheU.S.isnowimportedfromothercountries[13].TheUnitedNationsAllianceonSustainableFashionreportsthattheclothingandtextileindustrytodayemploys300millionpeopleworldwideacrossthevaluechain,manyofthemwomen[14].Thisglobalshiftinproductionhasledtoincreasedcomplexityandreducedtransparencyofsupplychainsaseachstepofthesupplychainoftenoccursinadifferentcountry[1].Altogether,thetextileandclothingindustryisamajorcontributortoeconomiesaroundtheworldandisestimatedtobeworthwellover$3trillion[8].

FastTheincreasedfiberproductionshownbytheinflectionpointinthelate1990sinFigure3islikelyduetotheriseoffastfashion.Taxesonimports/exportsdiminishedatthattime,andmanufacturingmovedtocountrieswithlowerlaborcostsandreducedregulatoryrequirements[15].Thetermfastfashionthereforedescribesthemassmanufacturingandmarketingoflow-costclothingthatisquicklytransferredfromadesignconcepttoretailstores.Itisthus‘fast’inseveralways:therateofproduction,thenumberoffashioncycles,delivery,consumers’decisiontopurchase,andtherateatwhichgarmentsarewornanddisposed[16].Workshopspeakersprovidedseveralstatisticsregardingfastfashion,including:FastFashionClaimsStatedinTraditionally,4fashioncyclesproducedperyear,todayfastfashionproduces50+

31990[15][16]。研討會(huì)發(fā)言者提供了關(guān)于快速時(shí)尚的幾項(xiàng)統(tǒng)計(jì)數(shù)據(jù)，包括：

**：?450+?100? 55012100billionitemsofclothingareproducedeach

的數(shù)量 平Fashionbrandsproducealmost2xtheamountofclothingtodaythantheydidbeforetheyear2000Onaverage,consumerswearagarmentseventimesbeforegettingridofSocialmediahasalsobeenadriveroffastfashion,speedingtherateatwhichtrendscomeintostylethroughincreasedvisibility.Fromabusinessmodelperspective,fastfashionhasbeenexceptionallysuccessful,however,ithascausednegativesocialimpacts,particularlyontheworkforce,andhasresultedinasituationwhereinexpensiveproductsdriveunsustainableconsumptionbehaviorandultimatelyfuelsacultureofconsumptionanddisposal.Additionally,fastfashionproductstendtobelowerinquality,andthereforeareoftennotsuitableforresale,repair,orrepurposingintoalternativetextileproducts(e.g.,wipingrags).Asaresult,theoverproductionandconsumptionoflow-cost,low-qualityclothinghassignificantsocialandenvironmentalimplications.TextileWasteTextilewasteincludesclothingandapparel,homeandhospitalitytextiles,contracttextiles,uniformsandworkwear,upholsteryfabrics,aswellasmanufacturerorretaileroverstock,deadstock,off-spec,damages,andreturns[17].Distinctionsareoftenmadebetweencategoriesoftextilewastegeneration,suchasthefollowing: Wastegeneratedbeforeitreachestheconsumer,i.e.,during

TextileWaste后工業(yè)：manufacturingprocess.Oftencalledpre-consumerwaste[18].Tendstobethecleanestandeasieststreamofwhichidentifymaterial

[18]。

Wastegeneratedbytheconsumerafteruse.Highestvolumestreambutincludesblendsofallfibertypesandoftencontaincontaminants. Post-consumertextileswornbygeneralconsumersorusedinresidentialsettings andindustrial,commercial,andinstitutional(ICNI)applications*Claimsstatedinthistablewerepresentedbyworkshopparticipants,havenotbeenverifiedbyNIST,andarenottheofficialviewoftheU.S.Government.

消費(fèi)者后 產(chǎn)生廢 edbytheconsumerafteruse.Highestvolume 非住宅 用于職業(yè)制服、醫(yī)院床單以及工業(yè)、商業(yè)和機(jī)構(gòu)（ICNI）應(yīng)用的消費(fèi)后紡織*NIST 過(guò)去二十年，紡織品廢棄物的產(chǎn)生速率顯著增加，這與快時(shí)尚趨勢(shì)一致。根據(jù)美國(guó)環(huán)保署U.SEPA）的數(shù)據(jù)，2018（MSW）（過(guò)去二十年，紡織品廢棄物的產(chǎn)生速率顯著增加，這與快時(shí)尚趨勢(shì)一致。根據(jù)美國(guó)環(huán)保署U.SEPA）的數(shù)據(jù)，2018（MSW）（1700），2000[19]80%20（4）相比，這是一個(gè)巨大的增幅。按人均計(jì)算，同期紡織品廢棄物增長(zhǎng)了55%，[17]。根據(jù)美國(guó)環(huán)保署的廢棄物統(tǒng)計(jì)數(shù)據(jù)和人口普查數(shù)據(jù)，2018103.5（47）220最終成為廢料，這代表1585收的體積通過(guò)捐贈(zèng)給二手商店或捐贈(zèng)箱收集，或通過(guò)路邊收集計(jì)劃和高店退貨（5）計(jì)，二手商店出售了約20%的紡織品捐贈(zèng)，其余部分被出售給分類(lèi)和分級(jí)人員，他們根據(jù)質(zhì)量、狀況和格式對(duì)紡織品進(jìn)行評(píng)估和分類(lèi)，以出售給適當(dāng)?shù)南掠问袌?chǎng)，例如國(guó)內(nèi)或國(guó)際市場(chǎng)的再利用轉(zhuǎn)售，制成工業(yè)廢料、填充物或次品（即由廢棄羊毛布的纖維碎屑制成的低質(zhì)量紗線或織物），或被送往處理。行業(yè)專(zhuān)家聲稱，在出口和國(guó)際銷(xiāo)售之前，有大量紡織品未經(jīng)分類(lèi)或分級(jí)[20。目1[17]Therateoftextilewastegenerationhasincreasedsignificantlyoverthelasttwodecades,inlinewithfastfashion.AccordingtoU.S.EPAdata,textilescomprised5.83%ofthetotalmunicipalsolidwaste(MSW)streamgeneratedintheU.S.in2018(roughly17milliontons),alinearincreaseof80%onapertonnagebasissince2000[19].Thisisadrasticincreasecomparedtotheoverallwastestreamwhichincreasedonly20%overthesametimeframe(Figure4).Onapercapitabasis,textilewastegrew55%overthesameperiod,indicatingthattheincreasedtextilewastegenerationisnotonlyduetopopulationgrowth[17].PertheU.S.EPA’swastestatisticsandUSCensusdata,eachAmericandiscardedanaverageof103.5pounds(47kg)oftextilesin2018.Bycomparison,theannualpercapitadiscardratesinFinlandandSwedenare37.5and53poundspercapita,respectively[15].ItmustbenotedthattheU.S.EPAdoesnottrackormeasurethevolumesoftextilessenttocharitiesforreuse,whichpotentiallycomprisesalarge,unrepresentedsegmentofthetotalvolumeofdiscardedtextiles.Additionally,insufficientdataexiststoconfidentlymeasuretextilewastegeneratedthroughdifferentsupplychainproductionstages(e.g.,fiberprocessing,textileproduction,garmentmanufacturing).Thatsaid,itisestimatedthatsomewherebetween2%to20%ofalltextilesendsuponthecuttingroomfloor,representingasignificantgenerationofpost-industrialwaste[20].Figure4:Percentchangeinabsolutetonsandtonspercapitawastegeneration2000-2018(usedwithpermissionfrom[17])ThecurrentrecoveryratefortextilesintheU.S.isapproximately15%,whiletheremaining85%ofdiscardedclothingandtextilesaresentforlandfillorincineration[2,21].Thevolumerecoveredarecollectedeitherthroughdonationtothriftstoresordonationbinsorcollectedthroughcurbsidecollectionprogramsandretailstoretakebacks(Figure5)[22].Itisestimatedthatthriftstoressellapproximately20%oftextiledonations,whiletheremainderaresoldtosortersandgraderswhoassessandsortthetextilesbasedonquality,condition,andformattobesoldtoappropriatedownstreammarkets,suchasreuse/resaleindomesticorinternationalmarkets,turnedintoindustrialrag,stuffing,orshoddy(i.e.,low-qualityyarnorfabricmadefromshreddedfiberofdiscardedwoolencloth),orsentfordisposal[17,2].Industryexpertsclaimthatthereisasignificantamountoftextilesthatdonotgetsortedorgradedbeforebeingexportedandsoldinternationally[20].Currently,lessthan1%oftextilescollectedgotofiber-to-fiberrecycling[17].Figure5:CurrentfateofusedtextilesintheUnitedStates.Questionmarksindicateflowsforwhichreliabledataareunavailable.Shoddyismadefromshreddedfibersandusedforinsulationandstuffing.Basedondatafrom[17,20,21].Exportofusedclothingtolow-incomeregionsisacommonpracticeforgarmentsthatdonothaveamarketinwealthiernations.ThemajorimportingcountriesareinAfrica,Asia,andCentralAmericaandthereisalotofdiscussionanddifferingopinionaroundthebenefitsanddetrimentsofexportingusedtextiles[17].SeveralcountriesinEasternAfricahavecollectivelybannedtheimportofusedtextilestoprotecttheirowndomestictextileindustries[23].ThecostofmanagingtextilewasteintheU.S.issignificantandincreasing.In2020,itwasestimatedthattextilecollectionanddisposalcostAmericansover$4billionbasedonaveragelandfilling/incinerationtipfeesandcollectioncosts[17].Thiscostwilllikelyincreaseastransportationcostsriseandavailablelandfillcapacityisreduced.EnvironmentalandSocialImpactofThetextileindustryisrifewithsocialandenvironmentalimpactsduetounregulatedmaterialprocessingandmanufacture,highusageofenergy,water,andchemicals,andtheleakageofpollutantstoenvironmentalsinks(air,water,soil).However,specificestimatesoftheseimpactsvarywidely,andtheunderlyingsourcesareoftendifficulttoascertain,ornotbasedonscience,actualdatacollection,orpeer-reviewedresearch,butratheranecdotalevidence,extrapolations,andassumptions.Thissectionaimstodiscusskeyenvironmentalandsocialimpactsofthetextilesindustrypresentedintheworkshop,whilealsohighlightingareaswherethisdataislackingorexhibitsdiscrepancies.于絕緣和填充。基于[17,20,21]的數(shù)據(jù)。非洲、亞洲和中美洲，圍繞出口廢舊紡織品[17]的利弊有很多討論和不同意見(jiàn)。東非的幾個(gè)國(guó)[23]。美國(guó)管理紡織廢物的成本顯著且不斷上升。2020[15]。紡織纖維作物的種植[24]。其他原材料的生產(chǎn)也有環(huán)境6[15]。紡織纖維作物的種植[24]。其他原材料的生產(chǎn)也有環(huán)境6[25]。部分紡織聚酯是從聚對(duì)苯二甲酸乙二醇酯（PET）瓶中回收的，這減少了原材料的開(kāi)采和相關(guān)氣候變化的影響，但可能不會(huì)影響其他影響，如RawAlltextilematerials,whethernaturalormanufactured,haveenvironmentalimpacts.Naturalfibers,especiallycotton,requirelargeamountsoflandforproduction.Somearguethatincreasingcottonproductionisnotpossibleduetothelackofavailablesuitableland[15].Thecultivationoftextilefibercropshasthepotentialtocompetewiththeproductionoffoodcrops,asbothsectorscompeteforarableland[24].Theproductionofotherrawmaterialsalsohasenvironmentalimplications,includingdeforestation,overgrazingofpastures,andsoilandwatercontaminationduetochemicalsandpesticides.Figure6displaystherelativeenvironmentalimpactsassociatedwithmanufacturingthemostcommonsyntheticfibersandcotton.Whilecottonproductionhaslowclimatechangeimpacts,itsproductionrequiressignificantamountsofland,water,andmineralresourcesaswellascontributestoeutrophication.Nylon,bycomparison,hasthehighestimpactperkilogramforclimatechangeandfossilresourceuse,buthaslowerimpactsintheothercategories.Asimilarcomparisoncanbemadebetweenpolyesterandcotton.Itisimportanttonotethatimpactsalsodependonthevolumeoffiberproduction.Forinstance,themanufactureofpolyesterrequireslessenergythannylon,however,itsannualproductionrateismuchhigher,thusresultinginhigheroverallimpacts[25].Aportionoftextilepolyestersarerecycledfrompolyethyleneterephthalate(PET)bottles,whichreducestheextractionofrawmaterialsandassociatedclimateimpactsbutmaynotinfluenceotherimpactsawayfromonetoanothermayonlyservetoshifttheenvironmentalburdens.Ultimately,effortsneedtofocusonreducingtheimpactsofallfibertypes.Afulllifecycleapproachisneededtoeffectivelycomparetextilefibersandproducts.Thisrequiresathoroughunderstandingregardingtherelevantflowsofmaterialsthroughoutthelifecycle.Transparentharmonizedaccountingtoolsthataresupportedbydataarealsonecessary.Duetothefragmentedanddispersednatureofthetextilesvaluechain,suchinformation,ifavailable,isdifficulttoobtain.Advancementsareneededtoimprovedatacollectionandtransparency,aswellasadvancedlifecycleanalysismethodsandtools.ClimateThetextileindustryconsistsofalargenumberofproductionandmanufacturingplantsthattogetherconsumeasignificantamountofenergy.Manyofthesefacilitiesareinregionsoftheworldwherefossilfuelsdominatetheenergysupplyandasaresultareasubstantialsourceofgreenhousegas

(GHG)emissions.Therefore,toaddressclimatechangenecessitatesreducingemissionsassociatedwithtextilesproductionanduse.ClimateclaimsreportedbyworkshopspeakersincludedtheGHGemissionsfromtextileproductiontotal1.2billiontonsofCO2Thefashionindustrycontributesaround10%ofglobalGHGemissionsTextilesisthe5thleadingindustryintermsofGHGemissionsintheEuropeanIndustryemissionsareprojectedtoincreasemorethan60%byManyoftheaboveclaimsarenotwellsupportedortheunderlyingdataarenotavailable.Forinstance,intheresourcestatingthatemissionsfromtextilesproductiontotal1.2billiontonsofCO2equivalent(CO2eq)(calculatedfortheyear2015),twosourcesareidentifiedforthiscalculation,yetneitherincludedocumentationorinformationpertinenttothiscalculationoraccesstotheunderlyingdata[26].Similarly,anotherdocumentedsourceestimatedemissionsfromtheglobalfootwearandfashionindustriesat3,990millionmetrictonsofCO2eq(3.99billionmetrictons)in2016,repre